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  • boosting
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  • Member For: 18y 11m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Glendene, Auckland NZ 0602
Looks good mate.

Can you measure from the ground to the center of the wheel arch lip front and back please?

I am still looking at the fronts, and want to know how much it will go down.

Sure bro,

Will do this tonight for ya.

the Fronts are AU super low Kings or maybe the super super lows? I will get the code for you also tonight.

Ride is good, a bit firmer and flatter, I have not got the rear bump stops cut so if you were to do that then maybe it will go even lower.

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  • boosting
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 11m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Glendene, Auckland NZ 0602

So I measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch

Front is 62cm

Rear is 64 cm

Could you tell me how much it is standard in the front? as you have lowered your back right?

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 2m 12d
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  • Location: New Zealand
So I measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch

Front is 62cm

Rear is 64 cm

Could you tell me how much it is standard in the front? as you have lowered your back right?

I measured mine - Herrod SSL Rear 63 cm (33 cm hub to guard) and standard front 66cm (36cm hub to guard).

Front the ground to the bottom of the sill is 16 cm rear and 17cm front. (The front wheel arch has a bigger opening than the rear.

I can get some of the AU SSL fronts for around $100 - but I think going down 4cm might be a little bit much for carpark buildings, especially if I ever get a F6 front one day. Maybe a 2cm drop might be a compromise, I guess someone with SLs in the front could measure? EDIT - I see Savage F6 has KFFL-57/520 front (~345mm HTG) and KFRL-68SL rear (~355 HTG) - so for me to drop the front 15mm - the KFFL-57/520 seems to be the way to go.

If you go quick around a tight bend with SSL fronts and hit a bump - you must be very close to knocking the guard?

Edited by cobrav8
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  • Member For: 18y 6m 28d
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  • Location: Perth, NOR

Ive noticed the front guards on our cars almost appear to be rolled from the factory, which was nice of them. I think the clearance in them is plenty good.

  • boosting
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  • Member For: 18y 11m 15d
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  • Location: Glendene, Auckland NZ 0602

Hmmm, well I haven't been tooo quick around real tight corners its kind of hard to say really, but from what corners I have driven its been ok and not rubbed.

I have seen some mates cars (with the likes of civics on coil overs) rub a lot when driving slowly in to parks and you can hear the rubbing. I dont seem to have this problem welll maybe I have the stereo up to loud LOL

I think if you got bigger rims, say 19" and larger it will bring the car up a bit more. so if you ever got the F6 front you will be sweet.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Three pedals are better then two..
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  • Member For: 18y 10d
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  • Location: Melbourne

Just a quick one about springs, I wanna put SSL's on the back do I just swap the springs or is there somthing else I need to do? Also it's on 18's atm will the same springs be fine for 19's or 20's?

Cheers

Dillon

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yeah, rear springs are pretty much an in - out job, springs and shocks are seperate, only the front are coil-over type

  • Three pedals are better then two..
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yeah, rear springs are pretty much an in - out job, springs and shocks are seperate, only the front are coil-over type

So you don't need shocks to lower it.

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yeah, you can lower the car without changing the shocks, but if you lower it too much, the standard shocks won't like it, the handling will become a bit more jumpy, as the shock is already compressed and wants to push back harder, don't get me wrong, this is what I have in my car, its fine for a while, but you will be better off to get new shocks matched to the height of your car, will tie the car down a bit better.

Remember, whenever you do a suspension upgrade, you will lose some of your ride quality!

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