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Clutch Change


Strike_Lightning

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  • Strike_Lightning
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Warnbro WA

Well this was supposed to be an easy job( NOT SURE WHO SAID THAT). Got the car up on stands, removed the tailshaft, that was the easy stuff. Got the lower bell housing bolts out but the starter motor and the upper bell housing bolts were a ----k to get to but out came the extra long ratchet extension bars and with a lot of frigging around managed to get them out. Out came the box with a lot of twisting and pulling. Clutch was in pretty good condition BUT - The input shaft of the box had that much play in it we were all( mates giving me a helping hand ) supprised I didnt have any g box noise, not only that, when we had a look inside we found more than we bargained for- both the front and rear main bearings had too much flop and the rear bearing outer race has been moving in and out of its housing causing wear to the casing DOH Any way we are going to strip the box down during this next week, replace all the bearings and seals and see what can be done to the rear housing. The one good thing about it is that the gears all look new. Oh well sh*t happens. Its all a learniong curve.

Maybe its time for a 6 spd.

DG

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  • Here since the start...
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  • Member For: 21y 9m 28d
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  • Location: Victoria

A hoist certainly helps! I can get a T5 out in about 30 minutes.

Sounds like you've got a serious end float issue. The bearing races aren't very tight in the housings but with heaps of end float they can move around. There should be virtually no end float in a T5.

Can you post some pics? It sounds like you've stripped the box if you can see all of that.

One tip for the re-installation...

Pull the back on the engine down as far as you can and wedge a block of wood in between the sump and cross member. With the extra clearance the gearbox just slides in and out easily.

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  • Strike_Lightning
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  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Warnbro WA

Yep thanks for the tip Adam, we figured that out after a lot of swearing and cursing and your right a hoist would of been great but you deal with what youve got. I know it will go back in a lot easier. Ill post some picks later in the week.

cheers dg

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  • BOOST
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  • Member For: 21y 5m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Southern Highlands NSW

It is a pretty easy job when you have a hoist. If you have your trolly jack handy put it under the sump and this will also help lift the motor so its easier to get the Box back in

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  • Strike_Lightning
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  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Warnbro WA
im just hangin on the clutch review... lol

Sorry mate I know I said I would review the new clutch but it makes it a bit hard when ive got box problems to sort out first. I have actually repaired my T5, new main bairings and tail housing and its ready to go back in but I am still contemplating the purchase of a T56. Something that will handle the upt horsepower she will have when finished. I have got a price from mal wood which I think is quite reasonable and I have also sorced a second hand one from a wreckers that they say has only done 30ks that's 30ks not 30,000ks which is only about $600 less than the mal wood price for a rebuilt and bluprinted one. So im still in two minds at which way to go but it will probably be another couple of weeks before its job complete.I have also got feelers out in the US of A for prices to.

I will certantly let you all know how it all goes.

Cheers DG

PS sold the ute yet ?

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  • Strike_Lightning
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  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Warnbro WA
only 30k's .. I know which one id buy

Yep I know it sounds like an easy decision but not sure if I realy believe its only done 30k's and the wreckers only give 3 months warranty and mal gives 6months.

DG

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  • Strike_Lightning
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  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Warnbro WA

Hi guys, just started to get ready for my T56 and new clutch installation for tomorrow and I made a couple of measurements as per mal woods 'important tips when fitting a clutch' info sheet.

But some things dont add up.

I am just asking this question tonight on this forum because I havnt been able to get hold of mal yet to ask him.

If there is anyone out there that has done a clutch change you will know what im on about.

The correct C.S.C crush should be 14mm to 17mm, this much I get.

So I made the following measurements - from the block face to the fingers on the pressure plate is 103mm,with the clutch and pressure plate bolted on

from the edge of the bellhousing to the face of the C.S.C is 71mm

which makes the difference 32mm which is too much, as per the info sheet it should be 14mm-17mm

So my question is HOW TO RECTIFY THIS PROBLEM.

I have also just measured the old setup and its pretty much the same as the new setup so IT would of been outside the recommended measurements also.

Not sure how to rectify it, mal states( on his info sheet ) there are spacers to install but I cant see where they might go.

I will be calling mal again tomorrow but I thought I might ask the forum today to try and get my head around it first, any info will be greatly appreciated.

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  • Here since the start...
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  • Member For: 21y 9m 28d
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Ok...

Well, the spacers couldn't go on the pressure plate and clutch so I would think they must go behind the CSC on the trans.

Can you post a pic of what they look like?

I haven't seen the instructions before, however I also think you've possibly measured it incorrectly...

I would think the spacers are probably used for a gap of a few mm at the most. I wouldn't expect you to be able to shim it up to 15mm...

Could be wrong. It's just a thought. :buttrock:

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