Broke My T

[Ralph Wiggum]

Have you had a look at the throttle butterfly? its not bent and jammed from the backfire?..

[cv8z]

Hi Guys/gals

This is where im at,

Replace the full throttle body and all sensors (TPS and Stepper motor)

No difference

Now im geting the sh*ts as its starting to cost money and there is no real tests that can be done.

Come on T guys im sure there is more help out there

[cv8z]

BUMP BUMP

Come on guys

[tquarrell]

If there's no manifold pressure, it must be leaking.... Check the hoses connected to the manifold as suggested by xr6 typhoon, mybe manifold bolt tensions .

Mine had a faulty throttle body gasket (some moron couldn't even line the bolt holes up on the gasket, and decided to make a new hole, putting half the gasket in the manifold, other half on the underside of the throttle body it still ran a 13.4 with stuff all boost, generic tune and wog cooler, anyway back on track) that made it idle fast on startup and lose boost when accelerating.

Can't explain the brake booster. Getting your ford dealer to check the error codes might be helpful. Mine's never backfired, and I'd suggest that could stretch/break a number of things.

[ALF05T]

My car was idling at about 200rpm, when I put my foot on the accelerator rpm would not change. I pulled out the throttle body and tested the stepper motor with a DC power supply it was working fine. Tested the Throttle position sensor it was giving all weird readings, pulled the TPS apart and found that the metal wiper was smashed causing the problem. Purchased a new one from ford $170 problem fixed.

My engine light also comes on under hard acceleration (light above traction control). The new sensor solved the idle problem but the engine light still comes on under acceleration. Let me know how your fault goes but it sounds like the TPS or stepper motor.

Cheers Alf.

[xr6 typhoon]

BUMP BUMP

Come on guys

what revs is the car idling at?

[NATHOON]

I had this problem yesterday. It was the fuel pump it had blown the hose off it would start but idled like a bitch sounded like a rotor. As soon as it hit boost it popped. The first d#$khead tuner uni-crap engineering obviously didnt know how to install a pump properly. so the pump came out (ute is fun to do) I put the hose back on with with an efi clamp bobs your uncle 355 rwkw again you should get to a shop with a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressur it should be between 3 and 4 bar

Nathan

[our06t]

just a thought have you tried a compression test I know its not a nice thought but I have heard of the stock conrods being bent due to large backfires or misfires

in extreme cases you end up looking like street fords 6t with the conrod poking out of your sump

[RAP1D]

Changed the fuel filter?

[cv8z]

Hi

Thanks Guys for all of your imputs.

I have not replied to any of your replies as I have been flat out stressing out the car.

Some pointers to any guys who have a T that has similar dramas.

1/ Clean cam sensor connector (gets oil in there and stuffs up the VCT)

2/ Replaced the whole throttle body (Tees will only throw the check engine light on if it is a thottle failer) all other codes are stored in the ECU

Reason for loss of manifold pressure (VCT sensor failed) causing backfire which blew the throttle plate half open causing the loss of manifold pressure at idle (ECU made the car go into emergency throttle shut down) which made the car return to idle (falsy done by engine management)

Car went well for 2 full days

"Bang" on the way home, different problem car would idle but would not accelerate

Came back to this post 10 points goes to NATHOON (thanks mate)

Fuel pump line had blown of fuel pump (my tuner had installed my new pump 2-3 wekks ago (not happy Jan)

Drove all day today 100% beautiful (fingers crossed)

That to everyone that chiped in there help.

Cheers