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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

Ok just wanting to get a idea of what sort of times other Manual BA XR6 Turbo's are running.

looking for anyone who has run the 1/4 with standard IC and intake pipes.

Also some tune help with settings and functions.

I have run a best so far of 13.33 at 108mph on street tyres with average

launchs due to traction and axle tramp.

Run 1 4:38pm

25deg, 63% Humidity, 1010mB, 1879RA, (TT)39Deg

Reaction 0.813

60ft 2.245

330ft 5.820

660ft 8.735

MPH 83.92

KPH 135.06

1000ft 11.232

ET 13.331

MPH 108.15

KPH 174.05

Run 2 4:59pm

25deg, 67% Humidity, 1010mB, 1879RA, (TT)37Deg

Reaction 0.491

60ft 2.288

330ft 5.882

660ft 8.836

MPH 83.61

KPH 134.56

1000ft 11.348

ET 13.507

MPH 104.46

KPH 168.11

Slightly bogged down off line

My car has a custom tune running 12 psi of boost.

Has X-Force 3.5 exhaust

Nizpro Valve Springs And Injectors

Walbro Fuel Pump

Was a T5 but changed to a T56

Still retained the 3.45 diff.

I feel the top end was pretty crap and the 60ft ordinary to say the least.

I have noticed when taking off steady then WOT it starts building boost

at around 3000rpm and by 4000rpm comes in hard at 15psi then tapers

back to 12psi around 4500-5000rpm.

I think the Wastegate is open bleeding off boost below 3000rpm which may be

the reason of my slow 60ft times as well as the soft launchs to avoid wheel spin

and axle tramp.

Also I have noticed as the Humidity rises my MPH drops. eg my last run was at 85%

and I lost 2-3 mph. I expected this to happen.

Will be fitting HDMI 600x300x75 cooler,plazmaman plenum & Pipes, Siemen deka 60lb injectors

15psi actuator this weekend if time permits.

mate has fitted a full Plazmaman 1000hp kit and is having no problems with boost spiking.

he is running 12 psi actuator and has run 12.1 so far be it a BF F6 A6 on street rubber.

would also like to now how to get the Launch Control feature to activate

correctly as per tune file.

I have set rpm's, turn off speeds, system switch's, Axle settings, Rev and Speed Limiter settings.

Followed the SCT Manuals directions with no luck.

Asked SCT for help with not much in reply so far.

I get it working but it wont turn off while driving.

Throw your comparisments in and any tune suggestions if you can help.

  • Forged Member
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 18y 2m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

Where are you changing gear? Don't push it over 5500rpm, there's no point with the current set-up. What sort of rpm are you launching at? Your 60ft time needs to get down to 2.0 at least to net a 12 with your current mods. What clutch too?

The actuator will help it hold boost right throughout the rev range. Also, your plenum and cooler change will give you a more repeatable level of power.

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney

Mate with those mods and that much boost it should be quicker. I've got a turbo back exhaust and second CAI with 9 PSI tapering back down to 7 as stock injectors were maxing out and I've done a 13.3 with a 2.2.. 60ft 6 speed BAII standard clutch, if I had a decent clutch I could get the 60ft down to 2.00 and I think I would dip in to very high 12s (managed one 2.00 bud fried the clutch in the process).

With that much boost and a decent 60ft you should get in to 12's easily. Also did you deflate your tyres?

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

Clutch is a CI Twin plate.

I am changing gears between 5200 to 5500 just as it rolls off boost

Street tyres so not good to deflate.

They are 265x30x19 Toyo Proxy 4's which are quite a good street tyre and not cheap.

The 60ft is what is hurting the most.

I have to take off steady riding the clutch till it starts to move then release clutch and WOT.

If I give it say 3000rpm and drop the clutch from there it will stall.

Try droping clutch any harder and I end up with wheel spin and violent axle tramp.

I have to get under it and check the rear diff bush as suspect it to be flogged.

From visual it is hard to tell if it is flogged or not as the bolt and washer has it covered.

I think last time out the axle tramp wasn't as bad which maybe due to cutting the bump stops down.

Could need more cut off them still.

I am running Pedders sport lows at rear with the Pedders Xtreme adjustable coil over fronts.

Driving on the street and WOT from rollin speeds it def feels like a 12 second car.

The current tune is feeling a bit narrow in its power band as well so will be working on trying to improve it also.

Another thing which may have cost me was the fact that I was showing off a bit with 2nd gear burnouts pass the tree.

Probably heated the cooler badly.

Dule:

I know your running less boost but when is your boost starting to build and at what rpm is it at max boost and how far does it hold

max boost for.

Could you also tell me more about your mods.

Wouldn't mind getting it into a 12 before I add my Hi Po bits, but I think the cooler is also causing lots of hassle.

  • - Track Bound EVO III -
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Strapped in and holding on

Well;

I ran 11.87 on MT's with injectors, 4" dump pipe and a tune - cold weather

I also ran 12.3 on street with 40psi in them in the same state of tune above - hotter weather

Ramp the timing in early

Ramp the boost in hard early

Adjust your charge temp correction tables to suit your intercooler performance - log your charge temps on the dyno

Turn off all torque tags. You'll say there aren't any, there are.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

F6 Ute thanks, this is what I really am looking for.

I will have to be reasonably carefull how hard I do have it coming on power till

I get my new engine together.

Just want to learn the tuning first on these cars before the good engine even looks like

going in, would prefer to make any mistakes with this engine.

I had been thinking of weather of not the torque protection settings have been

bleeding off the boost.

just been a little cautious on weather to start turning them off completely.

Wouldn't mind trying to find out how far others have run safely with what

settings they have run on the torque tables.

Is it normal when if I WOT at say in forth gear 2000 - 2500rpm and I get heaps of what is sounding

like boost going out the Wastegate till it gets to around 3500 and starts to hammer.

Maybe the torque protection playing its part here.

I think I have a bit more timing in it as when I was sorting the injector values

One test run saw mid 14 AFR and didn't look like pinging at all.

But at the same time with the boost is bleeding off till 3500+ its not really loading it up hard

to cause detenation.

03XR6T

I have tried to deflate street tyres before on other tuff v8 falcons I had owned and all that happens

is they get very unstable.

You need to use drag specific tyres to run low tyre pressures. Street tyres are designed to

run at the recommended presures.

Hence if you run below recommended presure the tread wears out side edges and if run higher

presures the middle wears out.

So at low presure your tyre foot print (Tread contact) will only be using the outside edges.

Also the tyre sidewalls are not designed to run low pressure especially on low profile tyres.

I have also noticed even when I have run 35psi in my tyres it hasn't the traction it has

when run at 40psi.

I think my big skids where a part of the problem as probably getting heaps of heat soak with

the standard cooler.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

So What actual tyres you using and your 11.2 @126mph what rubber was you using.

I will evenually get MT Streets for mine once I get a hold of some 15 to 16" rims.

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