Circuit Racing

[bossmang]

On 03/05/2018 at 4:14 PM, masda74 said:

All I know is that when I want the car to turn, it just does.

my car turns when I want it too

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sd1800]

On 5/2/2018 at 12:39 PM, arronm said:

You need to start with a cooler thermostat.  Have the fans adjusted in the tune. 

 

Install a thicker radiator and a look large engine oil cooler. 

When I did the coolant flush before Anzac day I replaced the thermostat with a 88c high flow one (previous was factory 91c). I was reluctant to go to 82c as I felt this may have caused it to start running rich as the tune hasn't factored this in. Either way, I don't think the thermostat is going to make a difference for me at this stage as by the time you pull out of the pits the coolant is already mid 90s+ and the thermotat will be wide open. Feel free to correct me if I've got any of this wrong.

 

Any recommendations for Radiators and Oil Coolers? I've seen the name Fenix dropped around here abit for radiators.... Will they just drop in or do you need to do some custom brackets/mounts for the bigger ones?

 

Also, any thoughts on a Thermo Fan Override switch? Thinking I could flick this before I head out on track days only. Also will try some Water Wetter which I've read some good things about, and am going to have an oil temp guage next time so I can ensure I'm not pushing it dangerously high.

[nelsonian101]

Hi mate, Colder thermostat makes no difference once you are over the rated temp. Once it's open, it's open. Colder thermostat delays this slightly though but in my experience at a track day, the engine block heat soak never allows temps to get back to under 80-85 without a 2 hour break. (Ambient dependant)

 

To answer your questions:

 

I've used 2 X 55mm PWR radiators, 1 X Fenix, 1 X Chinese ebay radiator and 2 stock. PWR seems to be the best but 1st one died due to stray current (possibly poor installation or crash causing rubbing: metal/metal) PWR suck with warranty. Fenix are awesome with warranty but don't make for FG anymore. BF ok though. Check end bracket fittings though as quality varies. My second PWR 55mm V8 one is going fine but very close to belt/fans. Works better shrouded in heat proof foam and spacer at back of bonnet. Manual thermos fan over ride switch is currently working for me keeping coolant temps under 85deg in staging pit area.

 

Re: Engine oil coolers. Highly recommended. Mine sits behind fog light with a thermos fan pulling air through. Switch on manually usually on 2nd session of a track day. More complicated relay versions are available that turn on automatically at a preset temp but I like to keep it reliable and simple.

 

Redline water wetter and Purple Ice didn't really do much.

 

The real secret is..................go in winter.

 

Take a big floor mounted fan and drive about 5kms up the road at low rpm 100kmh after a session for adequate cool down.

 

I'll be at Wakefield with a few other XR6T May 30th with Trackschool. Can you make it?

 

Feel free to PM me too.

Edited 07/05/18 10:42 AM by nelsonian101

[arronm]

On 5/5/2018 at 12:13 PM, sd1800 said:

When I did the coolant flush before Anzac day I replaced the thermostat with a 88c high flow one (previous was factory 91c). I was reluctant to go to 82c as I felt this may have caused it to start running rich as the tune hasn't factored this in. Either way, I don't think the thermostat is going to make a difference for me at this stage as by the time you pull out of the pits the coolant is already mid 90s+ and the thermotat will be wide open. Feel free to correct me if I've got any of this wrong.

 

Any recommendations for Radiators and Oil Coolers? I've seen the name Fenix dropped around here abit for radiators.... Will they just drop in or do you need to do some custom brackets/mounts for the bigger ones?

 

Also, any thoughts on a Thermo Fan Override switch? Thinking I could flick this before I head out on track days only. Also will try some Water Wetter which I've read some good things about, and am going to have an oil temp guage next time so I can ensure I'm not pushing it dangerously high.

At look least you are starting with a manual.  

 

The autos just cook the trans fluid and boil the coolant.  

 

Call fenix.   Maybe they will make a fg one for you.  

 

I have had mine (BA BF 50mm) for 5 years.  No issues.   Close to the pulleys though. 

 

Maybe this will fit.  Its what I run. PWR.

 

[sd1800]

On 5/7/2018 at 8:40 PM, nelsonian101 said:

I've used 2 X 55mm PWR radiators, 1 X Fenix, 1 X Chinese ebay radiator and 2 stock. PWR seems to be the best but 1st one died due to stray current (possibly poor installation or crash causing rubbing: metal/metal) PWR suck with warranty. Fenix are awesome with warranty but don't make for FG anymore. BF ok though. Check end bracket fittings though as quality varies. My second PWR 55mm V8 one is going fine but very close to belt/fans. Works better shrouded in heat proof foam and spacer at back of bonnet. Manual thermos fan over ride switch is currently working for me keeping coolant temps under 85deg in staging pit area.

