Fg Speaker Replacement

[vfast]

Hey all - I know there's some really knowledgable guys on here, who I'm hoping can help me out.

I've been tossing up what to do with my G6ET, I think first stage I will replace the door speakers with Alpine type s, similar to what you have done. I've even mustered enough courage with the help of some excellent posts with pics to do it myself.

Was thinking of using the SPS-600's as a replacement.

I have some questions:

1) Would I benefit from using splits in the front (SPS-600C)? How much harder for the install given the pillar mounted tweater? What about wiring? Much benefit, or just too much fiddle for the trouble?

2) Speaker spacers - I think from other's posts that I'll need to put some mdf spaces to fit the 6.5"s. How thick do they need to be?? I've seen some pre made ones on ebay would they be suitable (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SPEAKER-MOUNTING-SPACERS-SUIT-6-1-2-SPEAKERS-SPLITS_W0QQitemZ330313670983QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item330313670983&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)

3) Since I'm going to be pulling doors trims off, my as well sound deaden them also. Does anyone have any tutorials (with pics pls) or mind giving me some words on how to do this. Do I take the brown carboard looking moulded panel from the door and replace with deader, or just go over it? I'm looking at using the cheaper alternative to Dynamat on eBAY called eDEAD (Cheers phantmxr6).

Ideally I'd like to go a couple of amps and subs also, but budget limited at the moment.

Appreciate any help you guys can offer.

My skill level:

I can solder

some basic electronics know how

like to tinker

[sicklaser]

the alpine splits dont have an "on-the-outside" pillar mount or in other words a surface mount kit. they can only be fitted by cutting big hole into a panel somewhere to flush mount

OR

get yourself some premium sound pillars with the little grills in them and mount the bare tweeter behind them.

I just realised this is for an FG. above is how you would do it for a BA/BF. not sure if it is 100% correct with the FG as I havent worked on one yet

[vfast]

Yeah the G6ET has the pillar grills, I guess the questions are. Is it worth replacing these tweeters, will the Alpines fit?

[sicklaser]

yes its worth replacing them and if they are anything like the BA/BF there is more than enough room for some alpine tweeters

[PHANTMXR6]

vfast.

If you can bear with me until early next week I should be able to supply you with some pics of my midbase drivers and tweeters up on the sail pillar.

I will also give you a bit of a run down on what I covered in noise suppression material, what is required to do the job and preparation.

[vfast]

Thanks your a champion mate.

[smicky]

Were my PM replies that bad!

Edited 12/03/09 03:27 PM by smicky

[vfast]

Not at all mate... I can continue to pester you personally if you like Just thought my question may benefit being put in the forum to aid the wider community

Has anyone used / know if we can get SecondSkin deadening in Aust?

[PHANTMXR6]

Righto here we go.

I used Alpine SPR-13S splits for the front doors and SPR-13C co-axials for the rear doors.

Mounting is the same for the front speakers and the rear.

The reason I used the factory frames for mounting my speakers is they are already placed at an angle towards the listener and not just flat on the door. A step in the right direction from Ford. Finally!!!

First up, pic of the speaker mounted to the factory speaker frame.

And view from the rear.

There was some removal of the original speaker 'guts' to get the new ones in, but no big deal if you can drive a Dremel.

The tweeter in the factory position.

I sort of cheated a bit with these. The factory tweeter mounts were so good all I had to do was remove the mounting screw from the back of it and give the factory tweeter a bit of a tug and the glue that was holding it on just popped off.

I used some heavy duty velcro for mounting the Alpine tweeters to the factory mounts on the pillars and they haven't budged. The sound is good for now as I don't have any speakers amplified yet. Just running off the factory crud, but when it's all hooked up it should be sweet.

You need to remove the side dash trim panel to be able to run the cables for the tweeters.

And tucked up under the dash, the crossovers.

Due to their size it is a bit complicated to secure them so I just used some cable ties. They are high enough to be out of the way of feet so aren't any trouble.

Noise suppression. Just the first layer with more to go on the outside of the inside of the door. If that makes sense....

Ok. Now the way to get the speakers into the frames is a bit tricky, but not too hard.

You'll notice the mdf rings I used to mount the speakers to.

First step is to remove the factory speakers from the car and gut them. You need to leave the high ridge that the original cone suspension cushion, I think it's called (help if it's not smicky ), as it is required for securing the mdf spacer rings to.

You will need to use the template from the back of the box the new speakers came in and trim it to fit inside the factory mounting frame.

Sorry, should have taken a heap of pics when I did mine but was too excited and head down ass up. You know how it gets with new toys.

Anywho, get some mounting rings made for the new speakers. I made mine out of 6mm mdf, but I think you would be better to use 10mm as it will be more sturdy. An upgrade I think I'll be making once the speakers are amplified and pumping.

The next thing you will need to do is trim the new speaker mounting tabs so they fit inside the factory mounting frame.

Again, not too hard if you can drive a Dremel.

Once this is done, drill some pilot holes and use some short-ish screws to mount the rings and the speakers.

Once that's done connect the speaker cables and refit the mounting frames.

Oh, I forgot to mention running the cable through the door jam to the crossover. It's a bit of a squeeze, but can be done.

If you need to disconnect any of the plugs in the door jam, BE VERY CAREFUL AS THE SIGNAL FOR THE SIDE IMPACT AIRBAG IS ON THE DOOR.

Easiest way to not lose any sleep is to disconnect the battery at least 15-20 minutes before you start.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Edited 15/03/09 12:21 PM by Dagabond

[smicky]

Dude - great job!

one thing... are u over the age of 55? if so 1. you can get insurance with API. 2. Its acceptable to have a dash matt....

but if your not....

FARK OFF THE DASH MATT!!!