Dillz Three pedals are better then two.. Donating Members 15,637 Member For: 17y 6m Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 23/05/08 01:57 AM Share Posted 23/05/08 01:57 AM That fairs enough then, as said earlier good luck with it and I hope you get it all sorted out. Oh and throw up some pics when ya get a chance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xrfranjo Member 350 Member For: 17y 3m 3d Gender: Male Location: Bonnyrigg Heights, NSW Posted 23/05/08 02:23 AM Share Posted 23/05/08 02:23 AM I made the mistake of buying a n/a xr, and I done a lot of number crunching to make this thing go.. supercharging, turboing, buying a T, and the best option and the cheapest was that I went to the auctions and bought a smash T, that way you have everything, exhuast, fuel pump, diff, box, everything... and the whole car cost me 6500... and if anyone remembers it was chris's XRQTAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueboost Member 1,204 Member For: 20y 6m Gender: Male Location: Mackay NorthQueensland Posted 23/05/08 11:07 AM Share Posted 23/05/08 11:07 AM Yeah sweet, I'll want to do this right first time so I'll go the path of the custom flash tunes. I'm assuming a good workshop will know what to do?My cars an auto, but will I need an electronic shift kit with the flash tuner? As I understand you can firm up shifts through the custom flash,I'll be spending the cash on an in car boost contoller as well...Got my eyes on a Turbosmart Eboost2...but with a price tag of around $700 I'm not sure...Just wondering if a cheapish controller would serve the same purpose? Perhaps an under bonnet dual stage and I could wire it to an in cabin toggle switch? Would that work?Cheers,Hal.yeh, the shifts and overall presures can be lifted in the flash tune. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XR6_661 Member 27 Member For: 16y 6m 7d Posted 27/05/08 01:38 AM Author Share Posted 27/05/08 01:38 AM Someone suggested that instead of chasing standard parts, I should get aftermarket parts?Now, If I took this path, I'd be getting the standard manifold, turbo, lines, regulator & MAP Sensor. I'd have to get aftermarket piping, cooler, BOV, dump pipe, Flash tuner + tunes, injectors & boost controller (I've decided on a Turbosmart Eboost2)One of my main concerns is will I need to run an auto XR6T ECU if I am using a boost controller & flash tuner. I'm assuming the car probably wouldn't start & run once everything is bolted on and not tuned...or would it? I know I'd be up for more cash doing it with aftermarket parts, but would it be a better way of doing it to start with? I want to do this build as cheap as possible.My idea was to get the car running on the standard gear to start with, leave it like for for a while and slowly upgrade it.What are everyones opinions on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
104ord Member 391 Member For: 16y 8m 9d Gender: Male Location: north brisbane Posted 29/05/08 10:08 AM Share Posted 29/05/08 10:08 AM (edited) im doin the same conversion but a ba xt turbo... im ready to go I will be running stock fuel system upgrading later.. ive got 3inch pipework and big front mount. and after tuning it will have cost me $2450 pretty cheap Edited 29/05/08 10:12 AM by 104ord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Unforgiven Member 119 Member For: 17y 10m 3d Gender: Male Location: Adelaide Posted 23/06/08 02:09 AM Share Posted 23/06/08 02:09 AM (edited) Remember that the XR6T runs a different diff to the N/A 6 so the CVs will not be a straight bolt in. Chances are you've got a 2 pinion NON LSD so it's about the worst it could be. If you optioned the LSD from factory it will still be a weak 2 pinion setup that will NOT last with XR6T power. Your best bet is to either get the diff rebuilt with 4 pinion gears (Still won't fit XR6T CVs and still will probably fail with much more power than a stock XR6T) or IMO the ony real option is to get yourself an M86 diff out of a BA MKII or later MANUAL XR6T which has 3.73 gears that way you can source drive shafts for it or get them with the diff if available. Edited 23/06/08 02:10 AM by Strangled Cat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51KBA 2005 BA MK11 turbo Member 140 Member For: 18y 10m 21d Gender: Male Location: sunshine coast Posted 03/07/08 07:26 AM Share Posted 03/07/08 07:26 AM gday mate ive done all this already all for under 5 grand using parts sourced from everywhere mostly ebay and the for sale section on this forum .and I did all this in early 2006 and guess what shes running like a dream still after 40 000 ks of being a turbo I started off with getting a ba typhoon turbo and manifold off ebay 1500 dump pipe for 20 full 3 inch exhaust 120 I got my oil lines and fittings from pirtek teflon braided lines 90 stock ford return line 120 intercooler from ebay 130 intercooler piping from one steel 6 metres 42 2 bar map sensor from ford 120 stock typhoon injectors , 1 carton of rum flash tuner 990 custom tune , cheap from elite auto paul is a good mate b4 I got the injectors in there it ran 238rwkw at 5 psi now ive put the injectors in and it runs 10 psi and goes heaps harder (still need to run on dyno for a figureall that under 5 grand so the proof is in the pudding I guess keeping in mind I did all the work myself mate everything except the tune good luck with it bro if u need any advice at all pm me for my number and you can just call cheers 51KBA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tab Sucker Moderating Team 32,303 Member For: 20y 7m 1d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 03/07/08 08:09 AM Share Posted 03/07/08 08:09 AM And on that note, 51KBA's thread on his project is here. Other than the usual banter trying to convince him to just trade it in on a T, there's allot of info in there you may find useful. Best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XR6_661 Member 27 Member For: 16y 6m 7d Posted 08/07/08 01:11 AM Author Share Posted 08/07/08 01:11 AM Few more questions on the N/A to T Build.And just a bump for people to answer my previous questions!In regards to the oil feed/drain lines, etc. Will I have to tap holes in the block for these? Or are there bungs?I'm a bit iffy on tapping the block =S If in fact it does need to be tapped, what would be the best way to do it, without taking the motor out? Take it too a mechanic or metal fab joint?Apart from the tune, etc. I'll be doing the rest of the work myself.Also, is $2000 for a turbo, manifold, heatshielding and oil feed/drain, water lines a fair price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51KBA 2005 BA MK11 turbo Member 140 Member For: 18y 10m 21d Gender: Male Location: sunshine coast Posted 08/07/08 06:39 AM Share Posted 08/07/08 06:39 AM 1st of all you have to tap into the sump for the oil drain line and trust me its no fun at all coz if you dont wanna get any filings in your sump its a slow and painful process to do it while the sump and engine are still in the car I did mine while it was still in the car but you have to drill very slowly using grease on the drill bit stopping to clean it and regrease it often then you have to drill and tap the bolt holes for the return once again a very slow process using the grease you have to be careful not to drill thru the sump either most shops wont want to do this for you mate its a big job and will cost you alot in time keeping in mind if you do it yourself and you reck the sump the motor will have to come out as for the turbo price that's not to bad keeping in mind you may not be able to use the water lines coz your thermostat housing doesnt have the outlet for them I ran mine thru the heater hose balance pipe heaps easier and cheaper and works just as good once again pm me for my number and ill help with as much as I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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