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N/a To Turbo Conversion


XR6_661

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  • Three pedals are better then two..
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  • Member For: 17y 5m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

That fairs enough then, as said earlier good luck with it and I hope you get it all sorted out. Oh and throw up some pics when ya get a chance :buttrock:

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  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 3m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Bonnyrigg Heights, NSW

I made the mistake of buying a n/a xr, and I done a lot of number crunching to make this thing go.. supercharging, turboing, buying a T, and the best option and the cheapest was that I went to the auctions and bought a smash T, that way you have everything, exhuast, fuel pump, diff, box, everything... and the whole car cost me 6500... and if anyone remembers it was chris's XRQTAR

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  • Member For: 20y 5m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Mackay NorthQueensland
Yeah sweet, I'll want to do this right first time so I'll go the path of the custom flash tunes. I'm assuming a good workshop will know what to do?

My cars an auto, but will I need an electronic shift kit with the flash tuner? As I understand you can firm up shifts through the custom flash,

I'll be spending the cash on an in car boost contoller as well...Got my eyes on a Turbosmart Eboost2...but with a price tag of around $700 I'm not sure...Just wondering if a cheapish controller would serve the same purpose? Perhaps an under bonnet dual stage and I could wire it to an in cabin toggle switch? Would that work?

Cheers,

Hal.

yeh, the shifts and overall presures can be lifted in the flash tune.

David

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 6m 3d

Someone suggested that instead of chasing standard parts, I should get aftermarket parts?

Now, If I took this path, I'd be getting the standard manifold, turbo, lines, regulator & MAP Sensor. I'd have to get aftermarket piping, cooler, BOV, dump pipe, Flash tuner + tunes, injectors & boost controller (I've decided on a Turbosmart Eboost2)

One of my main concerns is will I need to run an auto XR6T ECU if I am using a boost controller & flash tuner. I'm assuming the car probably wouldn't start & run once everything is bolted on and not tuned...or would it?

I know I'd be up for more cash doing it with aftermarket parts, but would it be a better way of doing it to start with? I want to do this build as cheap as possible.

My idea was to get the car running on the standard gear to start with, leave it like for for a while and slowly upgrade it.

What are everyones opinions on this?

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: north brisbane

im doin the same conversion but a ba xt turbo... im ready to go I will be running stock fuel system upgrading later.. ive got 3inch pipework and big front mount. and after tuning it will have cost me $2450 pretty cheap

Edited by 104ord
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 10m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Remember that the XR6T runs a different diff to the N/A 6 so the CVs will not be a straight bolt in. Chances are you've got a 2 pinion NON LSD so it's about the worst it could be. If you optioned the LSD from factory it will still be a weak 2 pinion setup that will NOT last with XR6T power. Your best bet is to either get the diff rebuilt with 4 pinion gears (Still won't fit XR6T CVs and still will probably fail with much more power than a stock XR6T) or IMO the ony real option is to get yourself an M86 diff out of a BA MKII or later MANUAL XR6T which has 3.73 gears that way you can source drive shafts for it or get them with the diff if available.

Edited by Strangled Cat
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2005 BA MK11 turbo
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  • Member For: 18y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: sunshine coast

gday mate ive done all this already all for under 5 grand using parts sourced from everywhere mostly ebay and the for sale section on this forum .and I did all this in early 2006 and guess what shes running like a dream still after 40 000 ks of being a turbo

I started off with getting a ba typhoon turbo and manifold off ebay 1500 dump pipe for 20 full 3 inch exhaust 120 I got my oil lines and fittings from pirtek teflon braided lines 90

stock ford return line 120 intercooler from ebay 130

intercooler piping from one steel 6 metres 42

2 bar map sensor from ford 120

stock typhoon injectors , 1 carton of rum

flash tuner 990

custom tune , cheap from elite auto paul is a good mate

b4 I got the injectors in there it ran 238rwkw at 5 psi

now ive put the injectors in and it runs 10 psi and goes heaps harder (still need to run on dyno for a figure

all that under 5 grand so the proof is in the pudding I guess

keeping in mind I did all the work myself mate everything except the tune

good luck with it bro if u need any advice at all pm me for my number and you can just call cheers 51KBA

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  • Sucker
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  • Member For: 20y 6m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

And on that note, 51KBA's thread on his project is here. Other than the usual banter trying to convince him to just trade it in on a T, there's allot of info in there you may find useful.

Best of luck :spoton:

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 6m 3d

Few more questions on the N/A to T Build.

And just a bump for people to answer my previous questions!

In regards to the oil feed/drain lines, etc. Will I have to tap holes in the block for these? Or are there bungs?

I'm a bit iffy on tapping the block =S If in fact it does need to be tapped, what would be the best way to do it, without taking the motor out? Take it too a mechanic or metal fab joint?

Apart from the tune, etc. I'll be doing the rest of the work myself.

Also, is $2000 for a turbo, manifold, heatshielding and oil feed/drain, water lines a fair price?

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  • 2005 BA MK11 turbo
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  • Member For: 18y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: sunshine coast

1st of all you have to tap into the sump for the oil drain line and trust me its no fun at all coz if you dont wanna get any filings in your sump its a slow and painful process to do it while the sump and engine are still in the car

I did mine while it was still in the car but you have to drill very slowly using grease on the drill bit stopping to clean it and regrease it often then you have to drill and tap the bolt holes for the return once again a very slow process using the grease you have to be careful not to drill thru the sump either most shops wont want to do this for you mate its a big job and will cost you alot in time keeping in mind if you do it yourself and you reck the sump the motor will have to come out

as for the turbo price that's not to bad keeping in mind you may not be able to use the water lines coz your thermostat housing doesnt have the outlet for them

I ran mine thru the heater hose balance pipe heaps easier and cheaper and works just as good

once again pm me for my number and ill help with as much as I can

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