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  • Member For: 17y 1m 29d

Hey Guys and Girls,

Ive been reading some of the past threads here and thought I would outline some stuff for you.

The biggest misconception I come across in detailing is people that dont understand the difference between waxing and polishing. I can see how they get confused, its the care care product manufactures fault mostly. Anyway here you go.

Polishing

Polishing is used to fix paint defects. Polishes can be either chemical or abrasive.

Chemical polishers include things like Swissvax cleaner fluid, polylack nano clean, zymol HD Cleanse. They chemically clean the surface to remove contaminants and defects. They will not remove swirl marks. For this you need an abrasive polish.

Abrasive polish

There are many brands. The best I have used is Menzerna. But the meguiars professional range is abrasive as is the optimum polishing range. Abrasive polishes need a machine to reach their full potential. Either a random orbital or a rotary.

Abrasive polishes have tiny little abrasives suspended in the liquid. This is what does the work the size and type of abrasive varies depending on the polish you use. The abrasives round the edges of the scratches and swirls so they can no longer be seen. In the case of swirls and fine scratches they are removed. In the carse of deep scratches they are always reduced and with the use of wet/dry sand paper can be removed. Menzerna Powergloss has large abrasives which remove large defects but leave the surface full of marring and quite dull. Then there is menzerna intensive polish this is between the two but on most colours needs to be followed with final finish. This depends on the pad used. Menzerna Final Finish leaves the surface free from defects and with a great depth and shine. Here are some pics so you can see the difference

After powergloss

SUC30137.jpg

After Intensive polish

SUC30138.jpg

After final finish

SUC30139.jpg

Waxing

Waxing is the last step you do when washing or detailing your car. That is why you may see it referred to as the LSP (last step product). The purpose of waxing is to create a barrier between your paint and the environment. Most waxes contain UV inhibitors to stop the sun damaging the paint. They also repel water which stops your paint getting etchings from watermarks. There are many may different LSP's out there both natural or synthetic or even a mixture of both.

Natural waxes tend to give more of a warmth and a glow. These waxes range in price starting at around $50 and up to $19000. Brands include Swissvax, Zymol, P21S, Dodo and many many more. These are the boutique brand waxes. You can get off the shelf waxes but I dont rate them for durability or look personally. If they are working for you then go for it! Natural waxes also tend to bead water. This means the water forms tight little beads that run off very easily. If you have a freshly waxed car and drive it in the rain you will find the water will just run off. The lower end waxes and off the shelf waxes last 3-5 weeks before needing to be reapplied whereas the higher end can last 6-8 weeks.

Synthetic

Synthetic products do not contain wax. They, for the most part contain polymers or acrylic. These are the two main types of sealers. Sealers include Zaino Z2 and Z5, Polylack Nano seal, Optimum opti seal, Klasse AIO, Zaino AIO. Sealants start at around $35 for the boutique brands. I have found Zaino to be the best as it can be layerd unlimited times but still remains optically perfect if you use Z2. Z5 will not as it has fillers to hide swirling.

Sealants give a different look to wax. It gives a look that is best described as sterile. The paint is shiny but it lacks the warmness and glow of a natural wax. Some sealants like the Klasse make the car look like it has a plastic coating. Some people love this look so leave it others, like myself, don't and then top it with a natural wax.

Synthetics tend to sheet water. The water wont form beads, rather it will just run off in a sheet is the best way to describe it. Sealants leave a very slick and slippery surface. Sealants also last a lot longer than a wax with most giving at least 3 months protection and up to 12 months for layered sealants.

Combination waxes

These have a mix of both natural and synthetic waxes present. These are waxes like Optimum car wax (OCW). They are a good compromise as they give the look of a natural wax and some of the durability of a sealant. Layered OWC can last 3-4 months.

Filler waxes

These are waxes like Meguairs NXT range. They contain things called fillers which fill swirls and scratches. The fillers also mute the metallic in the paint so it wont pop as much. As the product wears off the defects return. I dont like filler products as they wear off and the surface looks bad again.

This car has natural wax (Swissol Scuderia ~$200)

IMG_1032.jpg

This one has Zaino Z2 Pro layered 3 times and topped with Z8

P2106878.jpg

I hope that helps with any confusion you guys have and if you have any questions ask away!

