Racerx Member 111 Member For: 16y 4m 11d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 06/02/09 12:22 PM Share Posted 06/02/09 12:22 PM Having the same prob with my 06 BF Auto. Tried the usual suggestions, solenoid maintenance, checked for boost leaks, cleaned throttle body. Slight improvementChecking the forum seemed to point towards a wastegate problem, (thanks ravenhard)Here's the things I've tried to check if it's a wastgate issue.Checked hoses from turbo to solenoid, shortened the hose slightly at the turbo end as it was very loose. and replaced the hose from the solenoid to the actuator.Pulled the rear heat shield off so I could get at the wastegate. Got a bit of windshield washer hose and a compressor with a regulator, attached the hose to the top of the solenoid, and fed a bit of air to the actuator at low pressure (.5bar) to see if it moved. Found that the arm wasn't moving freely, so I sprayed it with WD40 which helped it free up and open and close freely. While you have the heatshield off you can use a mirror to look at the weld on the bush and the pivot arm to see if they're broken. Put it back together and took it for a drive, the grin factor was back. Unfortunately it didn't last and has started to get sluggish again, tried spraying it with high temp silicon, feels good again so I'll see how long that lasts , at least can let a tuner know its probably a wastegate issue . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesmuso Member 144 Member For: 17y 5m 23d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 07/02/09 02:27 AM Author Share Posted 07/02/09 02:27 AM (edited) Cheers Racerx you are a champ, I did pretty much what you said in your post this morning whilst car was cold, removed rear heatshield, found the pivot arm which goes to the front underneath canaster (Actuator I think) The pivot arm could not be moved by hand at all, but I did not put any compressed air through the boost solenoid (which is by the battery) But I sprayed Silicone lube onto the pivot point of the arm using a mirror to see what I was doing.Should I be able to manually move the waste gate pivot arm? Or will it only move with air pressure applied through the boost solenoid?I put it back together and drove it but no real difference, car comes on boost at very low rpm (from 1200-1500rpm you can hear the turbo spooling up) but feels like it is getting bugger all boost and would only go a little bit better than a na XR6 but with twice the fuel consumption 21L/100km's taking it easy......oxygen sensor problem?To take the turbo off completely do you need to heat up the nuts to get them off? Edited 07/02/09 02:31 AM by bluesmuso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racerx Member 111 Member For: 16y 4m 11d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 07/02/09 04:40 AM Share Posted 07/02/09 04:40 AM Hey Bluesmuso, dont think you can move the actuator arm by hand, needs air to move it. If you can get you hands on a small compressor or a handpump it should only take about .5 bar to open it fully. Try soaking it in wd40/crc for a while, did the trick for me for a while.I also tried resetting the PCM and throttle position sensor, which also had an effect.Have you tried taking the hose of the front of the turbo and taking it for 'short' a spin? Did it with mine, went lik f**k but with heaps of lag. Dont continue to drive it like that though if you try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesmuso Member 144 Member For: 17y 5m 23d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 07/02/09 06:46 AM Author Share Posted 07/02/09 06:46 AM I've got a compressor at work I'll try and borrow it, hey Racerx how do you re-set the PCM and throttle position sensor? Disconnect the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racerx Member 111 Member For: 16y 4m 11d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 07/02/09 07:34 AM Share Posted 07/02/09 07:34 AM (edited) Yea, the norm seems to be to disconnect the battery for at least 30mins, I also turn the lights on or stand on the brake pedal after I've disconnected it, to discharge any residual voltage. To reset the TPS, put your foot flat to the floor for about 10 seconds when you try to start it, once you've done that, start as per normal.I've got one of those small compressors that supercheap sells, the ones with the tank on are best, cheap as and pretty handy. Edited 07/02/09 07:39 AM by Racerx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesmuso Member 144 Member For: 17y 5m 23d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 07/02/09 07:51 AM Author Share Posted 07/02/09 07:51 AM Thanks Racerx you are an 'encyclopaedia of knowledge' I'll try these things and see how I go, If I can get it running properly and average fuel consumption back down to 13-14L/100 rather than 22L/100 I'll be happy.I've still got it booked in at the tuners but if I can check some things for myself it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racerx Member 111 Member For: 16y 4m 11d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 07/02/09 09:27 AM Share Posted 07/02/09 09:27 AM No worries m8, I'm no expert, just passing on info I've gleemed off the cleaver people on the site.I'm the same as you, not frightened to have a go myself, rather fix it myself if I can, or at least have some idea before you let the tuner at it. Nothing more insulting, than when you know the cars not right, to have a ford dealer tell you nothings wrong with it, coz no fault codes show up. When these things are running right, there's nothing like them, smooth effortless power, awesome.One other thing, the cat maybe worth a look at given the kays yours has done, have a look down the tail pipe, apparently if you can see gold particles it may be an indication its on its way. A reputable exhaust joint should be able to tell you if its stuffed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesmuso Member 144 Member For: 17y 5m 23d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 07/02/09 10:04 AM Author Share Posted 07/02/09 10:04 AM The PCM and TPS re-set seemed to help, it feels like the boost is coming on earlier but has no top end, but it does feel a bit better.I like doing my own mechanical work as long as I know what I'm doing, if it's a horrible job or beyond me I'm happy to pay a mechanic to solve my problems. A bit off topic but I used to have large motor bikes when I was in my 20,s and pulled a few GSX1100 motors down and re-built (they are still a top engine even these days) .There is nothing as good as being on a large powerful bike on a nice day unless you hit something or something hits you, sold my last bike when I turned 30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racerx Member 111 Member For: 16y 4m 11d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 07/02/09 10:36 AM Share Posted 07/02/09 10:36 AM Mines the same when its not right, very flat on full noise, almost like a standard falcon. Have to agree with you, nothing quite like a big bike, got me ZZR1100 in the shed. That cheers me up when I get the urge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesmuso Member 144 Member For: 17y 5m 23d Gender: Male Location: South Australia Posted 07/02/09 11:04 AM Author Share Posted 07/02/09 11:04 AM (edited) Yeah I just drove it again, it is a bit better. I took it onto a nearby 100 zone highway and with traffic permiting tried a 0-100kph run and I guessed it to be about eight something seconds (stock na xr6 time) still feels like bugger all boost, I think I'd be lucky to be making 1 psi LOLAnyway thanks for the info, cheers Bluesmuso (Martin)P.S. ZZR1100 Kawasaki....now your talking! My bike was the older air cooled 1982 GSX1100 (same engine as the Katana) well as my mates used to say when I went for a ride "Keep the dirty side down" (don't drop it) Bluesmuso Edited 07/02/09 11:09 AM by bluesmuso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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