Bf F6 Engine

[Guest]

Ok so here it is, I'm looking at achieving around 400rwkw in the very near future and I need to upgrade my bottom end as I have a mk1 BA. I've looked into a few options already which are all proven combinations but they're a little more than I wanted to spend if I can help it.

So my question is what can a BF F6 engine handle with the factory rods & pistons etc? I'd suspect it would be under what I need due to pistons so what about if I put a set of mahle's in? The reason I'm asking is because I can get a brand new Short motor off a mate for a steal, so I could end up getting out of it pretty cheap

Any feedback/suggestions on either my questions or alternative engine choices I could consider around $4k - $5k would be great.

Thanks

[iTec]

billsta makes about 430rwkw in his F6 (auto) and it has stock internals from what I can remember...

[Billsta]

There's alot of boys running between 350-380rwkw with not too many issues.

One tornado let go at 375rwkw though that seemed to do alot of track work.

Another in quensland with over 400 let go but was due to 'apparent' bad tuning.

I run close to 390 daily (14psi) and over 420 (18psi) on the weekends, I've had this for about six months. As some will say time will tell.

And I know that Xtreme F6 had his bottom end looked at when he upgraded from 400rwkw and there was no damage.

There's a few things to consider;

How much boost will you be running? anything over 18psi is dangerous in my opinion.

What type of set up you'll have to make that power.

If it's cheap buy it and see how you go.

[Guest]

I'm not too sure about the boost but I'd be guessing around 18psi after the threads/results I've been reading. My daily tune will be more like 350 - 380 on 15psi or less if possible but I just want the ability to go 400+ on dyno days etc. As for setup, I've got the Plazmaman 12k plenum kit, turbo/wastegate mod, nizpro drilled injectors, cobra valve springs, walbro pump (to be upgraded with bosch 044 and swirl pot), 4" cat & dump, and an XFT sticker on the window

With these other ones that let go, what was it that actually broke? Was it pistons? To be safe I'd probably go with a set of Mahle's and some billet oil pump gears but other than that I can't see too much wrong with the factory specs.

It's not that cheap that I'd buy it and hope for the best (I'm still a uni student so don't have truck loads of money to burn) so I just want to gather as much info as I can and make an informed decision from there. I know there's no guarantees but atleast I can get a close answer of the max power they can handle and that will sway me one way or the other.

Thanks alot for the replies so far, and keep them coming

[Billsta]

I've heard two cases of the piston no 5 failing.

[Phoontastic]

I think it depends on the tune and how you drive it. If you have a good tune (no detonation), using good fuel, changing the oil regularly with good oil, not caning it straight after start up, and driving (generally) sensibly you should be fine at 400rwkw. If these criteria are proving difficult to meet then I'd think again. Simon gave me 400rwkw the other day and it feels like a stocker...most of the time.

[Guest]

So you're still on the standard bottom end then? If I don't see a 'blew my engine' thread in the next few weeks posted by you, I'll probably end up going for it.

As for the tune, it's being taken care of by Simon (XFT) along with all other work/mods so I have no doubt it will be quality

Car always gets run on BP ultimate which is the highest octane and best quality fuel we have in WA. It also gets serviced every 7500kms with royal purple oils.

I drive my car pretty hard most of the time but never straight after start up so that shouldn't be a problem. Also, I wouldn't drive with the 400 tune as my daily. It would be more like 350 - 380 for everyday use, and the monster tune would be for the track and dyno days etc.

So my thinking is that as the pistons seem to be the weak point, if I swap them out it will be a pretty tough bottom end and then with billet oil pump gears it should be pretty fail safe. As long as I can source some decent slugs and the pump gears at a reasonable price, I should see change from $5k and I'll still have my original bottom end for when I get rid of the car

[AzMahoony]

hurry up Dean, before September comes!!

[blueboost]

for the price, you would not do pistons with out rods, they are both on borrowed time at that level.

and oil pump gears would be on my list to.

David

[Guest]

Ok then, I thought the stock rods would of been ok but I suppose what you're saying makes sense... a little spent now saves a lot spent later!

What's a good piston/rod combo to go with? I'd like to keep it as quiet as possible but price and durability come first. If it has to have a bit of piston slap then so be it, as long as it isn't going to shatter on me