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https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/44596-wax-vs-polish/
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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 15d
  • Location: brisbane

Great write up mate.

These days when you pop down to the local auto shop to buy some products to enhance/protect your car, you leave more confused than when you got there. Whatever you buy and spend the 1,2, 3 or however many hours it takes always looks good ....... just not for long (most times sh**House after the first wash)

two questions for you

1. you obviously do this for a living, if so where are you based?

2. what's your opinion on clay bars (I think that's what they are called) and at what point in the process should they be used.

cheers

Anthony

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 26d
  • Location: NSW

Thanks for that info that was a good read, I'm a crazy detailer with my car my wife hates it when I tell her I'm going to clean the car as she know I'll be a few hours. Personally I stick with Meguairs NXT range & other product.

post-10984-1208479914_thumb.jpg

Edited by jbute
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 1m 29d
  neoppg said:
Great write up mate.

These days when you pop down to the local auto shop to buy some products to enhance/protect your car, you leave more confused than when you got there. Whatever you buy and spend the 1,2, 3 or however many hours it takes always looks good ....... just not for long (most times sh**House after the first wash)

two questions for you

1. you obviously do this for a living, if so where are you based?

2. what's your opinion on clay bars (I think that's what they are called) and at what point in the process should they be used.

cheers

Anthony

Thanks mate. Yeah im in Sydney. Dont want to break any forum rules but cause im not a sponsor so wont say anything else at this stage.

Clay bars are great! They are used after washing and before polishing to remove anything that has bonded such as sap, bugs, over spray etc. Make sure you use lots of lubricant when claying to ensure it dosnt marr the surface. If your paint feels rough then it needs a clay. Make sure you fold it into itself frequently to endure your not pushing round contaminants.

Here is a pic of a clay bar after half the roof of a Ferrari 360 challenge, the roof isnt big either lol

IMAG0064.jpg

  jbute said:
Thanks for that info that was a good read, I'm a crazy detailer with my car my wife hates it when I tell her I'm going to clean the car as she know I'll be a few hours. Personally I stick with Meguairs NXT range & other product.

If the NXT range works for you stick with it! The best product is the one you like the most

Edited by dms_dan
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 26d
  • Location: NSW

Clay bar ! good question I seen that new turtle wax ice liquid clay bar. Check this video out World most expensive car wash : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LSle_WgexQ

Edited by jbute
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 1m 29d

The wax in that video can be applied to your car from Final Inspection if you live in Melbourne for only $130 for 3 applications if you leave them the car for 3 days. Otherwise you can get one application and take the car home. Still costs 130 but. The wax here costs $18800 a tub.

Also watch liquid clay bards. They are usually very harsh on trim and dont really do much for the paint. Traditional clay works best. Ring around and ask some detailers if they use liquid clay bars and that will tell you if they are any good. Im sure you will get all no's lol.

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  • Member For: 22y 7m 1d
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  • Location: Dé·jà vu
  neoppg said:
1. you obviously do this for a living, if so where are you based?

Read the rules before you answer that one Dan....and lock your Photobucket account that Superman outfit does you no justice at all.... :thumbsup:

Edit: whered those posts come from... :nod:

  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 6m 1d

Wow that Zaino one looks amazing!

Thanks for the good post dan.

I need some advice though. I wash my car regularly but am not certain how to get the paint to pop.

In the past I've used turtle wax, meguiars gentech etc etc.

She hasn't had a polish or a wax for a while, what would you reccomend I do and in what order?

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 1m 29d
  Dagabond said:
Read the rules before you answer that one Dan....and lock your Photobucket account that Superman outfit does you no justice at all.... :thumbsup:

Edit: whered those posts come from... :nod:

I did mate. I dont want to get anyone offside. that's why I didnt give any specific info about myself. Also the spiderman dude is my best mate lol That was at my party but.

  illusionzzz said:
Wow that Zaino one looks amazing!

Thanks for the good post dan.

I need some advice though. I wash my car regularly but am not certain how to get the paint to pop.

In the past I've used turtle wax, meguiars gentech etc etc.

She hasn't had a polish or a wax for a while, what would you reccomend I do and in what order?

To get it to pop it needs to be a flat finish. I would suggest wash, clay, polish (if your up to it do it by machine or get a pro) otherwise do it by hand, if you dont want to polish just use paint cleaner by hand then follow up with a wax.

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