Cracked Fog Light

[Cashie]

What's the answer to all these cracked fog lights?

I was putting off getting some of that 3M stick-on stuff, now I think I will get it ASAP.

Do we have a definate Hella stock number to get the lens with?

I know it was mentioned in another post about saving money and buying a lens from Autobarn but the actual part number wasn't mentioned......

[Guest 56Mainline]

I've replaced my cracked original Ford fog light insert with a driving light insert.

Both are Hella parts.

Ignore everything both Ford and Hella tell you. For example. Both company's said "Even though the fog light has Hella stamped on the lense it is specially made under order to Ford & available only through Ford".

This is only true for the black plastic bracket that holds the light insert in place and allows adjustment of the beams direction.

The light insert consists of the glass lense and the reflector.

The Hella Part Number for the Fog Light Insert is 9.1113.01.

The Hella Part Number for the Driving Light Insert is 9.1313.01.

Both come complete with the 55w halogen globe.

These lights are actually known in the Hella range as "Comet FF 200 Series" lights & are available as full kits for upright or pendant mounting.

[Guest 56Mainline]

Oh yeah. The cost was only $47 + GST for either light insert.

Also available is a Hella Clear Protective Cover (part #8144) that suits the Comet 200 series. I ordered one to trial (cost $10.45). It is a hard plastic with a couple of clear rubber pads that sit between the glass & the cover. Also has 4 tabs that hook over the lense to keep it in place.

DO NOT GET THESE CLEAR PROTECTIVE COVERS.

There is not enough clearance between the light and the bodywork to fit these protective covers. Putting the covers on either before or after retruning the light to the original position doesn't make a difference.

Some serious carving into the plastic bodywork of the front spoiler is required to make them fit. And that sort of mod would be very obvious & not at all pretty....

Anyone want to buy a new, never used, still in box, clear plastic Hella cover?

[Guest 56Mainline]

One more thing...

Before someone asks the question re fitting a driving light insert......

I also fitted a 4 pin 40amp relay. Now the 'fog lights' don't come on unless BOTH the dash switch is on and the high beam is active.

Only needed one relay. Fitted to near the engine bay fuse box. Had to remove the battery, battery box, radiator overflow container, to get enough room to remove the top of the fuse box, to access all the wires under the relays/fuses that are so easy to see.

Driving light fitted to driver's side, foggy to passenger side.

[Cashie]

Thanks for the great info..

Have you got any more info on the wiring of the relay?

That is a great idea wiring them to the highbeam.

Was there much difference between the fog and driving light inserts with light spread and output etc?

This is the link for the hella catalogue.

[ASNU]

I was getting my car serviced yesterday and they suggested that they fit this clear quite thick stick on cover to my foglights as so many XRs had come in with smashed lights.As someone suggested its maybe the 3M stuff but all they do is cut it to size and stick it in.What a quick and easy fix.Very impressed and the good thing you cant see it at all.

I must not spend to much time at the dealer but as they also suggested a a full S/S insert to be fitted in front of the intercooler so next friday that's going to happen.Looking forward to that as like the look of the GTP one.

[Guest 56Mainline]

The fog & driving lights are worlds apart in lighting.

The driving light throws a concentrated beam to about 300m. Reflective light off road signs etc to maybe 500m. Great on long flat stretches. BUT, the driving light mounted in the original fog light bracket isn't ideal. It is too low for optimum light spread. But is satisfactory.

The fog light installed on the passenger side improves up-close light immediately left & right of the car. Excellent for twisting winding roads. Allows you to see further 'round the corner. Also improves the ability to spot wildlife/roos everywhere else.

[Guest 56Mainline]

Getting to the wire on the back of the engine bay fuse box is painful. As I said in an earlier post, you need to move alot of gear to make room to allow you to flip the relay/fuse panel to access the wiring & loom at the back of the panel.

Identify both the foglight & highbeam relays in the fuse box panel.

On the back of the foglight relay and attached to relay pin #1 is a light blue wire. This is the incoming supply that is active when both the dash switch and parking lights are on. I cut this wire & extended the dash switch end to the new relay pin #3 or 87 (depending what brand of 4 pin relay you use).

Then attached a wire from the new relay pin #5 (or 30) back to the original light blue wire attached to foglight relay pin #1.

Now, off the back of the highbeam relay are two wires coloured the same (green/brown striped). These are active when the high beam is selected (you can test using mutimeter or test lamp). I spliced into one of these two wires & ran the new wire to the new relay pin #1 (or 86). Then ran a wire from the new relay pin #2 (or 85) to ground.

I drilled a hole in the shock tower between the radiator overflow reservior & the brake master cylinder, to mount the new relay. The new wires from the back of the fuse box panel were run through a hole drilled into the base of the fuse box, then under the overflow reservior to the new relay, and all wrapped in black electrical tape for a neat finish (and it's mostly hidden).

Even if I wanted to have the foggies operate as they originally did, you only need to disconnect & join the wires on the new relay from pins #3 & 5 (or 87 & 30). Of course you would also need to replace any driving light insert with a fog light insert!

Hope that helps. It sounds complicated but is really quite simple once you get into it. Just test your circuits as you go ith a test lamp to confirm the wires.

[Turbo6man]

There is really no need to remove the battery and all that other work you did to access the fuse box - a bit of hard looking and perseverence will allow anyone who wants do do the job "from the top" - I have already posted instructions on this topic many months ago - if anyone wants to do the search (I couldn't be bothered as I've already done the work) you will save yourself a lot of time and trouble.

[Cashie]

56Mainline> Thanks for the "Mini-Tech" on the light wiring up.

Three more questions if that's ok:

- Where did you order your insert/s from?

- What's involved in replacing the inserts?

- Have you used anything to protect your lights(ie 3M stuff)?

Turbo6man> I have tried searching for your post but failed to find it...