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  bloan said:
Just wondering what if anything determined the size hose/pipe you used? Can a bigger hose/pipe size be used?

I used the biggest possible pipe that I could fit in the hole under the back of the headlight. Its very tight and you need to use abit of force. While forcing pipe down becareful of the parker bulb, I actually removed it and replaced the bulb when the pipe was in place. :sick:

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  • Brendan Dennis
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  • Member For: 22y 8m 2d
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Geea, Guys,

I have also done this mod.

I found a simpler way of attaching the pipe to the air box. :tonguepoke:

I found a bolt on flange from Autobahn. It is called a air pod adapter for $9.95 P/N 31sb/00856 92041789.

The plastic pipe from Clark Rubber fits inside this adapter and the adapter hole reduces in size the further you push the pipe in so it is a nice snug fit and makes removing the lower part of the air box easy. (if needed)

I did not plumb the pipe down to the bottom of the front bumper like Geea. I simply run it under the head light and then turn it towards the centre of the car to just behind the upper grill. I then cut the pipe a s 45 deg angle so that the open appears to open out towards the front of the car.

I took Geea's advice and removed the park light bulb while working in this area as it could become broken when installing / forcing the pipe under the head light.

So mine cost the $15 for the .7m of pipe plus the adapter $10 plus a few self tapping screws to screw the adapter to the air box once I made the rough / large hole. :nod:

Does it make any diff? if hear you ask. Well. Not sure. You can hear more air induction noise. It was raining today on the way to work so could not try it out. I suspect you could only tell if you put it on the dyno and run some tests. (I do have the BMC pannel filter installed)...

It seemed to make a diff in fuel usage (looking at the actual selection on the trip computer) but will only be able to tell after a long drive... :nod:

As for the preasurisation of the air box. I am working on the theory. The more air in the better (like a XR8 pod one). It may be a w@nk but the idea works for me! :innocent:

Pics to follow if needed.

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With regards to moving the position of the bottom of the duct I think it wound be best to have the duct higher but as to the position I am unsure. The factory postion under the bonnet edge or under the headlight seem to work well and also can cope with going through around 300mm deep water. Its something we dont do in our own cars but just gives you an idea what the car should be able to do just incase! Alot of water and engines dont mix, it can bend conrods and the like. I have seen it done!

Keep up the good work! Keep think of more mods

  • Brendan Dennis
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  • Member For: 22y 8m 2d
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Harasn,

Thnaks for the update. Can you comment on the theory that the cast metal air ducting that runs over the tope of the engine (with TURBO written on it) reduces the air flow due to its design / size. Would it make much of a diff to replace it with a full size pipe (if it fits under the bonnet?)

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Correct me if I am wrong. After having done this mod. & you were unfortunate (or game enough) to drive through 300mm of water, I do not believe that you would suck up water through the new pipe work, as you would still be drawing air through the original air intake??????? JMO

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