Factory Software Max's

[aiboart]

We know that there is driveline protection systems built into the factory software. These are the so-called abuse modes or torque tags that intervene to protect the driveline when certain conditions are met.

The question is then, are there modes of operating the car using the standard factory software that will allow it to operate above its rated levels of power and torque? Are there styles of driving that will invoke or allow over boost functions or other torque and power boosting modes of operation? Can you ‘sneak’ up on the PCM or be nice to it and thereby and generating higher than specified sustained accelerations (torques)? Are there for want of a better term overboost modes and anti tag modes?

It seems that this may be the case though perception is a tricky thing and the B-meter is no substitute for the G-Tech. Nevertheless, there are certain acceleration profiles that seem (loaded word I know) to produce higher than specified sustained accelerations (torques) through (all?) gear(s) and right out to indeterminate velocities.

Ok so the hard evidence at this time is thin. Apart from the perception, the objective evidence is that the rear end scrabbles for grip and the car is fairly sitting and squirming on it tail and stays that way. The 2-3-(4?) up changes on the 4 speed auto break traction (momentarily as TC is on) on warm 17” SP3000’s and even warm 17” Sport Maxx’s. Shift firmness will no doubt plays a part in the behavior of the car’s traction on the up shift, however and more significantly, the fact is the rear is scrambling around looking for grip in (all?) gear(s) and all the way to whatever velocity.

I can think of some reasons as to why this may be the case. The initial part of the of the low stress acceleration run basically flushes the IC and induction system of heat and so the advance goes up, boost has time to build, the slow throttle openings allow intake air velocities to stay high, some ram air effect – yada-yada. The fact remains though that using another acceleration technique, say applying full throttle quickly and allowing time for the system to stabilize to generate its full complement of 450 Nm by building boost and flushing heat just doesn’t generate the same effect any where in the run.

When I get the G-Tech back, I will see if I can get to a track to check the acceleration gradients.

What do you people think?

Throttle application profile

Apply or ease throttle to the point where further application does not seem to generate a torque increase. Thence increase throttle slowly as torque seems available, – do not open the throttle without the corresponding torque making itself evident. It may help to dwell throttle application around 2000RPM before advancing as per above.

Keep moving the throttle so that the auto stays in the lowest possible gear and does not up shift into a cruise mode but otherwise move it as slowly as possible, until about 3500 RPM, thence open throttle promptly but do not floor it.

Other Parameters

98 or 100 Octane fuel (Shell in this case)

4-speed auto BA XR6T

Adaptive mode or Sports mode both seem to work but somewhat differently

TC is left on

Fuel load – anything over 1/3 tank.

Regards,

aa

[Headsex]

feeding the power on with the pedal does give better acceleration than slamming it open with the standard ford calibration..

that's how you sneak up on the transmission truncation torque tables...

there are also shift torque reductions that you cannot manipulate with driving, its always there between gear changes in a auto..

but, I dont see where your going with this.. all custom tunes are able to address this, and disable them

danny.

[aiboart]

Thanks Danny,

You solved it in the first two sentences.

The fact that, '...feeding the power on with the pedal does give better acceleration than slamming it open with the standard ford calibration...', would come as a surprise to many and possibly the majority of XR6T owners I imagine.

Regards,

aa

[01txr]

Ok trying to follow your topic and just wondering if my problems at the moment are due to having traction and the driveline sensors have gone into protective mode.

My car was orig a T5 BA XR6 with 275rwkw pre X-Force exhaust.

Mods include Injectors,Valve springs, fuel pump, excede clutch and custom flash tuned.

Car was running 19x265x30 nankangs and would turn the tyre's on boost 1st and 2nd gear with traction light coming on and not doing anything for stopping wheel spin, you could not turn TC off unless you turned car off and restarted.

Now with the proxy 4 Toyo's it is on thee edge on breaking traction through boost in 1st and the TC light just flickers.

I had been driving for a week or 2 when 4am one morning gave if a boot full in 3rd and boost skiped to 21psi due to cold air (normally runs at the 12 psi throughout the day) and all was fine till the next squirt where it started to pop and carry on.

The car has not returned to normal even after reflashing tune.

Do you think it may have tripped a protection sensor and is stopping me from WOT accelleration.

I can get it to rev cleanly if I slowly apply the throttle or when it starts popping ease off and then re floor it.

What do you think?

[Headsex]

Problem with the traction control was only designed to stop wheelspin from a 240kw motor.. Your producing over 340kw at the engine now..

With nankangs, face it, they have no traction what so ever, so the car wheelspins easy.. Part of the traction control system is to only attempt to control wheelspin by heavilty retarding spark and pulsing the back breaks for X seconds.. If it finds its not doing that, and or the acceleration of the wheels is increasing not decresing, It gives up and logs a failure code.. Hense the requirement to turn car off and back on again to unfreeze the light.

The main reason for this is excessive spark retard, especially in a turbo vehicle causes the EGT to go through the roof, and that aint exactly a good thing for prolonged periods of time.

Now that you have better grippy tyres, your finding the degree of wheelspin you have now is less due to the increased grip, and Traction control is able to control it (everytime it flickers its pulling spark timing out, and clamping the rear brakes depending on how excessive th wheelspin is)

21psi due to cold air (normally runs at the 12 psi throughout the day)

Ahh, the pleasures of Open Duty cycle controlled boost........

Get your car retuned by a tuner who knows how to tune with closed boost control.. Your boost "Should" remind the same regardless of the time of day, or more importantly the air density/tempreture.

danny.