Fg Stereo Install

[sicklaser]

NEVER put an amp upside down, even if it is over a hole. the heat sink is designed to draw the heat from the amps insides. this heat then rises straight back into the amp. make a cradle to mount it up there but right way up. the heat from the heatsink will then rise up out of the hole from the factory sub.

[PHANTMXR6]

I plan on giving it a go first, but if temps do appear to get too high, then thermo fans will be going in to take care of that.

Thanks for the encouragement guys.

Yeah 4 gauge to the boot then split from a fused distribution block into 8 gauge to the amps.

I din't want to run 2 or 0 gauge as the size of cable is getting too large to lay low with all the additional noise suppression material in the car.

I will probably suffer a small amount of power loss, but for what I want it want matter.

If my performance mods in the future require remote mounting of the battery then it's a win win situation.

The first thing I did before I even had the new speakers for the doors was pull everything out of the doors and look at it.

While everything was out the first coat of noise suppression went in/on. I reckon I'll have some left over from the boot job so the rest will go back into the doors and the roof will cop some as well.

I haven't even got the tape measure out yet, but I reckon there will be ample room for at least 1 cuft per sub.

And definately in separate sealed enclosures. My rule of thumb with these subs, done a few installs with Type R 10's before, is 1 cuft sealed enclosure volume with half a pillow from Target in each enclosure to soak up the snot. Internally the box will be reinforced with 'glass, although probably fine mesh tape as I think I've still got a decent roll sitting around from previous escapades. I used to use 4 inch wide roll fibreglass as it was much nicer to work with than messy matt. Bit more costly but easier to work with.

I normally use 19mm mdf for the enclosures as well. Can't be stiff enough....

Smicky, where's the fun in plug and play? haha

That would be too easy.

And yeah, the factory amp is a Sanyo. Surprisingly, for a small amp, it has a 20 amp fuse in it and afer much flogging, well as much as you can with the p!ss weak standard crap, it doesn't get that hot.

[HI PSI]

I agree. Never mount an amp upside down. It will cook it... Literally.....

Here are a few pics of a Lancer that I did before I finished up in the audio game. It might give you some ideas..

LOL @ the Neon in the last one. This was taken before we made the cover for it...

Edited 13/02/09 08:55 AM by HI PSI

[PHANTMXR6]

Nice install.

I still want to retain as much boot space as I possibly can though. Hence the small enclosure Type R 10's.

[HI PSI]

This was just to give you a few ideas. I will ring the old boss tomorrow and get him to send me a few pics of backboards that I have done...

Flush mounted amplifiers with raised emblems/logo's Etc.... A 1507 will pretty much take up the whole backboard. So mounting the 4 channel and cap in either side like the Lancer will do the trick. Like I said.... Just a few ideas and very easy to do....

Edited 13/02/09 09:01 AM by HI PSI

[PHANTMXR6]

Head unit is in. And bugger me, it looks good and it works.......

After much swearing, cursing, a little bit of blood, some soldering fumes and heatshrink wars it's in.

After working out a game plan for power supply, battery and switched, I got the head unit in and working after about 4 hours of wiring and panel mounting.

Not happy with the head unit surround so I think I'll make a better one at a later date, but this one will do for now.

[smicky]

congrats man, and remember the saying - no pain no gain...

sorry I mean - all fun and games till someone loses a testicle!

No wait the first one was right!

heheheh

[PHANTMXR6]

Sh!ts and giggles. hahahaha

12V power supply wiring diagram for FG XR6T.

At the bottom of the pic is the initial chook scratching I did before I installed it all.

Basically I'll list what all the numbers and alpha signs relate to on the car in a list below.

If you have sound mechanical and electrical understanding you should be able to pull something like this off in approx 4-8hrs, depending on how you terminate the cables. For reference, it took me about 2hrs to make up the harnesses from the relay and the terminal blocks and about another 3 to fit it to the car. I soldered all my terminations and used heatshrink insulation on all the terminations.

Basic cost for this was around the $30-60 mark depending on how much of the required parts you already have.

Here's the legend for the diagram.

1. Battery positive for headunit supply or any other 12V device that needs constant battery voltage.

2. Switched positive for the head unit or any other 12V device that needs the accessories turned on at the key to work.

3. Earth for the head unit or any 12V device that needs an earth point.

4. Battery positive terminal block. ( You can use as many as you like but I chose a block with three positions in it.)

5. Switched positive supply terminal block. (Basically the same as item 4.)

6. Earth terminal block. (Same as the two positive supply blocks, only for earth.)

7. 4 pin relay. ( You can use a 5 pin relay if you want, but you need to work out which No 87 pin is live with the accessories on.)

8. Blade fuse holder. (I chose a blade fuse holder as it had 6mm cable in and out of it. You can use what you like just make sure the cable size is the same as the

supply cable size. I deemed a 15A fuse plenty for my requirements.)

9. Supply cable. 6mm. (I used 6mm as I plan on running a couple of gauges from the same power supply and don't want to overload it. You can use cable of a

smaller diameter just as long as it is capable of supplying what you want to run off it.)

#. I used the bolt on the firewall in the passenger footwell below the aircon evaporator fan assembly. It is of suitable size for the power requirements and is in a

readilly accessible location.

*. This is my switching supply for the relay. I tapped into the positive supply to the 12V Power Socket in the centre console for this.

Phew. Now comes the disclaimer.

This is what I did and I haven't had any dramas, but I have a mechanical and electrical trade background.

If you don't know what you're doing or aren't quite sure, by all means get a qualified person to install this for you.

I hope this helps with anyone thinking about doing something similar to their FG Falcons.

[smicky]

I know what im doing...

bbbbzzzzz pppfffsssss- bit of smoke and well aint no more go...

Woops, thought that would have worked...

PHANTMXR6 - I live in Hobart... Please HELP!!!

bbbbuuuuzzzzz Wrong dont think your far enough away!

*nice Mr squiggle btw!*

Nice write up mate - I hope no one comes crawling asking for help when it all goes wrong!

[PHANTMXR6]

Hence the disclaimer.

haha. Yeah I did a 'Mr Squiggle' because I can't do the Microsoft stuff to make it look Micro- flash.

And I reckon it makes sense. I hope.

Wait there. I didn't add squiggle time to the quote.

Add another hour for drawings and 'colouring pictures' as my kids reckon.