Dont Laugh But Just Found Out How To Change Gears !

[bad inferno]

I used to back off the accelerator all the way and then back on to match the revs as I engage the clutch...It seems I do not need to back the accelerator off all the way now.....I am not suggesting to do this under heavy acceleration....it just seems to help match the revs again as you change up.

How can this be harder on your gearbox..?

[45T-XR]

  bad inferno said:

I've owned the Manual 6 speed T for a couple of years and just worked out I can push the clutch in without taking my foot of the accelerator. Supose this is drive by wire stuff...The last manual I owned (ok 20 years ago with twin side draft webbers) could never of done that without rev'n the guts out of the thing.

Its a lot smoother now changing gears in normal driving....Must try it with our Honda euro

The only reason it seems you are able to leave the accelerator pedal in slightly is because they falcon accelerator pedal is slightly "doughey" the first section of pedal travel has little effect on rpm, this was a popular convern when the BA's first come out. When the falcon first arrived at our dealership, and us mechanics got to test drive them we also found this, Im not sure why this occurs, and must be part of the calibration in the drivetrain operation, because I have used the wds on countless cars and monitored the signals from the accelerator pedal on all of them with the them all showing to work smoothly and progressively on the graph. Just one of those things I supose but I actually prefer it now with the sprung button clutch cause I can blip the throttle on take off and not have the car rev so high. It works quite well

cheers

Mic

[RAP1D]

With my Ripshifter I can bang into 2nd and 3rd without the clutch, changing above 5000 works best.

Flat chaning with the cluch works only at 6000... my clutch doesnt grip too well if the revs fall under 4000

[SavageF6]

  RAP1D said:

With my Ripshifter I can bang into 2nd and 3rd without the clutch, changing above 5000 works best.

Flat chaning with the cluch works only at 6000... my clutch doesnt grip too well if the revs fall under 4000

RAP1D, did you use the hard mount to fit the gearstick to the ripshift or the factory rubber mount? I've got a ripshift to go in, and I'd be keen to know what ya think of it driving around the traps.

Edited 03/06/07 02:17 AM by Spruce

[RAP1D]

Mine is a B&M ripshifter made for the US mustangs, so I had to mod it to fit.

But yeah, its a solid billet movment, not the crappy rubber/cast one. I shortened the factory stick a little and grinded/drilled it so it sit in the right spot.

Its the tightest shifter Ive come acrros and shifts very cleanly and fast

[RAP1D]

You have to drop th gearbox a few inches to fit it too

[SavageF6]

  RAP1D said:

Mine is a B&M ripshifter made for the US mustangs, so I had to mod it to fit.

But yeah, its a solid billet movment, not the crappy rubber/cast one. I shortened the factory stick a little and grinded/drilled it so it sit in the right spot.

Its the tightest shifter Ive come acrros and shifts very cleanly and fast

  RAP1D said:

You have to drop th gearbox a few inches to fit it too

Thanks for that mate

Edited 03/06/07 03:14 AM by Spruce

[XR06T]

op,

I know what you mean mate.. I was mucking around with this on the weekend an got my 1st chirp into 3rd with the 17's.. its hard to do right as with that thread I resurrected if you get it a bit wrong there is a limiter thing. you defn shouldn't be fully lifting off the throtle when changing as the drive by wire is a little doughy, and I get major clunks..

flat shifting makes the limiter thingo kick in but do it right, and yer away

[RAPHOON]

  bad inferno said:

Its a BA MKII and tried it on my Euro which is also drive by wire however sure enough it just rev'd out not like the XR6T

I'm not saying floor the accelerator however in normal driving just push the clutch and change gears, the revs stay the same until you engage the next gear.

Has you car got an edit?