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12FEAR

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: CQ

yea well I was hoping I could find a second hand set lol I dont think I could justify spending all that money on new tires and only heading to the drags maybe a few times a year

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  • Member For: 17y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Mackay

Hi Guys,

Tony from P.R.E Dyno here.

It is good to hear so many people who love their Ford Turbo's. I'm not plugging the business just thought I would pop on and say Hi.

To answer a previous question someone asked about pushing a BA/BF engine to the limit. Anything over 300RWKW's is putting your

car into an area that can pop your motor very easy. So you have to make sure you get a tuner that knows what they are doing. Dave has pushed a

standard BA 2003 engine to 460RWKW's this engine had over 100k on the clock. I knew the previous owner who gave it a thrashing as well. So as long

as the tune is done right these motors can take a lot. But just remember you have to listen to your car and make sure it's not making any funny noises.

Once you go over the 300 make, driving around with the windows up and sterio blasting flogging the hell out of your car can end up being a very expensive drive. Once you get a powerful tune drive the car around for a few weeks and get to know it. Try differnet thing like, a hard run on a hot day going up a hill. This will load up your motor and give you an idea how hard you can push it. If you hear pinging, BACK OFF. Pinging is the detonation of fuel, it sounds like a metalic rattle or tapping noise. Detonation can destroy your motor in seconds. This is caused by too little fuel, too much timing or too high intake temperature. This also leads to making sure you choose the right combination of upgrades as well.

One other important thing to remember, ask questions. Never feel stupid about asking, I have been doing XR6 Turbo's for a few years now and I still ask stupid questions. Things change so quikely with these vehicle and things we are doing this month may not be the same next month. eg, If I told you 2 years ago we would see a stock BA motor run 9.9 seconds you would have laugh at me.

Always ask questions.

TK

Edited by XRSIX-T
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  • Member For: 16y 4m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

You said to always ask questions... how long should a tune last, I would assume that as the car ages, does more k's and wears, that the tune would need to be adjusted, maybe every 9 to 12 months, is this correct? I also understand that when one is to ASSUME it can make an ASS out of U and Me. hence the query.

Cheers.

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  • Member For: 16y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone

I trust tony 100% with my car that's why its still sitting in his workshop in mackay. They do all the work for me and cant complain at all but everyone has their own favourite place so I wont brag to much.

umm my list of mods I will try to remember as its been a long build up:

BF mk1, 6 speed manual, 50k's on the clock

mods so far

driveline: hybrid clutch it started off as mal wood stage three then upgraded, fully adjustable coilover suspension

go fast bits: process west stage 2 kit (cooler, cold air intake, crossover piping), atomic valve springs, 60lb deka injectors, 12lb wastegate actuator, two fuel pumps one walbaro intank and one bosch 044 with process west surge tank, 5 inch cat and single 3.5 inch exhuast, dave aka blueboost tuned.

that's the general idea of whats in it now and if I remember anything else I will put it up. they did have it to 380rwkw @ 20psi but like mattyb says they tune it back so its not so much on the limit but still a seriously fast car.

carl

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  • Member For: 17y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Mackay

Hi Matt,

As your motor gets older fatigue will take it's toll on engine parts. So if your talking a 350 RWKW tune then there will come a time to start de-tuning the engine. The good thing so far is we are seeing more and more 100k plus vehicle still happily pushing out 300+ at the wheels. But the standard rule applies, treat your motor well and it will last a long time, flog the living SH#T out of it and it will cost you. My car has a motor with only 39,000 on it but the driveline and the rest of the car has around 109,000 k's on it. I had the auto checkout a few weeks ago and everything is running well. I sold my old motor which had 98,000K's on it and it is now in a mates car pushing out 387RWKW's and loving it. One of the things people don't like doing is spending money. But remember the better the bolton's you buy the easier it is on your motor.eg Stall Convertor, Induction Kit, Actuator and exhaust ............

A must is good OIL and a friction modifier I use Nulon's E20. If you are giving your car a hard time change the oil every 5,000.

I hope this answers your question in a round about way.

TK

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  • RUS531
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  • Member For: 18y 2m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

Nice to hear carl!! we're gonna have to catch up when im in gladdy. Not coming this week end but probably on my next days off! so a fortnight

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  • Member For: 15y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: CQ

Can anyone tell me anything about a 01 wrk number plate "SPIKES" lived around rocky I am pretty sure, all built motor, gearbox ect sounds the goods a mate just bought it. Just wonder if anyone knows anything about it

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  • RUS531
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 2m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

I've seen the car a few times while I was out on a thursday night... it looks like a nice rig. sounds like its got straight cuts too.

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  • Member For: 16y 4m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

cheers tony, I'm running the Penrite semi-synthetic 10W50 in the car, I've only had the car for 4 months, and am about 5000k's off my next change. But I'm learning, there is a lot of difference between cars and bikes... mainly the costs in parts. I'm looking at a short motor for the future, ford in Biloela quoted me $2200 for a New 2006 F6 Typhoon complete short motor, delivered to me in emerald. that's my first option, other than that it'd be an atomic short motor. Looking to make a reliable 400kw, and compeditive high 10s to low 11s street driven car.

Matt.

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