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Turbo Conversion


danz

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  • Member For: 21y 9m 27d
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hmmmm funny I done mine in the car and I got no shavings in the sump at all guys

I put grease on the drill bit and slowly drilled it stopping frequently to clean the grease and apply more when it was thru it got sprayed and drained = no filings in the sump at all

but at the same time I wouldnt recommend people doing it it is risky

so each to their own I guess

I am told that SVI LP Gas installers use the same technique when drilling the inlet manifolds... :whistle:

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  • Member For: 16y 2m 29d
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There is an even easier way, you dont have to drill and tap the sump at all. What I have done it the past on a VR V6 Late model camira I installed a superchager on , we didnt really wont to drill the sump , so we used a banjo fitting for the oil return , which we bolted up to were the sump plug goes , very straight forward and alot easier then drilling and tapping the sump.

This is what a banjo fitting looks like for those of you that dont no what im talking about !!!

12mmBanjo1.jpg

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  • Member For: 17y 2m 1d
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There is an even easier way, you dont have to drill and tap the sump at all. What I have done it the past on a VR V6 Late model camira I installed a superchager on , we didnt really wont to drill the sump , so we used a banjo fitting for the oil return , which we bolted up to were the sump plug goes , very straight forward and alot easier then drilling and tapping the sump.

This is what a banjo fitting looks like for those of you that dont no what im talking about !!!

12mmBanjo1.jpg

I'm sorry to ask the question mate but I don't really understand how that works?

If you were to use a banjo bolt where the sump plug goes wouldn the oil backdraft? as it would be harder to flow the oil freely back to the sump many bango fittings I've seen have pretty small outlets, and by some small knowledge that I have bout turbo's they need to release oil twice as much as supercharger's

as they run of exhuast causing them to heat up quicker, and as oil acts as a cooling method. this would not be sufficient enough flow for the oil to cool

but if I'm wrong, ths pic might be some use for you, the ba sumps have blanking bolts on the side that go straight throw to the inside pull one out and run the oil throught that way if a 12mm whole is sufficient enough people may think otherwise let me know if I'm wrong fellas

post-13058-1220359082_thumb.jpg

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  • Member For: 16y 6m 3d

Great Post mate.

I've also been looking into ways of avoiding tapping my sump. Using something like you've pointed out in the picture seems like a viable solution. Perphaps not the ones on the bottom...as doesn't the oil drain grav down? But plug HB3 seems like it'd be good.

Not sure what diameter the oild drain is...my guess is around the 12mm-15mm mark. Perhaps pirtek or whoever could make something to suit one of the holes already there.

I'll subscribe to this thread.

Cheers

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  • Azzman
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  • Member For: 16y 3m 30d
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I wouldnt be trusting any other method for my turbo's sake, I say just man up and tap the sump or if you dont have the skills get somebody else to do it. If your really worried about it, take the sump off and do it, that way you can clean it out without worrying about swarf getting in your engine. If your extra extra worried then buy a turbo sump. I wouldnt be trusting any other method as doing any of these things is a lot cheaper than a new turbo!

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 2d
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The oil drain has to be gravity fed, running directly down in to the sump. The line about 15mm or so.

If the line is too small or doesnt flow enough oil for what ever reason, the oil builds up in the turbo and blow out past the seals into the exhaust... lots of smoke lol

Poeple have been drilling into sumps like this for years, I'm not recomemding it or saying its a fool proof method, but its a commonly used method... but what you do in regards to metal shavings is the choice you make.

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  • Member For: 17y 8m 9d
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As rapid said if the oil cannot drain freely you will have untold problems.

The banjo method mentioned above is a huge no-no, there is no way known a banjo bolt can flow enough to do the job at hand.

Also the fact that the oil is returning to the sump below the oil level means that there will be a vapour lock in the line which will promote poor flow, the oil must be returned at a point higher than the level of the oil in the pan.

DO NOT USE THE BANJO METHOD.

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  • Member For: 16y 2m 29d
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I have had no problem watsoever with using the banjo bolt , the oil flows freely and has nor casused any problems for me , I have not used this setup on a turbocharged car, im not saying use this method its just an option, at the end of the day its your car and your money your spending......ne way wouldnt it just be easier to buy a XR6T in the first place ......

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  • Member For: 17y 2m 1d
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I've also been looking into ways of avoiding tapping my sump. Using something like you've pointed out in the picture seems like a viable solution. Perphaps not the ones on the bottom...as doesn't the oil drain grav down? But plug HB3 seems like it'd be good.

Not sure what diameter the oild drain is...my guess is around the 12mm-15mm mark. Perhaps pirtek or whoever could make something to suit one of the holes already there.

hb3 is actually what I meant it's above the oil line in the sump, as I thought the guys have backed me up about the banjo bolt idea that's a no no

this is were a little more knowledge comes for you

there are multiple types of turbo configuration's there is oil cooled and water cooled, and there is ball bearing and wet float turbo's

if your using the genuine xr6t turbo then you might be able to get away with my idea into the 12mm whole as the turbo is a ballbearing design that is also water cooled, ball bearing turbo's don't need as much oil flow to keep them happy as a wet float design and at the same time they are cooled by water and not relying on oil this is giving you the opportunity to use my method.

if your using a turbo like what I have, it is actually a oil cooled wet float design t3/t4 that needs sufficient oil flow to cool it as well as lubricate the bearing's.

I have no choice but to drill my sump this is why my project isn finished "ONCE YOU TAP YOU NEVER GO BACK" LOL.

as to what RAPID has said "If the line is too small or doesnt flow enough oil for what ever reason, the oil builds up in the turbo and blow out past the seals into the exhaust... lots of smoke lol"

this has happen first hand to me and it's not pretty, I put a turbo on my 2.6lefi courier when I was experimenting a few years back and I was only testing at this stage so I just ran the oil return into the dipstick tube once the engine started and I gave it a rev the oil pressure went sky high and the oil return backdraft until it blew the seals through the exhaust causing egnormous amount of smoke lol I'll never do that again.

once again fellas correct me if I'm wrong about the different types of turbo's and there oil needs

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  • Azzman
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  • Member For: 16y 3m 30d
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having said that I'd be tapping the sump man, I wouldnt risk any other method if you need that much oil flow, tapping the sump would be the best way. As for buying a T, I reckon the conversion is cheaper! and heaps more fun!

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