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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

Ok Iam looking at building a new stronger motor for my 2003 XR6T.

I want to put my original motor aside, purchase a good running std Falcon engine.

Pull it down fit it with better rods, pistons and valve springs and use my original camshafts.

Other than what I have mentioned, is there any differance in valve's, porting, combustion chamber size/shape, or any strength issue's with std block.

I will be looking at around 350 - 400 rwkw.

Would there be any other requirements to do to get this up to strength.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 11m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Mackay NorthQueensland

you will be able to use your block, and crank, but the head will have to be used because the turbo head has better valves.

David

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 22y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
  01txr said:
Ok Iam looking at building a new stronger motor for my 2003 XR6T.

I want to put my original motor aside, purchase a good running std Falcon engine.

Pull it down fit it with better rods, pistons and valve springs and use my original camshafts.

Other than what I have mentioned, is there any differance in valve's, porting, combustion chamber size/shape, or any strength issue's with std block.

I will be looking at around 350 - 400 rwkw.

Would there be any other requirements to do to get this up to strength.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Exhaust valves are different, and will cost you about $1000 to replace for the 12 of them :spoton:

Springs and cams are also different, but basic casting is the same.

Since breaking one of my exhaust valves last Wednesday at the drags, I have been running a n/a head on my 'T', but the springs are p*ss weak, and as the valves are not Inconel like in the 'T', it has to be treated gently until I can get my original head repaired.

One more thing! If the n/a engine is a mk1 BA, then the block need to be checked for wall thickness, as some of these are thin due to core shift, and thus unsuitable fo high power applications.

  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 3d
  • Location: Geelong Victoria

Cams are the same between all engines. Block is the same but you need to use some turbo specific parts on a standard engine like the sump and the windage tray, which are a bit different. Head casting is the same but stuff like springs and valves are different, possibly hardened valve seats too. Ports are the same though.

  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 1m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Darwin, NT

just get a mk 2 onwards motor, strip it down, build it up, bolt up your turbo head (with good springs) to the strong short motor and away you go. :stupid:

Or even buy a short motor with all the gear from atomnic, all you need then is a set of springs.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 1d
  • Location: Brisbane

I am doing this exercise at present and am nearly ready to assemble. Most of what people have said here is correct.

Head is the same except exhaust valves and springs. It's true that OE valves are about $98 ea but I used Ferrera stainless ones ( which require new retainers) and got them for about half that and they are probably better. Seats are same.

Cams are same

Block and crank are same

It's a good point that VenomXR6 makes about the sump- I haven't looked at that. Is the only difference the oil drain line from the turbo or do you know of other diffs?

Get billet oil pump gears while you are at it as there are many stories on here of the stock ones failing.

I paid $800 for a complete n/a long motor from a wrecker with 38 000km's as a guide.

Edited by EXIT
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 22y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
  Venom XR6 said:
Cams are the same between all engines. Block is the same but you need to use some turbo specific parts on a standard engine like the sump and the windage tray, which are a bit different. Head casting is the same but stuff like springs and valves are different, possibly hardened valve seats too. Ports are the same though.

I would probably dispute the 'Cams are the same' statement, based on a head swap I just did :roflmbo:

Car drives differently with n/a cams, more low down grunt, and part number engraved on the cams are different.

Lift height appear to be the same, but cam duration and overlap may be different.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 1d
  • Location: Brisbane

That's interesting. Any chance that you could check the part no.s and post them? Sonds like it's all back together?

I checked with the parts guys at my local Ford dealer and was told there was only one part no. for the cams. Seems counterinuitive though, would have thought that the turbo cam would be different.

When I pull the T motor out of my car I will double check this.

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 22y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

I may be wrong on this, but the numbers on the n/a cams were definitely different to the 'T' cams, so what that means is anyones guess.

I can't check it just now, as the n/a cams are in the engine, and not readily assessible.

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 7m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Aww come on now Allan, with the amount of practice you have had you should be able to pop downstairs at lunch, time whip the rocker cover off, grab the part numbers off the cams, and whack a set of cobra springs in before you coffee even gets cold surely.....?

:spoton:

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