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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 25d

Over the weekend I am removing my front bar to fit a PWR Intercooler and my ebay PWR trans cooler. Normally the trans cooler kit is to fit in front of the radiator but I am guessing it may not with the larger IC. Where would it get the most air in between the IC and radiator where it is designed or under the front guard where other people have mounted it?

Thanks

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https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/33890-trans-cooler-mounting/
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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 6m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

while the front bar is off put the trans cooler in front of the drivers side front wheel, it will sit in there nicely behind the fog light and get plenty of air, dont forget to drill a couple of big holes in the plastic in the wheel arch to allow for the hot air to flow out, then cover the holes with someting like security screen mesh to stop crap from the wheel being flung into the holes

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 7m 17d

Just a quick one, everyone seems to place the cooler on the drivers side, why is this? I was looking around under there last night and the drivers side seems to be blocked with IC pipes and pretty close to the turbo where as the passenger side seems pretty open.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 25d
while the front bar is off put the trans cooler in front of the drivers side front wheel, it will sit in there nicely behind the fog light and get plenty of air, dont forget to drill a couple of big holes in the plastic in the wheel arch to allow for the hot air to flow out, then cover the holes with someting like security screen mesh to stop crap from the wheel being flung into the holes

Yeah no worries Allan. I had your setup in mind. The ebay kit was designed with the brackets for in front of the radiator but can see as the drivers side is better.

gilfxrt I think you will find that the connections to the trans lines for the radiator are on this side. Without looking at it yet I am assuming this is where you plumb in the cooler. Hence drivers side. Once I start removing the bar etc it will all become more evident.

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Theres less room on the off drivers side due to the size of the Washer bottle. The lower intercooler hose doesnt get in the way at all. There is a big void behind the rh fog lamp. FPV relocated the horns to this area when they fitted the bigger coolers to the tornado's/typhoons. I'd suggest a thermo controller fan and some air inlet holes in the sheet metal in front of the cooler and exit holes in the inner gaurd plastic skin.

Have a search of my posts and topics. I have some pretty detailed photos in one of them.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 25d
Theres less room on the off drivers side due to the size of the Washer bottle. The lower intercooler hose doesnt get in the way at all. There is a big void behind the rh fog lamp. FPV relocated the horns to this area when they fitted the bigger coolers to the tornado's/typhoons. I'd suggest a thermo controller fan and some air inlet holes in the sheet metal in front of the cooler and exit holes in the inner gaurd plastic skin.

Have a search of my posts and topics. I have some pretty detailed photos in one of them.

Looking for your post now. Just one question before I go. Did you keep it inseries with the radiator or remove it all together? I am thinking of leaving the fog lamps out and fitting some black mesh to fill the hole a bit. Should get bucket loads of air.

  • 10 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 2m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: syd south

I have just done this exact setup.

The hardest bit is mounting the cooler as there isnt much to go off and my cooler is a top of the line earls one it is heavier than the pwr type ones.

I decided to make a bracket from 30x5mm steel strap that the cooler actually sits on so it is completely supported from underneath,not hanging from the top.

I then mig welded the bracket to the chassis rail,its about as tough as a trans cooler mount can get.To finish the mount I ran a strap from the outside corner up to a bolt on the front end,the cooler is now so stiff nothing will move it and it definately wont rattle .

I then marked out the size of the hole I wanted behind the cooler and cut it out with tinsnips,I had an air hacksaw but it just melted the plastic and stopped cutting,tinsnips worked well.

Once I had removed the waste section I used it as a template to cut my expanded metal sheet cutting it about 20mm bigger all around so I had something to screw into.

I made sure that I had the angle of the louvres correct so that from the direction the wheel travels you cant see in,its like a solid sheet,but from underneath,the opposite way the wheels spins its a clear view through the sheet.

This way my cooler wont cop any hits from debris flying off the wheel but it allows the cooler to breathe.

I then screwed it on with self tappers straight into the expanded metal sheet,it actually holds really well.

The only thing left to do now is run a duct from the driving light hole to the cooler to increase the airflow through it,I will do that when I do my new turbo setup and the pod filter goes up into the engine bay in a cold air box.

Anyway here is the pics

the bracket welded to the chassis can be seen here

15022008499.jpg

side strap

15022008498.jpg

the hole cut

15022008500.jpg

view from the top,cant see in ;)

15022008501.jpg

view from the bottom,full flow

15022008502.jpg

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 11m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Nice job, that is effectively what I did, although my B+M has a different orientation, the mounting bracket runs along both edges, allowing me to use some right angled steel as a bracket, bolted and spot welded to the chassis rail, and the outer edge has a bracket support running up to the metal behind where your Pod filter is (below the headlight).

I then cut a number of slits in teh inner wheel gaurd, just as you see on allot of cars, this allows air through and down, but as you say, from the outside, rocks / debris cant get through as they are deflected off the louvers.

I then lined the inside with wire mesh.

has worked a treat, apart from one oil line popping off the following day (not done up enough)...I just happened to be doing 180kph down the back straight at Sandown at the time :censored:...

note to everyone doing this job, make sure, I mean double check the clamps are done up.

made a big mess, luckily I was able to ease out of it, and slow to a stop off the side of the track.

some pit stop repairs and I was away again (refitted line - clamp) and filled up the trans...lol

5 ltrs of oil under the right side of a car makes a big mess....4 cans of degreaser and 2 hours to clean it all up.

  • Mmmmm......BOOST
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 1m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: central coast

we just did mine but we went for the rear mount left rear quarter heaps of room to spare plenty of air flow and with thermo attached it works great even sittin in traffic

cost a bit more for the extra braided line but well worth it

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