Tt Manifold

[6BOOST]

In Snorts ebay add he states its made out of schedule 10 steam pipe and if so the manifold should hold together but if actually made out of 1.6 or even 2mm chinese S/S it will crack.

Either way I wouldn't bother with twins, too much of a headache for no real benefit in a straight 6.

6boost have you had much experience with sched 10 S/S and turbo manifolds. I notice you stick to sched 40 steel. I've made turbo manifolds out of both and if there was a schedule 10 steel this would be my preference but ATM seeing how well the sched 10 316 S/S is holding up.

I know they say it is, and hey, I'm not saying its not, but it has the same litle braces above each port identicle to the imported ones, and the bends look longer than steam pipe bends, and also, why would you buff off and smooth every weld?? Ever seen a full race manifold?? Pure automotive porn.

As for shed 10 stainless, there is 2 reasons I don't use it. Firstly, cost, as production would add $300 a manifold, making 6 cylinder manifolds $1500, and out of reach of most people IMO. Secondly, harder to work with, time wise they would take at least 10-20% extra time to make due to it being a harder material, harder to cut, harder to die grind, if you put little effort into hand finishing a manifold when its done as I've noticed some manufacturers do, then there may be only a small amout of extra work....

Regardless of time or money involved, I still stand by physics and material properties, being that stainless expands and contracts 280% more than mild steel, and if I'm going to offer an unlimited klm lifetime warranty, I need to know that in 2, 4 or 6 years, I'm not going to get a constant stream of manifolds coming back that are finally cracked. I've put some of my manifolds thru some brutal punishment testing, and I am yet to have a single one crack, the head face bends from the stupid heat(read 1000deg exhaust temps) before anything else. I may look at doing something with them some day for pure show cars or rarely driven show/drag cars, but at this point in time, not.

One last thing, not sure where I saw it, but seen a picture of a full race manifold on a honda that was well used, and to be honest it looked like puss, just the surface finish after the heat had been thru it after a while, not the design or quality. If my staino manifold ended up like that I'd pull it off and sandblast it and paint it black....... In which case you maye as well use mild steal:)

6BOOST

[6BOOST]

what about a swanko special on one of your manifolds kyle lol

Don't you mean "swantko"

I think that'd go real nice, would be intersting to see some dyno figures and times from one of those on a atomic 900kw engine(so it won't fall apart) and some good fuel.....

6BOOST

[turbotrana]

I prefer working with schedule 10 316 S/Steel. If it wasn't for backpurging schedule 10 stainless would be quicker for me to work with compared to sched 40 steel

Cause its thinner than sched 40 steel the die grinder and hole saw goes thru it quicker and it tacks up better IMO. Do a tack in stainless and the bits stay aligned. Do it in mild steel and as soon as the tack cools it pulls everything out of place. The s/s shavings from the die grinder are alot friendlier also.

The main (one) reason I (and I think full race) use stainless is the heat retention properties of stainless. It keeps the heat in HEAPS better than mild steel and better for turbo spooling. I've done coatings and coatings do minimal in comparison to stainless. I am in the process of testing stainless durabiliy but I agree that a coated mild steel manifold is good for long term durabiliy and repairabilty if it ever cracks.