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Rust


XRPete

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  • Member For: 18y 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, NOR

Man I've seen some 2-3 month old cars looking worse off than my 22 year old XF :P

Some people honestly don't give a flying crap about their cars, and just treat them as a mechanism from going from point A to B. Never clean the interior, only gets washed when it rains, leave bird crap on their car for months...etc.

but yeah back onto the rust issue, I think the BA's were a lot worse, my mates uncles have about 4 trayback utes which do get left outdoors all the time, however in all the door seals, under the bonnet in seals...etc all rusted out. they complained to ford heaps of times and I dont think it ever got fixed while it was under warranty either.

Edited by XF Falcon
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  • Sucker
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  • Member For: 20y 6m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

Couldn't be bothered walking in to the garage to check...but am pretty sure the corrosion warranty is longer than 3 years. 10 years comes to mind but could be thinking of another make :stirthepot:

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  • BOOST
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  • Member For: 21y 2m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Southern Highlands NSW

think its 5 years. Just checked mine.. No rust.. When ever I polish the car I always do around the doors, boot and the spot where you guys have found rust

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  • Member For: 17y 9m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

Your rust perforation warranty is 10 yrs guys, take it to ford and show them, if there are no signs of scratching or any other damage, they should fix it under warranty :roflmbo:

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  • Go Pies!!!
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  • Member For: 16y 9m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Vic Somewhere - Sometimes NSW
smicky let us know how ya go with it.

I heard elsewhere that these cars have a 5yrs warranty on issues such as this.

Can anyone confirm?

Mate its either 5 or 10yrs from memory...

Mine will be all fixed up from what I have noticed 'so far' its already booked in for the 19th and a number of respray areas to be done!

Happy its getting fixed- P!$$ed of big time that its there to be gain with at all!

Anyways all good.. I hope!

Not bad for a 2 month old car!!! :sofa:

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  • Go Pies!!!
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  • Member For: 16y 9m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Vic Somewhere - Sometimes NSW
Im not sure how they will fix that boot area properly. its in between two panels, its going to need fairly major work to fix it properly.

XF - Im not a panel beater, but I would say they will most likely remove the area (ie ruber, boot lining etc), then look at the affected area, if it is a problem both on the top and the bottom they will most likely brake the seem seal to gain access to the under of the top outer skin. The area looks to have two skins - flat surface area on the inside and one on the outer, (2x painted areas)...

Once they have cut back the seam seal I would expect that they may cut out one of the sections (prob the under side) repair the damage to the upper (outer) side, then reattach a new under section (if required)...

As it is a tight area yes it would be a bit of a job, however I wouldnt expect it to be a 'big' job as the affected area looks to me small...

Anyways - just the way I would expect it to be done... I doubt you will even be able to tell it was done - if done right...

:buttrock:

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  • Member For: 19y 10m 3d

I have faintest signs of rust in the seam under the bonnet lid. It is in exactly in the same position as depicted in the photograph in the lead post of the thread.

This may just be a high precision stuff up, I.e. exactly the same problem in exactly the same place repeated in the production line. Then again, it may also be worth considering other causes. Have a look at the photograph and consider the relationship between the rust in the seam and the location if the elastomeric conduit that carries the boot lid’s electric cables. The conduit may or may not push against the seam when the boot lid is closed. The conduit may or may not act to black drainage and cause moisture to pool over the seam.

Whilst monitoring the condition of the seam and deciding the next course of action, I have infused, or at least tried to infuse the affected with zinc rich primer, followed by a coating of wax.

It would seem that the confined surface nature of the problem, so far, makes it a possible candidate for a mobile repair approach.

Something like precision grind out surface rust, apply rust inhibitors, rebuild surface thence airbrush. If it works, as this seems to be a common problem, such a simple solution could save everyone a lot of time and trouble.

What do you think?

Regards,

aa

Edited by aiboart
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