Power Happy Median

[TUFXRT6]

yeap I wouldnt mind knowing the answer also.

My thoughts are that its easier to take off in an auto because you dont have to pop the clutch & risk frying tyres

[PDIDDY]

I think you're right. It's a lot easier to move off in an auto than a manual, especially for someone that is unfamiliar with the car.

[SCRIBR]

Well id have to agree. Having only had my power for a few days, I won’t be letting anybody drive it on this tune! flashing in the low boost tune for sure

an auto would be better in that aspect for sure. BUT that also brings me back to the point of the gear kick down.. if somebody drives your auto and is unfamiliar with power.. and the stick the foot in to overtake or whatever, in an auto you don’t really have the control?

[F6 RAPID]

An auto would smooth out the power delivery a little. I would also think that my power in an auto would be a little less brutal and easier just to toddle around in. You only need to breathe on the throttle in the lower gears in mine for it to just tear to the revlimit in wheelspin.

I would love to see what the 6 speed ZF would feel like behind my motor........ for the ten minutes it would probably last.

[SLVRXRT]

I agree on “learning how to dive it with more power " I had my T custom tuned last week. With a few mods it went from 250kw atw to 293 kw atw. Its nearly impossible to get off the line "in a hurry". I tried traction on and off on many occasions, it still manages to spin up very easy 1st and 2nd. Maybe the Auto's are less agressive ?.

[SCRIBR]

I think the excessively high ratio in 1st n 2nd gear doesnt help us off the line!!!

[TUFXRT6]

To answer your question about kick down scribr.

I have heard alot of the big pony boys with auto's can only drive in manual mode so the car doesnt kick down unexpectedly.

[RAP1D]

I might give some insight into how mine drives as it has pretty much the common amount of power, 315.

Its a 6pd manual, tuned to 14psi levelling out on 13psi. The intake system is extremely efficient so boost hits very fast and very hard, the exhaust flows well for this level too, considering lol.

I can drive around on this tune in the wet without any issues, as long as the throttle is only under 1/4 and changing at under 3000, this is due to the timing which isnt very aggressive down low... I'm not keen on bending rods.

In the dry, I can take off standing start on low revs, nail it and it will pull until just under 3000 where it instantly hits 14psi and goes spastic, so I usually grab 2nd and hold the throttle at 1/2 till they spin up again... the rip shifter is great for staying on boost, but this doesnt help with wheelspin in 1st 2nd changes.

If the tyres are nice and warm they may grip at 1/2 throttle through 2nd, and as the revs get up over 4500 I can give it full throttle and hold it to 6000 without spinning. I'd say this is due to the fact the motor has gone over its huge torque at 20-4500 and as boost drops one psi it seems to want to grip enough to hold to 6000.

A fast bang into 3rd at 6000 brings the revs down to 4000 but holds good boost which flicks back to max instanty. The result is no wheelspin in 3rd driving like this... and no clutch slip from the standard clutch.

Same again into 4th, then 5th then...I stop looking at the speedo ( circuit, not the street )

A while ago, when this power, in this car, was new to me I'd allways change at 5000 which resulted in the motor dropping back into the middle of the torque and if in 2nd, big time wheel spin, 3rd and 4th was huge clutch slip if I did it more than twice so at the drags my times were crap and I gave up.

Now I've figured out the new way to drive, rev to 6k ect and its a totally different car... it flys and leaves alot of other 300kws Ts behind.

So I spose its not really the number on the dyno print out, but they way the power is delivered, and the way that you, the driver, use that power.

So, that's my car on the road, which is alot differently set up to the most of the 300kw Ts on here, but you get the idea anyway

[JP300]

So I spose its not really the number on the dyno print out, but they way the power is delivered, and the way that you, the driver, use that power.

I agree. Mine is an auto 4sp and I have gone through stages where the car has constently improved its drivability, the power it delivers on the dyno and this has resulted in incremental improvements down the quarter.

The kick down is a killer !! When the standard stally was modified the kickdown from 80 - 120ks would result in the car going into 2nd and instant wheelspin. The trick is to anticipate when it is going to do this and expect to have to correct the rear end !! At the current power and torque level the car now does this in 3rd running in manual mode. (not used to this yet!)

Where is the happy median? ... That is up to the individual. Some guys like the sideways action and do not mind hangin it out every now and again, Others that are not used to the torque & power get a shock when it all happens seemingly out of nowhere.

Actually it is the torque that I beliieve is more dangerous ...

Conditions are also a big factor ... the standard 190 odd rwkw is dangerous in the wet.

The key is to drive to the conditions and within your own safe comfort zone ....

[RAP1D]

Yep, hanging the arse out now and then is alot of fun. But the abillity to control it and know when to expect it is safer than having it just go bang and swing out on you mid corner without wanting it too

Edited 28/06/07 12:14 PM by RAP1D