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  • Bronze Donating Members
  • Member For: 11y 11m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA

When I did mine, I put a 36mm valve in there. But I did find the standard hole could be made bigger even with the standard valve as there is a lot of sealing surface(maybe that's enough for the standard compressor). I found my 36mm valve would stick open every now and then, but operating the waste gate a few times while its out of the car can test this. I then removed steel out if the turbine housing until it didn't get stuck anymore. Now shes all sweet.

Excellent effort putting this thread together mate.

Edited by AdamIan69
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop
  On 03/08/2013 at 11:48 PM, Skids4kids said:

It works fine...boost is lower now up top.

Just realised who you are, don't you run a 3" exhaust?

if so the turbo port is not going to be as vital as when running a big exhaust, if you think it work well let us know the exact details, what size actuator and what boost at what duty cycle at 4000 and 4500 rpm, that will show how well it works, not trying to be smart but without that info anybody could claim anything

  • in the mid....not the bum like some
  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male

Ok I will go into a little more detail to ensure this will not be over boosting on me at any rpm.

Last week before the drags I had my turbo apart due to a snapped banjo bolt in cartridge....use steel only not aluminium lol.

Whilst apart I had the rear housing sitting with my other 3 and long story short a different stock port housing was fitted and created over boost issues in the midrange...it seems there is a quality control issue with stock port sizes as the one that was fitted before had very good boost control at stock port size at any rpm...could run 10psi flat with it if I wanted:)

Basically what I have done is enlarge the factory FG port another 1.5mm and used the factory flapper still on the original and up to the task stock flapper and port which has taken 2psi out of the midrange/up top thus far so confident it will be ok....even better than before.

Yes I still retain a small exhaust as the torque benefits for me outweigh the extra few kilowatts up top...plus it has zero drone at any speed/incline/rpm:)

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop

we have not noticed in real difference in the stock housing performance but know that if the orientation of the housing is slightly different is can add or reduce the actuator preload which will affect a car if tuned in open loop, what size actuator is now fitted and what boost does it run in the mid and at what duty cycle.

  • Like 1
  • in the mid....not the bum like some
  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male

It has a 8psi actuator on the housing like previous tunes and boost is now 12'ish psi instead of 15psi in the peak midrange rpm but my tune was literally a linear boost curve slowly rising so never really held a certain psi in the mid.

Only way to get 18psi peak was to run 12psi down low and not rising straight away either....normally a 18psi at 5000rpm tune will see 20psi down low/mid for me as I prefer the boost higher down low and ramped in hard for drag racing.

It wasn't a ideal tune for my application so to speak but it still got me my goal and he could only tune with hardware provided obviously:)

Not sure on duty cycle ratter.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb

Taking port and polishing to a new level... Cant say I've seen anyone "Polish" the exhaust housing ... lol

  • 5 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 9m 15d

just brought one of these and I not sure if its been done or not can anyone tell me what the original hole size is and what it should be ported out to?? thanks

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 8m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Maryborough Qld
  On 04/08/2013 at 1:51 AM, AdamIan69 said:

When I did mine, I put a 36mm valve in there. But I did find the standard hole could be made bigger even with the standard valve as there is a lot of sealing surface(maybe that's enough for the standard compressor). I found my 36mm valve would stick open every now and then, but operating the waste gate a few times while its out of the car can test this. I then removed steel out if the turbine housing until it didn't get stuck anymore. Now shes all sweet.

Excellent effort putting this thread together mate.

on my stoc turrbo and houseing (besides 8 psi actuator)when I had it apart for aengin mount swap I noted that the flapper gets caught on the houseing when opening and closeing.......now I want toremove turbo again for other reasons so while its off should icarefully use a dremal and clean up the burrs untill it does not get caught? cars running fine just wanna make sure

  • Bronze Donating Members
  • Member For: 11y 11m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA

Yes you could, but pointless if the car is running fine IMO. If you were going to do what you say I would go buy a 38mm or 40mm valve and do the whole job. It is piece if puss with the right tools. ie electric die grinder and carbide bur.

Edited by AdamIan69

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