Mph Vs Rwkw List

[F6 UTE]

Your right too in it's no good having say 400rwkw at 4000rpm and it drops off rapidly before 6000.

Won't changing earlier leave you in a torque hole (lag) and need more time to build up revs into the power band.

You've got the runs on the board in both ET's and 60' times I can't argue with that, just adding my unknowledgable opinion

Depends on when u change and how much torque you make early. Each car is different and needs individual tweaks..

[IH8TOADS]

Anyone who has done a decent 60ft in a manual should have realised how precise shifting points will lead to a decent ET.....and how hard it can be getting them perfect. I agree with F6 UTE get this right and you will have a good ET for your power.

Further to F6's comments, my XR makes peak boost at 3000rpm and is sustained until 4000 rpm and torque reflects this 100%. At 3k rpm im making 209kw's and at 3200rpm im making 245 kw's and peak torque of ~635nm. When I ran 12.2, 12.3 and 12.5 I over revved the first 3 gears massively considering I make peak power at only 4400 to 4800 rpm.

In contrast to F6's comment about MT's reducing mph....I experienced the opposite but it may have been because my street tyre runs were very pathetic (14.6+ compared to sub 12.8's with MT's). In addition I have only done one nights comparison between street tyres and MT streets so I can't debate this and as mentioned it is generally common knowledge. Anyway hope this is useful and not off topic.

[IH8TOADS]

Youngy:

He only did 2 runs this night but best run was:

6sp auto ute, MT streets, 360rwkw's = 11.277 @ 124.82mph, 60ft = 1.851

[lil_bodes]

I ran 111-114 MPH 317RWKW manual 6speed Best time 13.100 poor 60' 2.469 MARK

[tquarrell]

I have a wog tune, 4sp auto mk1 sedan 110mph with 263rwkw @ 8psi (and dodgy valve springs). 13.2 with a 2.231 60ft

[JP300]

They are all customers cars!

CV PERFORMANCE

Sorry, I did not mean for it to sound that way ... I was implying that there are a lot more C&V cars out there that should put up some figures. The more the better.

[JP300]

Anyone who has done a decent 60ft in a manual should have realised how precise shifting points will lead to a decent ET.....and how hard it can be getting them perfect. I agree with F6 UTE get this right and you will have a good ET for your power.

Further to F6's comments, my XR makes peak boost at 3000rpm and is sustained until 4000 rpm and torque reflects this 100%. At 3k rpm im making 209kw's and at 3200rpm im making 245 kw's and peak torque of ~635nm. When I ran 12.2, 12.3 and 12.5 I over revved the first 3 gears massively considering I make peak power at only 4400 to 4800 rpm.

In contrast to F6's comment about MT's reducing mph....I experienced the opposite but it may have been because my street tyre runs were very pathetic (14.6+ compared to sub 12.8's with MT's). In addition I have only done one nights comparison between street tyres and MT streets so I can't debate this and as mentioned it is generally common knowledge. Anyway hope this is useful and not off topic.

I agree about the 60ft times making such a difference on the ET. But it seems like it has the opposite effect on MPH from my experience. Where the power is made is also not so important. From what I have seen most cars are making peak power up around the same RPM 5000 - 5500?

I went a bit backwards on MTs in terms of MPH but gained better ET on the same tune...

I will have a go at trying to plot the results that have been posted so far. I will do it over the weekend. Should be interesting.

Edited 24/04/08 09:58 AM by JP300

[SS346]

I read in an earlier post about average power being the key. that's spot on.

peak power means nothing, eg if car A) makes 280rwkw @ 6000rpm and car B) makes 260rwkw @ 6000rpm but makes more down low torque, I can assure you car B) will drive around car A).

torque gets you going, horse power keeps that momentum.

for the manual guys, I would look at changing your BOV, in between shifts, when you back off the throttle, the BOV opens and vents boost to the atmosphere, an incorrectly sized bov can slow the turbocharger speed dramatically, so a larger/efficient BOV would be beneficial by venting more boost pressure to the atmosphere and not slowwing the turbocharger down, this will result in better boost response when you snap open the throttle.

another way around boost response is flat changing, (hold throttle flat and shift gears) this is what the auto guys do !! lol!!!

Plazmaman have a new bov, I read it in a thread they posted up, I would really be looking into changing the bov, same goes for the auto cars.

From my drag racing experience, if you were to drop a tenth off your 60ft time, double it and subtract it from your et you will get a very good indication of your future et. (this will only apply to cars that dont 60ft very well. eg if a car runs 1.51 60 ft and runs 10 sec et's, if you go faster in the 60 ft then your et wont change much, though your trap speed will drop a little.)

eg. if your car ran a best of 12.4 with a 1.87 60ft, and if you were to run a 60 ft of 1.63 your et will be very close to 11.92

1.87 - 1.63 = 0.24 x 2 = 0.48. 12.4 - 0.48 = 11.92

[groper]

weve had alot of debate over this BOV issue, it wasnt clear from the people on here who have changed their BOV, or run no bov at all, whether it reduced thier lag or not?

I think simon from nispro, said it was no help. I always believed that it might be but never tried it because of what ive read on here...

anyone know of somone running a big BOV that has improved their lag between shifts???

[SS346]

I guess the best way to find out is do some of your own testing. sure it may cost you a bit, but imagine the wealth of knowledge you will gain.

Its not general lag im talking about, its lag between gear shifts, a bov will not get you full boost earlier in the rpm, but it will get you better response between gear shifts.