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320kw And 820nm @ 18 Psi


d rangd

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finally got the car back from bps today. was a bit bummed on the power but the torque says it all. its running an atomic engine, atomic cams, ported heads, full pw stage 3 kit (with 4in airbox, plenum, stage 3 cooler etc), highflowed standard turbo, through a turbo 400 box, 3500 stall, 4.5in dump, 5 in cat to 3 in exhaust, 800hp in tank to pw surge tank with single 044, and 60 lb injectors.

forgot to bring home the printout from storage but will get it tomorrow

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Congrates on making the 300 club mate. I'm sure you will notice the difference in power :beerchug:

But, with all of those mods, I would of thought you would of had a heap more kw's than that...that's probably why I'm not a tuner though.

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  • loitering with intent
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mate with those mods, it is running a lot of boost to make the power, what are you AFRs like ?

Stally and the turbo 400 box may be impacting the Dyno figures depending on how it was run up.

Ie which gear etc, needs to be as close as 1:1 as possible, That said the AFRs will tell the story on safety

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apparently stallys sucking about 50kw out of it. the car made the highest torque of any car tuned at bps though so that's got to mean something..the highest was a 450rwkw twin turbo ss, with 810nm. james says his higher torque readings have dropped about 200nm from his old dyno, so its probably a bit low compared to other dyno readouts going around. but a dyno reading is only relevant to cars run on the same dyno....all in all the cars built to go fast so powers not the only thing to think about. all will be well when it sees 25 pound though xD

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  • loitering with intent
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that's all spiffing, but how safe is the tune ? Personally I couldn't give a rats about laminated Dyno sheets.

I want my car making power safely. It seems you are trying to justify a dyno sheet without considering how it got there.

Even with the mods you have its still jamming plenty of boost in to make the numbers albeit shy as you say.

End of the day it's your car and your money. I'd be wanting to see the full spectrum of Dyno results if I were you.

I for one would be asking the question. What have you got to lose. FFS its a built motor , breathing well, all seems

to be done well , yet heaps of boost. Doesn't make sense to me.

Maybe one of the more mechanically minded chaps will come along and put me straight

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quite simply ive been told if I go and chuck a 2800 stall converter in there, it will make the 360-380 kw that's expected with that boost. but id rather keep the converter in there for when I do my next upgrade and take it to the track. but yeah the 9k I just spent didnt get me far in terms of kw, but its insurance for the next step. cheers

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Why would you want to loose 60rwkw? All you're doing is turning that lost power into heat for yours trans.

When choosing a converter, people sometimes forget that you'll get extra rpm - "flash". So a converter stall of 3500rpm might see a flash of 4300ish rpm right? You don't need that many RPM. It's just wasted HP. A stally of 2800rpm will get you a 3600ish rpm flash. Ample to get the turbo boosting quickly. And your going to regain about 80% of that lost power I'm betting. Do you want lower MPH and higher ET's? Keep your current converter.

Have fun and good luck with it.

Edited by straughsberry
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Pic's Of the car and engine bay. Are you going to take it to the track any time soon? I think this thing may run a bit quicker than 320rwkw suggests.

How does it drive with that stall? Liters per 100km???

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Why would you want to loose 60rwkw? All you're doing is turning that lost power into heat for yours trans.

When choosing a converter, people sometimes forget that you'll get extra rpm - "flash". So a converter stall of 3500rpm might see a flash of 4300ish rpm right? You don't need that many RPM. It's just wasted HP. A stally of 2800rpm will get you a 3600ish rpm flash. Ample to get the turbo boosting quickly. And your going to regain about 80% of that lost power I'm betting. Do you want lower MPH and higher ET's? Keep your current converter.

Have fun and good luck with it.

definately some food for thought! sounds like a lose lose to me:P I know its a very poor choice for the current turbo, but once I put the 1000hp turbo/ fuel system in, would you still recommend the smaller stall? do you need to get a complete new tune for a new stall converter?

Pic's Of the car and engine bay. Are you going to take it to the track any time soon? I think this thing may run a bit quicker than 320rwkw suggests.

How does it drive with that stall? Liters per 100km???

I should be able to get out today and get some pics and the dyno sheet..no not planning on the track soon, want to get it to where I want it first. 25psi and 450rwkw atleast. thing drives good as, but it has sh*t rubber on it and doesnt have much traction, really looking into some good street rubber for it. DEFINATLEY a no go in the wet, I have already smashed it in the wet. its got a b&m stage 3 quick shifter and I never got the cover when I bought the car, so on longer drives alot of heat comes up and the shifter gets quite hot. economys not too bad, but I dont drive it often so I dont really care. fill it up when it needs

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  • Moar Powar Babeh
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Sounds like some awesome hardware you've got there mate. But a 3" exhaust is a touch small for the power/boost level your at?

Is this the citric acid sedan on youtube pulling the monster skids?

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