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Burnout Advice Needed!


DesFlurane

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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 9m 7d
  • Gender: Male

F6 auto. MT ET street radials.

When I had a softer 295 I could turn the wheels for a small burnout and run 12.8 @ 112, no tyre spin at all.

New tune, 319 with heaps more torque.

My burnout is now not heating the tyres so that they will grip, I think. Result best off 13.2 with some runs over 14. Had one 60ft of 3.4 secs.

Wheelspin city, bouncing of the limiter all sorts.

So, my 'technique', put the rears in the water, traction off, perf mode. Foot hard on brake, hard on throttle, start to lose traction, cars steps to the right, let off brake and then it all dies, roll to line and lights, action, wheelspin.

What's going wrong?

My guess is I'm getting off the power when the car goes to the right and the brake comes off?

Tyre pressure started at 20psi and I let them down to 16 later, to no effect.

Track was not prepped.

Need help.

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  • Cruise Control
  • Member For: 19y 1m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

put it in man mode foot hard on brake and throttle when it starts to spin loosen brake a little and when it gets to 5000rpm shift to 2nd then at 5000 shift to 3rd then foot off brake and hold the power until it stops spinnig,this method with crappy old circuit tyres 329rwkw 11.99 @123mph so with some et,s I would expect a 11.5

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  • Member For: 17y 2m 20d
  • Gender: Male

Manuel you would do the burnout in 2nd gear to start and then if the cars got the grunt you'd shift into 3rd holding it to the floor with no brakes till the tyres bite, then reverse back and you should be right to go.

The higher the gear the harder they'll spin hence more temperature going into the tyre.

Edited by JETFPV
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  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 17y 11m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

I've found second is good enough in my car (T56 manual) as the road speed is around 100km/h - although I haven't used M/T's yet, this works well for street tyres that don't need much heat anyway

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  • Member For: 19y 1m 16d
  • Gender: Male

bloosted is on the money. by the sounds of it you are to hard on the brake when it starts spinning. which is stopping the back wheels spinning as much. you have to remember that once the rears are spinning it does not take much to keep the car moving slowly. I have found that once it is spinning I am hardly on the brakes and the car will almost spin on the spot. once it starts spinning in first grab secons straight away. with that kind of power second will spin them easy. then grab three and the smoke show will start. hold it for 5 secs longer then you think then just off the brake and drive it out of the spin with your foot flat. that way you scrub the tyres before your run.

good luck with it, but with that power 11`s are on the money

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Manuel you would do the burnout in 2nd gear to start and then if the cars got the grunt you'd shift into 3rd holding it to the floor with no brakes till the tyres bite, then reverse back and you should be right to go.

The higher the gear the harder they'll spin hence more temperature going into the tyre.

I agreee with the 2nd gear start but there's no need to be trying to hit 3rd in a manual, it's not a funny car.

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  • Cruise Control
  • Member For: 18y 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Macksville NSW.
I agreee with the 2nd gear start but there's no need to be trying to hit 3rd in a manual, it's not a funny car.

Good advice.......and another little trick Ill tell you.....

If your running your stock street front tyres, and Im assuming you are.....

Try driving "around" the water box and reversing back into the water keeping your front tyres as dry as possible.....then do as Xrqtor suggested.....

A wide front tyre can carry a lot of water.....all the way to the startline and its possible that you might be wheelspinning in the water carried by your own front wheels.....get the picture?

Its just a tip, but Ive seen it pay off before.....

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