Engine Kaboom Any Ideas Where To Look?

[Power]

Mate, I'm the most verbose fella I know - lol!

I believe the T is rock solid. Moreso in later models, and moreso in BF/Typhoon (LPG rods). But my personal opinion is that this is not the issue.

If you are considering modifications just ensure they are done right by the right people and you will also be...right! If it isn't right, take it back until it is right, even if this means every other day, or for long periods of time as may occur. If you don't maybe you could end up with a situation like mine which is probably nothing at all to do with all the BS in this thread and my following posts.

All your other answers are in the thread. To clarify, no I did not 'fang' it prior or after the round-a-bout.

I'll no doubt have more info at a later date with extensive photography and item by item engineering reports by accredited independent engineers. I believe it will be an interesting post. Some time yet.

Gonna let it sleep for now, a sleeping rabid dog sort of sleep.

In any case, all I really wanted to know was where to look, I looked, 'it' isn't there any more, not any of it. Topic has gone askew, asked and answered with thanks to all who helped - which was everyone! Cheers all!

Edited 21/06/07 02:21 AM by Dagabond

[RAP1D]

Alot advance timing and boost in the mid rpm range is what puts the most stress on rods, this is common with most

factory turbo motors, but more so in ours as the large cc of the motor can get boost rising very quickly and early on the revs.

Do you have an accurate boost gauge?

Its common to see more boost these cold days and if your accuator loosing its strength, you may have given it 20psi without knowing it... I saw mine hit 18psi this morning

Fuel starvation is a serious consideration. We have very poor pick ups in the tanks, it doesnt need completely starve the motor, just a drop in fuel pressure can lean the motor out.

Timing wont retard as much in the cold weather either so the tune is going to be different to how it was in the warm dyno shop.

So no point blaming the tuner ( not that anyone is ), My opinion is a combination of the above is what ended the motor.

Good luck with the rebuild... looks like the perfect excuse to build a tuff motor and go for 400

[Asymmetry]

that's a serious punch through the block hope insurance sorts its out

also have you considered that may have been a fault with the engine and these conditions just put it over the edge? heard of a few XR6T having retainer springs, piston seals put on the wrong way and causing engine blows of lightly modified engines. Though water ingestion sounds likely, wouldn't of thought it result in something like this, people use water injection to minmise knock at high boost pressures.

Edited 19/06/07 01:28 AM by Asymmetry

[Ninka]

I'll try to be kind here - BUT, what are you on about

I have argued for a long time that using Mk1 internals on anything more than 10psi, and in some cases less than that, you run a serious risk of breaking a rod and destroying the engine.

Claims that stock Mk1 rods are 'safe to 350 - 400 rwkw' are just ridiculous, as many have let go at far less power than that, causing substantial damage to the engine, and runnig the risk of setting the car on fire due to the oil spilled over the exhaust.

If more than 250 rwkw are chased in a BA Mk1 rod equipped car, the rods should be upgraded, as an absolute minimum to F6 rods, but ideally to billet type rods, and you will be pretty safe to about 350-375 rwkw when standard pistons start to become a risk, though not as serious as a rod breaking, this will still require an engine teardown and repair.

Over 350-375 rwkw, only proper racing components (billet rods and forged pistons) are safe, and consideration should be given to the oil pump gears as well, as quite a few of these have broken at high rpm as well.

A good tune is obviously essential

If the changes are not made to the engine, well good luck to you, as it may last, or it may not, I guess you will find out all of a sudden

[Asymmetry]

^sorry wasn't aware the series 1 rods couldn't handle such power. I'm use to hearing 300rwkw being achievable on an XR6T with bolt ons and tune.

[jcooke]

from what I've seen and read, mark 1 internals have a question mark. Running anywhere up to 320rw will break eventually, but nowhere near as quick as 350+ but lets be real, its all about how its driven. There's fellas, and girls, that run 260rw that drive hard most of the time and break em where others with 300+ drive normal with the odd stab and last for yonks.

[XR06T]

always going to be a risk though.. I'd like my car to be able to stand up to a flogging all day every day, incase I feel that way inclined!

safer to assume that your car is going to be one of the weaker ones, than have it pop when you need to get to work..

I think that allan has given some very good advice.

[jcooke]

indeed, but powers a drug man. I run 320rw and neeeeed more. Its beyond a must, its a need now. Just ask some of the 400+ boys, they start with the same 240fw.....

[Guest EGOXRT]

Don't know if Mk1 Or Mk11 are any different but check his sig out

XR6T MkII 2005 Auto: Rapid, APS Phase II+, Process West Intercooler, Wastegate mods, Walbro Fuel Pump, HD valve springs & shift kit.

Installed, tuned, serviced by Autotech - 303rwkw

[Geeseman]

I was running mark 1 rods modified for over 25K at highest power 317rwkw in an auto. When the engine was removed the rods looked fine. I have since upgraded them.

I think that with engine modifications you need to expect that anything may go wrong. I'm sure there are probably a few mk 2 and BF cars that have had issues under 300rwkw> in the end it's just unfortunate luck of the draw.