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300rwkw Unrealistic


bda12pleaseu

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  • Member For: 16y 10m 29d
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there seems to be a opinion that if your cars a BA you must do your valve springs first before you do any mods which I find kinda funny. The springs can start have trouble anywhere from stock to 350rwkws depending on other mods. Do your mods first and get a tune, if you have trouble with the springs then get it changed. Valve float can be easily seen in a Dyno graph.

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  • Member For: 17y 1m 13d
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yeah from what I have been reading what u say is wht im hearing. im kinda led to believe that its a case of if it aint broke dont touch it.

this is why I said mybe to the spring cause I thought id wait and see.

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  • Member For: 17y 9m 4d
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most reputable shops will be close as far as dyno readings go ,mines been on 3 different dyno's an run between 305 and 312rwkw

and my stock valve springs are holding but only just they really need doing, if it is a sedan you might be better getting a surge tank and second fuel pump ,other than that mines got 60lb seimens ,process west stg 1 cooler with ubp ,high flow cat ,process west surge tank and bosch 044 ,k&n and 2nd air intake

and yes 300rwkw killed my auto

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In relation to valve springs, it is gonna be impacted by your choice of exhaust mods.

Iv been told that if you have a good free flowing dump/cat or preferably full exhaust, your valve springs are going to have less backpressure on them as a result of that are less likely to see valve float (although it can still happen).

I have the stock BF 1 springs in mine and they are going fine. I have a full 4 " system though.

I dare say that if I was only running the stock dump with just a cat that I would probably be having some valve float problems at my power levels.

I have some Nizpro springs at the ready if I need them but im probably gonna be ok with the exhaust as it is...

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