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Slow Or Fast Time?


typhoon_freak

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  • Member For: 19y 2m 2d
310 rwkw.. I was doing 110mph

Mine had, 311rwkw in June 2006 11.91@118.28 mph on a 1.98 60 foot, used toyo ra-1 proxes.

Mods were injectors, APS exhaust, walbro, bmc filter and custom tune.

Shift your gears at 5500 to 5700rpm no later, I can remember we went from 12.68 to 11.91 just with playing with the gear shifting changes.

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  • Member For: 18y 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: PERTH WA

1st gear in manual mode, foot on brake, rev to @ 2500rpm and change around the 5600/5700rpm range. That's what I did anyway and got my fastest time. Oh yeah, I smoked the sh*tter out of my factory dunlops to get this time aswell.

11.8 @ 120mph, 2 sec 60'. :beerchug:

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  • Cryptic Clothing Company
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 17d
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  • Location: Brisvages, Capalaba

so I guess it all comes down to practice.. well im deffinatly heading out this wednesday.. gonna try a few things. as soon as the amber goes.. do I put my foot flat down or do I feather her out and until 2nd then put it down? I wanna make my first 2 runs the most accurate as its gonna give me the best times..

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I would suggest that you don't worry too much about the lights and your reaction time, you are racing yourself not the guy in the next lane (you will most likely beat him anyway), leave that for the DYO competitions. Just concentrate on your launch. Don't stall it up too early wait til both cars are staged, if you stall too early and have to wait too long for the lights, the ECU thinks there is a problem and drops the revs.

How hard you should accelerate will depend on how much traction you have, if the wheels are spinning you are going nowhere. On street tyres you don't need a big burnout, just enough heat to allow the tyres to grip, if you drove there on them they will have some heat still, but waiting around makes them go cold. As mentioned, dropping the tyre pressures will help your launch, but add rolling resistance after that. So the idea is drop the pressures ONLY enough to allow grip on the launch. It will be different on every car, but on the rear I would suggest about 28psi, if you still have wheelspin drop it down to 25psi, on the front you want the tyres to be inflated high (less rolling resistance) try 40psi.

On your launch, throttle down to about 90% and then 100% as soon as you start to move.

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  • Cryptic Clothing Company
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 17d
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  • Location: Brisvages, Capalaba

well it turns out im heading out tonite. so I will give all this a go and give my feed back later tonite.. thanx all for your thoughts and tricks.. hope it works!

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  • Member For: 20y 10m 26d
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  • Location: brisbane

have a run in in both modes (manual shifting and auto peformance mode)... this way you will get yourself a comparison..

Do not watch the lights and do not race the guy next to you... infact let him go and then take off a second or so later... this way you get to concentrate on what you are doing and this will yield the best time for you in the end... only race others when you are a seasoned racer and have gear changes and launches set etc.

most of all have fun... the times will come with practice!!!

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  • Cryptic Clothing Company
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  • Member For: 16y 5m 17d
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  • Location: Brisvages, Capalaba

yeh, iv noticed people waiting ages after the lights and taken off. well I will deff try everything.. and im planning on 20-30min breaks between runs to help the heat soak..

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  • - Track Bound EVO III -
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  • Member For: 20y 12d
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110mph is not 310rwkw, well it could be, but not a very good 310rwkw..

I was running 11.8's at 117mph with ~305rwkw in a manual.

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  • Member For: 17y 8m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne, Vic
110mph is not 310rwkw, well it could be, but not a very good 310rwkw..

I was running 11.8's at 117mph with ~305rwkw in a manual.

Agree - I've got only a generic tune only no hardware -around 260ish rwkw and my BF XR6T ZF went 12.3 @ 115mph

With 310rwkw should go 119mph

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