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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 14d
Yeah do that you will be impressed I think.

I used to use Auto magic #49 but I now make my own special blend

Well done Mr DMS, some excellent education there, this is what is needed for all carlovers to get the best results

The most important part of detailing or just typical car care is technique

Use any product and get the technique wrong and the results won't come

Sure that's not so hard by hand but when a machine comes out of the cabinet, that's when it can get tricky

As for clay bars - clay magic blue and red are the best for picking up the most contamination but anyone using the red bar will need to polish the paint with menzerna Final or Intensive polish or similar slight abrasive to remove the marring that will be caused

Sonus have an ultra fine bar and their grey coloured fine/medium grade bar

The ultra fine is perfect for regular use as it will not remove sealants or good waxes

While I hate the CM blue's stiffness and have to put it in a microwave for 10 seconds to resoften it, it does a great job at picking up all that rubbish that we do not see

Now to Polishing

You really nailed it perfectly Dan with the difference between chemical and abrasive polishes

The Polylack/Carlack/Werkstatt acrylic systems give a plasticky look but are superb on metallic paints as the light is allowed to pass through better and no flake will be muted

I put five coats of werkstatt Acrylic Jett on my AU XR6 a few years ago and the flake came alive after that and the refractive index of the paint was raised and there was no more bowing or bending of the reflections, every reflection was dead level and straight

If there is some oxidation on your car's finish, the best way to start is with a chemical polish

It will chemically remove it all or most of it and then make the abrasive polishing work better

The golden rule I believe is to seal or wax the paint once all preparation and polishing is completed, if this is not done, all your good work will wash away over time or be killed off by our Aussie UV rays

Chemical cleaners/polish that I like to use are those mentioned by Dan and these

Four Star UPC

Toughseal step 1

Glare Zero & Micro Finish

Werkstatt Prime Acrylic

Poorboys Pro Polish

Klasse AIO

Permagard Slightly & Severely

Work out what you really want out of your paint and then use products to achieve this

For example - for an awesome slick feel, do not use acrylic sealants like werkstatt or Klasse, they will be smooth or slight slick but not as much as Zaino, Glare, Permagard, meguiars, Autoglym

For depth on solid paints (no metallic), two to four coats of a super polymer sealant (megs 21, NXT, Permagard, Glare etc) topped a few days or a week later with the same amount of natural carnauba wax will create that

Oh and the amount of abrasive polishing that is done over the years on one car will effect the clearcoat clarity and thus the depth of the paint

This is why I no longer use Menzerna on my 10 year old paint, I want to keep as much clarity as possible and build on what is left

So Glare and Permagard are on it now (side by side) and some of the orange peel (heavy on the doors) is being buried by their protective coatings (need a rotary polisher to do that)

The last car I worked on, I used this combo

(severe damage)

Toughseal step 1

Prepsol (to remove toughseals residue)

Hi Temp Extreme Cut plus w/ edge yellow wool

Menzerna PO85RD 3.01 Intensive w/ lc Orange foam

Menzerna 106FF w/ LC white foam

Menzerna PO85RD Finishing polish w/ LC black & blue foam

IPA wipedown to remove oils from menzerna

Base coat of Permagard Slightly

Sealed with Permagard Reactive Polymer.

There is a real science to detailing, thus why there are only so few true professionals around like Dan. Absolutely artists

Edited by Dream Machines
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 1m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: New Zealand

I use more conventional stuff - and have a fantastic finish on my car.

Rinse the car heavily - keeping very wet.

I then use normal Mothers new car wash to wash the car with a synthetic sponge, kept clean and wet a lot. Rinsing down after a panel or two, then keep the next couple of panels wet. Keep the roof etc wet the whole way through.

Then when the car is washed, I drive down the road at great speed to dry it quickly.

When the car is fully dry, I use some "Kem-o-pro" liquid Carnuaba wax/auto polish (bought at a local body shop supply place), and apply it with a clean ripped up t-shirt. Polish two or three panels (in the shade) and then use a clean bit of shirt to polish off.

It may not sound as trendy as these other things, but I can tell you there are no swirls, no scratches, and my car stays clean for a long time and it has a great shine.

  • <put funny sh*t here>
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 5m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, NOR

I used to drive up and down the street a few times to get most of the water off, but I stopped when I got the xr6t cos im worried about sand getting flicked up onto the car and this causing scratches as I dry it.

What I do now, is to use the water sheeding (spelling?) technique where you get the hose and let it run off the car, it will almost leave the panels dry (if the cars already waxed/polished anyway) and then drive it straight inside and dry using my waffle weave towel. Once its all dry then I take it around the block and then dry off any runs once I get back into the garage.

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 17d
Just go faster - I have never had issues with sand (though I dont live near the beach or sandy area).

Ok I dont believe you!! You may not have any swirls as the wax could be loaded with fillers. Wipe the panel with alcohol then post up a shot in the sun and I bet you will!!

Also when you drive a wet car down the road you will pick up bits of dirt, then when you wipe it you will cause swirling. Its that simple

  • 1 month later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 5m 18d

My car is 9 month old silver XR6 T BF MKII.

Polished bonnet with gold class when I picked it up and did nothing, used heaps.

Paint feels grainy and rough however still looks new.

Can someone suggest what products I should buy, and order I should put on car to get baby bum feel back.

Car is outside day, garage night.

Cheers

Dave

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