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That would appear to be a low amount of boost for 307 rwkw, that the type of situation I would like to be in. What is your intact setup like?

Scotty

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  • Member For: 17y 5m 3d
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that's a nice amount of power. I am too just about to roll my BAmkii in for its first power upgrade. I was told that I am expected about 285ish (no exhaust). It was an extra $2200 for an exhaust to get around 330ish. I think that I could get a better price on the exhaust at a later stage.

My concern is the clutch. Do people have this problem or do they wait to it to f&%k up before replacing? What kind of power do you need to change the clutch? I am sure that all cars are different, but an approx ball park?

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  • Member For: 17y 6m 14d
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I have a similar problem to you Doolz, about to go in for the next round of mods, expecting 300+RWKW on standard clutch.. I expect clutch will slip on max power. Most clutches are starting to go at about 270RWKW from what I have heard. My plan at this stage is to get it all tuned and sorted then get a Mal Wood option 3 when I have the cash. Until that point, just dont bury the boot and go max throttle in anything above 3rd gear and it should hold up alright as long as you dont abuse it... same with anything, its how you drive it I guess. But you will be losing a bit of power on the dyno due to clutch slip at that power level I would guess..

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clutch can hold, it just depends how you drive... Rapid has 300rwkw+ and is still on his standard clutch

I replaced mine before I went for big power, I felt there was no point having the power if I could not use it. I hghly recomend the option 3... it may be the only clutch I have used but it has been in my car for a year and I have not had a problem with it once

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  iTec said:
clutch can hold, it just depends how you drive... Rapid has 300rwkw+ and is still on his standard clutch

I replaced mine before I went for big power, I felt there was no point having the power if I could not use it. I hghly recomend the option 3... it may be the only clutch I have used but it has been in my car for a year and I have not had a problem with it once

that's true, but its a fine line between the clutch slipping and holding.

It wont hold in 4th or above at anything UNDER 3800 rpm... which is no good giving it some boot on the freeway at 100.

1st 2nd and 3rd and fine, so power runs through the gears changing at 5800 are ok.

My advise is to not follow what I do and buy a good super strong clutch :)

I can get around it for now, but it would drive anyone else nuts lol

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  • Member For: 17y 5m 3d
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Thanks for the clutch info guys. Been a great help.

I suppose that I will be running 280ish for a start. I have budgeted money for a new one so if it goes or I am sick of it, can replace it.

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  • Member For: 20y 1m 24d
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  Hazey said:
Got my Car retuned by Jim after fitting the APS Exhaust I picked up 2nd hand

Previous Mods

2nd CAI

Injectors

Valve Springs

Processwest Intercooler Stage 1

HD Clutch

=======

286rwkw

With the Addition of Exhaust and Retune = 327rwkw on street tune and 336rwkw for Race Tune

Attached is graph of the Street and Race Tune.

Boost is at 13.5psi

post-1750-1200520828_thumb.jpg

Cant believe the difference in power! there is just so much top end power. Highly Recommend Jim at Tunehouse, he does know his stuff

Nice result, Jim and the boys do a great job, I'm still running the same tune he did 18 months ago and its still running great. I think if I go for anymore power I will need a rebuild of the auto and invest to much cash, plus being on 2 points is not going to help.

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ffs..... I got to get me a new ZORST... I run a 3" Xforse front to back which I am told isnt much better than stock. I already have 300+ rwkw but if I can get a little more or even the same amount with less boost (14psi) then I think it will be well worth it.

I am trying to hold out for the Nizpro 4" system but I haven't much about it since Simon made me aware of it aroudn a month ago.

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