How Embarrassing!

[jsmith]

Senna, slowly getting there what with about to start my 3rd bourbon.

Back on topic, hope your pride and joy, the Ferrari engined Porsche from Broadmeadows gets back on the road and you can get to enjoy it. Good luck and do keep us informed.

(sorry, have no useful information or anything to help you)

[HI PSI]

I have actually had a similasr thing happen to me. On a few occasions I have cranked the car over and stopped cranking just as the engine fired. The car then cranks continously for around five seconds then fires on what seems to be 4-5 cylinders. the car runs rough for about 15-20 seconds then normally comes good. I have had it where it also has no throttle response. I suspect that the computer gets an error when iot half fires then stops cranking. I now let the car go through its full start routine(when the lighs on the dash go out) before I crank the car. this seem to have fixed the problem. I do not think that it is an error with the car as it has been my impatience that seems to cause the fault. I hope that this helps.

[Johnny G]

At 55ks to empty, you're down into the "I'm getting crappy fuel" section. You may have picked up some moisture of the wrong type or even worse - some rubbish out of the bottom of the tank.

Throw a bottle of Wynns Injector Cleaner (or STP or whoever) in before you next fill, and feed it some BP98 on top (cleanest fuel according to most....). Run the injector cleaner through to a minimum 1/4 tank before you refill. See how that helps. Do mine every 15k or so......

Cleans and keeps injectors and the fuel system clean, improves performance, lubricates and protects injectors.

[jsmith]

I have actually had a similasr thing happen to me. On a few occasions I have cranked the car over and stopped cranking just as the engine fired. The car then cranks continously for around five seconds then fires on what seems to be 4-5 cylinders. the car runs rough for about 15-20 seconds then normally comes good. I have had it where it also has no throttle response. I suspect that the computer gets an error when iot half fires then stops cranking. I now let the car go through its full start routine(when the lighs on the dash go out) before I crank the car. this seem to have fixed the problem. I do not think that it is an error with the car as it has been my impatience that seems to cause the fault. I hope that this helps.

I have had a similar thing happen, It mostly happens to me when I let go of the key too early, same symptoms, same restart procedure, no long lasting effects (I hope).

[senna_T]

funny you mention the turning key thing, those of you soon to be driving FG falcons won't have to worry about it anymore. Just hit the start point on the ignition once and the car will finish the starting by itself - pretty handy huh?

[jsmith]

my problem is easy to fix, all I have to do is stop being an impatient son of a b!tch. Now you know why I bought a T

Sorry for the hi-jack, again

[Dirty32]

Well Dirty32, I guess u have never bought a new car?

A XR6T starts at $42k not including any on road costs

I then added as many extras as I possibly could afford-

Metallic paint

Leather interior, they mixed a colour to match the paint Neo and embroidery different from standard and choice of stitching colour over $3k option (custom form the factory)

premium audio

Paint protection

Tint

Floor mats (XR)

Spare Alloy 18"

striping pack

Side air bags

Reverse sensors

They were asking me to fork over $57k but I got them down to $52k and I had to wait over one month for it to get built.

So to answer your question yes

When putting insurance for the car its $57k to replace.

This is why my fist post is so ridiculous!!!!

Ok - but if you bought it for $52K, I dont really agree with you to say it cost u $57K.

Im not havin a dig, just sayin that I think you paid through the nose. We got our BF1 XR6T ute brand new. Prem sound, floormats, Momo wheel, leather int etc for around $44K. Didnt think the utes were any more expensive than the sedans, but I may be wrong.

You could of bought a well optioned F6 for near $57K.

Anyways - no probs. Hope you sort the problem and have it back running like normal asap!

Edited 03/04/08 11:59 AM by Dirty32

[senna_T]

the utes are a bit cheaper than the sedans 32, and if the guy has already bought a vehicle its not really nice to tell him he got ripped off! not much he can do about it now. If you really would like to know you probably could of got your ute for less too!

This topic should really be about Rhonel getting his car fixed, not telling him he should haggle more...

[tab]

The invoice for my BF ute said $55k so it's all irrelevant, what that's made up of and what the swapover amount is (if trading) is all that matters.

[Rhonel]

The saga continues,

Ok all this is what’s happened…… I went to Ford service center to get the problem fixed. I explained to the manager & the supervisor of the center of the problem that has occurred & they said to me it might be the TPS as previously stated on page one. I then asked them how long would it take for this problem to be fixed, They were unable to give me a time frame as they had to find the fault first then go from there, so I handed them the keys and they gave me a ride home.

Four hours later I haven’t heard anything, so I decided to give them a call to see if I would have a car for the weekend. They say to me its been ready for a while now & thought to myself uz are fu*ked!

When I got there and I state this is what they told me, what the problem was-

They connected a laptop to the car ECU and found some dirty data and I was told that the this data said the waste gate actuator was closed (im guessing momentarily) I then asked what that has to do with the problem im having as the waste gate actuator has nothing to do with the idling RPM they said due to this dirty data the ECU will decide if the problem is severe and will shut down if it detects any possible damage & this is why it may have been playing up, he also said that it’s the only thing that they found on the data log. So to fix the problem they reset the ECU (deleted all previous data) put the latest tune & tested the car & found that the revs were not dipping past 750 rpm any more.

I drove home less then 5 mins and everything seemed fine, so I guess only time will tell if this problem has been fixed.

And to all that have been reading this I thank you for your advice and help, this journey has really pissed me off and I guess it could happen to anyone, just as its not me again!