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Atomic Cams


daggo

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BF Cams are better than BA units, and engine is more responsive.

I did the switch a few years ago, as my car was 'born' a BA.

Can't speak for top power though, as I never did a before/after test.

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More overlap combined with greater duration = faster spool time and more area under the curve for boost .. HTH

Remember standing behind a cammed N/A and how far the exh pulses go?

Now imagine that hitting your turbines>> but what would I know ??

As for choice I havn't a clue sorry...

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I think it's going to be one of those things that will bug me untill I do it. I've spent way too much money on it this year so I'll spend some time researching and planning for a while. It's probably a different thing but I had an n/a 6cyl el with a mid to high range cam (pretty much in the middle of a stage 2 and stage 3 profile), and I remember how it changed the feel of the car. I don't now how much extra power it made but I really enjoyed how it delivered the power a lot more aggressively. Of course the downside is being too aggressive for the street.

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Just remember, you are dealing with a forced induction engine in the XR6T, and the game is completely different in terms of cams.

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More overlap combined with greater duration = faster spool time and more area under the curve for boost .. HTH

Not in a turbo car.

Slower spool time, but more top end.

Since the mid 80's (that I remember) turbo cars run less duration, relying on boost for power, with the benefit of lower emissions from delaying the opening of inlet cams and closing the exhaust cam earlier.

VVT is the only thing to save you, to assist spool up,but if my memory serves me correctly there is no proper independent cam timing in the BA, a hardware constraint, unless it is an F6.

Brian

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20 years ago when I turboed my torana I initially just used the wild XU1 cam that I had. It pinged on relatively low boost as there was too much overlap and just pushing everything out the exhaust.

I then played with a few cams since then and ended up with a grind that gave me 500+hp at around 23psi with no detonation in sight on pump fuel. I did have 25+ lb of boost but never on the dyno. I used around 113 lobe centres and did play alot with opening and closing points for both inlet and exhaust to get a detonation free engine.

My advice is whilst there are power gains you can still achieve ridiculous power without them. Having two variable stock cams to deal with (inlet and exhaust) is enough as it is. So you are adding alot of work for not alot, expecially if you are not a hands on engine builder and you intend paying someone to sort it out.

And the biggest factor is that its not like you have a live programable engine management system where you can adjust tuning maps. All you have is tuners who adjust scallers, that's really not called tuning.

So I would just stick with stock cams.

Edited by turbotrana
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