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Fg Xr6t Specific Mods


morningbeers

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  • Member For: 15y 7m 14d

thx team,

I have decided to do absolutely nothing until she has done 10,000 klms. as its a brand spanker, any only a dirty old ford (the wheels could fall off / engine explode / car break in half for no reason) I dont want to give the dealer any reason to not assist.

once bugs are worked out and engine loosened up I will start modding her.

different opinion, my mate with a R8 Clubby VZ said I needed to belt the snot out of it from the first day I get it otherwise is would be slow - thoughts?

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  • Member For: 15y 10m 10d
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different opinion, my mate with a R8 Clubby VZ said I needed to belt the snot out of it from the first day I get it otherwise is would be slow - thoughts?

Urh, right. Because flogging an engine not long after it's been out of the factory is the best thing to do. As the dealer told my boss after he bought his 2009 BMW M3 E92, wait for atleast 5,000km before giving it a hard on, honestly, it's best to work the engine in, other than forcing it through a water hose.

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  • Formerly EGOBFXR6
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  • Member For: 16y 9m 7d
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  • Location: Perth, WA

I think what your friend means is that the car learns and adapts to the way you drive. If you baby it, it will run like a baby...If you thrash it, it will go harder, but be a lot rougher.

The ZF is known for adapting to driver styles and IMO is quite cool.

:drivingalong:

Dan

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  • No boost, no bottle, just my foot on the throttle!
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  • Member For: 20y 8m 29d
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Urh, right. Because flogging an engine not long after it's been out of the factory is the best thing to do. As the dealer told my boss after he bought his 2009 BMW M3 E92, wait for atleast 5,000km before giving it a hard on, honestly, it's best to work the engine in, other than forcing it through a water hose.

Modern motors are designed to be flogged when new.

Once a car is built at any factory, they plug in a bank of computers and put the car on a rolling road and take it to redline several times.

This shakesdown the car to make sure it is all together fine.

You should drive your car normally from the getgo. Do not "run it in" like you used to in the old days.

My car has been driven like I normally drive from the time I left some stripes out of the dealers to the 1600km it has on it now.

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So why do conrods braek, cranks snap, etc........... :blink:

I was just trying to point out that you made such a broad sweeping statement, and it kinda had some holes. Metal gets stronger with deformation to a degree. Its called work hardening or cold working. You'd know about this yeah? Shot-peening and so forth are crude examples often mentioned in the same breath as automotive components. Think old blacksmith bashing the bejesus out of a sword in the movies.

Of course metals will reach a point when they cannot withstand the stress any longer, where Considere's criterion suggests necking will begin (the ultimate tensile strength typically) and then the slippery road to fracture begins!

End brief and dodgy materials engineering lesson.

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 16y 4m 24d
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Metal gets stronger with deformation to a degree. Its called work hardening or cold working. You'd know about this yeah?

End brief and dodgy materials engineering lesson.

Sure do.

But the way djkice was explaining it, doesn't really ring true.

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