 

Re: Engine oil coolers. Highly recommended. Mine sits behind fog light with a thermos fan pulling air through. Switch on manually usually on 2nd session of a track day. More complicated relay versions are available that turn on automatically at a preset temp but I like to keep it reliable and simple.

 

Redline water wetter and Purple Ice didn't really do much.

 

The real secret is..................go in winter.

 

Take a big floor mounted fan and drive about 5kms up the road at low rpm 100kmh after a session for adequate cool down.

 

I'll be at Wakefield with a few other XR6T May 30th with Trackschool. Can you make it?

 

Feel free to PM me too.

Nah I won't be at the trackschool event, but looking at maybe going with Circuit Club again in mid June. I remember seeing your ride at Circuit Club about 5 years ago at Wakefield (I was out there with my XR5T at the time). Good to see your still at it! Do you still do any of the Circuit Club days?

 

I did some research and found the PWR BA-BF 55mm Radiator but it seemed to be about the $1000 mark. It might be stretching my budget a bit for just abit of fun in the daily'. Might just have to do regular cool-downs. Are you saying the Fenix BF radiators will fit the FG with no modification? If that's the car, what was the difference between the two in the first place?

 

Yes winter will help no doubt, and I do always go for a drive down the highway after sessions for a cool down.

 

@arronm That kit looks pretty cool but also seems to be about $900? It must be pretty big! There seems to be a universal PWR oil cooler 280x256x37 for about $320 but then I guess you need to get lines made up and brackets fabricated and buy a separate thermo..... Next step for me I think is just to make sure I have a oil temp guage next time and understand just how hot it's getting. I am doing regular cool down laps at the moment and driving with a fair bit of mechanical sympathy so I might not need such an epic solution.

 

On the positive, just picked up 3000km old adjustable shockworks and a 355mm/325mm PBR Big Brake Kit with Braided Lines a few days ago as a package at a good price. Looking forward to seeing the difference, on the street and track!

[arronm]

Unfortunately it costs money to go fast with reliability.  To track a car costs cash.

[sd1800]

Yeah I totally understand, I'm not that naive...haha. For me its a legal way to have some fun without worrying about the boys in blue, rather than it being overly competive. If it means I have to regular cool downs every 2nd lap and/or drive at 80% rather than 100%, then I'm alright with that. Nevertheless I still want to take necessary precautions and monitor oil temps etc.

[nelsonian101]

The radiator end fittings/brackets are different on BF/FG.

I tried but failed to get Fenix to make me an FG one again, but that may have changed. Was a few years back.

Forgot to mention I use a heat proof foam shrouding which forces all air through the radiator more efficiently.

 

Is your engine stock?

 

In my opinion, I'd just go in winter, run a richer tune (if tuned) with less boost if not chasing a lap time to keep temps down.

I've noticed some of my high power/boost 23psi tunes on E85 really bring the coolant temp up a lot more quickly than say a 21psi tune. No surprises there.

 

Stock radiator will be fine in temps under 15deg ambient which Goulburn is in winter. 1st 2 sessions are usually in single figures deg C.

Cars this heavy perform well though as they still heat tyres/brakes very quickly in extra cold conditions. They thrive at 5degC with dry air.

 

 

Plenty of cool down laps are still a must. Monitor temps with a watchdog alarm sensor on the thermostat housing.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENGINE-WATCHDOG-TM2-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-GAUGE-ALARM-Aussie-Made/142780461502?hash=item213e60f1be:g:DcMAAMXQcVNQ8-jf

 

These are awesome. Set at 115deg. Loud alarm when over 115deg. Drops rapidly when back off throttle and start cool down. Beauty of it is you never need to worry or watch temp gauges. Just focus brain power on lines, turn in and braking points.

 

To answer your question, I'm doing the circuit club day for Winton this year in August. You should come along. Awesome track!

 

[furiousgibbon]

Disappointed to hear that fenix heavy duty radiators are no longer an option, I had pretty much made the decision to give one a try. No chance I'll fit a pwr radiator behind this Jonny tig cooler. 

 

Curious to know what intercoolers are in use on cars that are overheating, and what power they're generating? I didn't have any issue with F6 stock cooler/stock power except for one day when it was 43C and it hit coolant warning after about 2-3 mins on track. 

 

With the 335kw tune plus the Jonny tig IC I was getting coolant warning after 3-4 mins but ambient temp was less than 20. Undertray was not installed so that might have contributed. 

 

At the moment I'm thinking my options are, switch to a plazmaman 700 or 800hp tube and fin cooler, get it retuned and try my luck with a pwr radiator (could insulate the end tanks to avoid contact?), or, see if jonny tig could make me a customer cooler minus the stepped top section, which would open up the radiator to more air flow. I'm not sure why intercoolers on these cars are so tall, but I'd hope a good quality lower section would still be able to handle ~330 on track and ~360 on street? 

[arronm]

The intercooler should have no influence on the radiator  position.

 

You should still be able to install PWR RAD with any cooler as cooler depth increases towards the front of the car.