Fg Stereo Install

[PHANTMXR6]

I reckon the stuff you're thinking of is called Soundoff.

I thought about using it, but it becomes quite expensive after a while.

I reckon I can find an industrial product to do the same job.

Especially seeing as it's going on the underside of the guards. Needs to have a little bit more wear and tear on the outside of the car I reckon.

Yeah fibreglass to gain space and cut down on weight for the sub box.

[smicky]

yeah mate, your prob right - I really cant remember what it was or anything other then I saw it took a 2nd look and that was it!

Well keep the pics coming really looks like it should be a good setup at the end of this!

[PHANTMXR6]

Well, been at work for two weeks and come home to no noise suppression material in the post. Bugger.

I have to wait for it to come so I can make a start on the boot.

I did, however, manage to pick up my headunit surround from my panel beater. Did a pretty good job of matching the paint.

Here it is, not secured yet, just sitting in the hole.

[smicky]

Nice man!

Mite I recommend Veet moose for those hair legs but! hehehe

Works for me (when im bike riding!)...

[Dillz]

Good stuff mate, but is that power cable running right over the top of the engine or is it you just haven't tied it back yet??

[PHANTMXR6]

Haha. Thanks smicky. I tried, but not hard enough. lol.

Dillz. Not sure where you were looking mate, but no cable runs across the top of the engine.

Power cable is cable tied across the back of the engine bay to the brake lines. I'll be insulationing it with some convoluted tubing when I get closer to powering up the amps in the boot.

[PHANTMXR6]

OK. Update time.

Well there's not really much to update as I've been waiting for nearly a month for my noise suppression material to arrive.

Bloody Ebay sellers. But it arrived today, so I might try and get the boot lined on the weekend.

I've only got the weekend and then I'm back to work for a couple of weeks so till I get back there'll be no more progress.

I did, however, take some pics with the components I'll be installing in the boot in their rough locations.

I really wanted to put the V-power amp in the factory location and still keep it behind the factory trim panel, but it just ain't gonna happen.

I'll be mounting it under the parcel shelf upside down. Hang on, before I get flamed for this, it will be directly over the factory subwoofer hole and grille mesh on the parcel shelf panel so there should be sufficient sirflow for ventilation and cooling. I hope. Plus all the air the subs will be moving should keep it cool also.

If not, it's back to the drawing board to find a new location for it. But not until everything is in and it's been running for a while.

I haven't got it in the pics, but I've got a 1 Farad capacitor to go next to the sub amp as well when it's all done. Will have to work out the mounting for that one also.

[Azid Rush]

this is gonna be a nice setup keep us posted

[smicky]

ha ha - dont you just wish it was "Plug N Play"!

hehehe

looks good mate... any idea what brand the OEM/Factory amp is? did they use a sanyo again as they did in the B series?

btw- spend less time on here posting updates, and SPEND MORE TIME ON THE CAR FARK YA!!!

[HI PSI]

We used to use to fibreglass coarse matt into the corners of our boxes and then line them with sound deadening material similar to that found under the carpet of your car. This reduces standing waves.

Dacron is a very handy tool. We used it mostly when very small enclosures were needed. Stuffing as much Dacrom as possible into a sealed enclosure will actually fool the woofer into thinking that the enclosure is 10% bigger than it really is. So you can actaully make your box 10% smaller when stuffed with Dacron. It does this by slowing the sound waves by vibrating the stuffing which also stops standing waves. When a sound wave hits a standing wave it cancells the wave out.

This theory can also be applied for your doors. We used to glue High Density foam to the outer door skind of Sound quality system to minimise the standing waves also.

Is is good to see that more people Sound Deadening their cars these days. We were always amazed that people would spend copious amount of money on High End equipment and then refuse to spend a few hundred dollars to sound deaden their cars.

This is why sound deadinging is good-:

Sound deadening the doors with Eg- Dynamat does not only reduce ambient noise It also reduces the negative waves that are behind the speaker flowing around to the posative waves being created at the front of the speaker. This is commonly known as Frequency Spill. Eg- Hook up a speaker and run it,holding it in your hand. It has treble but no bass due to the negative (Rear of speaker) frequencies meeting the posative frequencies(Front of speaker) which then cancel each other out. Sit it in a door, which is now dividing the frequencies and removes the frequency spill, results in Bass....

I too recommend upgrading your Earth system in the car. I am not familiar with the FG. But the BA/BF are very noisey due to a very poor Earth system. I would recommend upgrading the Engine-Chassis and BAttery-Chassis earths. I would recommend a 2 gauge for this purpose. Ensure that Amp Earths are kept as short as possible and are Earthed at the same point. This reduces the difference in potentials in the earths and reduces the chances of a WIZZ, WIZZ noise through your stereo. Drill a new screw hole under the rear seat, Sand all paint (20c piece around hole) around the screw hole and fasten earth. Paint over to cover unused earthing area.

I was a Custom Car Audio installer for 5 Years. At our local Alpine dealer. I used to run 2xR10' Ported off my 1507, ( We nick named it "Surfboard" because of its size..) with fantastic results. Am I correct is saying that you are using a 4 Gauge power supply? I see that you are using a Cap. Good move, this will help reduce voltage drop at the back of the car. However I would recommend a using a 2 Gauge power supply as the current draw will be bottlenecked by the 4 Gauge which will not be able to carry enough Amperage.

The R 10's are still very linear at 0.8 Cu/ft or 22.6 Litres per sub with Partition (MUST DO) installed. That is an unstuffed volume. Reduce that by 10% if FULLY ( As much as you can possibly get in there) stuffed with Dacron.

I have waffled on for long enough. I hope that this has been helpful to you.

Good luck...

Brad

Edits are due to multiple Typo's. I must learn how to type properly one day....

Edited 13/02/09 06:48 AM by HI PSI