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BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE


Guest IMTRBO

Who is it happening to?  

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Guest Brent400
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ASNU, Thanks for the reply mate,

I'm in Canberra, did you just do the front breaks or both front and rear?

The standard breaks are pretty poor if you are driving hard :angry: I wish I had upgrade my breaks when I ordered the car.

Brent

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  • My new toy
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  • Member For: 21y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: stanthorpe wine capital of qld.

Brent400 I have only fitted the front disc at the moment but will be doing rears soon.they are totally different to drive with these disc's on. I tend to drive the car hard and I have not had any fade or loss pedal since these were fitted.

Ian

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  • Member For: 22y 1m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Fitted new front rotors on the weekend they where dba gold series which are crossdrilled and slotted what a differance it has made to the braking. !

Got the crossed drilled and slotted rotors 2000km ago and wish I did it months ago.Used the original pads and have had no issues with pulsating pedals or fade.The brake pedal now even feels alot more sensitive to braking and would recommend it to everybody.Should of been like this in the first place.

Same here, I have done about 2000 k's now. and the feel of the brakes are silky smooth, no shudder, and much stronger feel when used hard :blink:

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  • Member For: 22y 19d
  • Location: Brooklyn
ASNU, Thanks for the reply mate,

I'm in Canberra, did you just do the front breaks or both front and rear?

The standard breaks are pretty poor if you are driving hard :angry: I wish I had upgrade my breaks when I ordered the car.

Brent

Just the fronts mate as the rears are solid and dont feel at this time they need any attention.As Ian noted the difference in braking from what I have found is quite dramatic being that they have cured the problem I have had anyway.There is another stlye of rotor that they do with just slots in them that from a recommendation at a recent trade show the DBA guy said that they are just as good for road use,I dont intend on racing my car but the drilled ones look really good and suit the car I think.I really dont think the big brake upgrade available as a option is worth considering for my purposes anyway.The brakes are more than adequate now with the rotor change and with standard pads fitted.

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Guest Mac_Dude
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So are we saying there is a sub $1K solution rather than buying the premiums?

I'm not saying this solution is as good as the premiums, but up to an acceptable level for the standards???

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  • My new toy
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  • Member For: 21y 9m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: stanthorpe wine capital of qld.
So are we saying there is a sub $1K solution rather than buying the premiums?

I'm not saying this solution is as good as the premiums, but up to an acceptable level for the standards???

Yes this is correct I have not driven one with premuim brakes but with the dba's on its just great.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 19d
  • Location: Brooklyn
So are we saying there is a sub $1K solution rather than buying the premiums?

I'm not saying this solution is as good as the premiums, but up to an acceptable level for the standards???

Yes this is correct I have not driven one with premuim brakes but with the dba's on its just great.

I dont think you could compare the big brake upgrade to just replaceing the rotors if you were intending on racing your T on the track but who does this anyway all the time.For street driving plus a few traffic light duels here and there this is a option that has worked for me and Ian and a few other I take it that did not want to persist with the factory fix.You just have to follow this topic from day 1 to see the people that have had the machine job but have had the same problem come back in 2000km.I wanted a fix for my car and followed this topic to see what results people were having with the rotor change and it all seemed positive so I replaced them and could not be happier.

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  • TEAM BLUEPRINT
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  • Member For: 22y 10d
  • Location: Perth W.A.

are we saying that a simple rotor change has given us a perminant fix from the brake shudder thing.

if so why have ford not done something about it by now.

could there be more to this brake problem than we think.

what happens when you change your disks only and at 5000km the shudder thing starts to happen again.

who will fix it under warranty.

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Guest dbasteve
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are we saying that a simple rotor change has given us a perminant fix from the brake shudder thing.

if so why have ford not done something about it by now.

could there be more to this brake problem than we think.

what happens when you change your disks only and at 5000km the shudder thing starts to happen again.

who will fix it under warranty.

I'm glad you brought this up.

There appears to be two different types of shudder going on with the BA.

1. Thermal shudder at high speed (high temperature) which I think the DBA rotors have resolved.

2. Cold shudder from disc thickness variation caused by irregular wear on the disc due to issues with the rotor, caliper, pad combo. In this case the rotor is often blamed because DTV in the rotor is the end result. The possible causes are;

a ) Run out in the disc - I don't believe this is the case due to the accuracy of the machines being used and specified tolerances. Also it wouldn't reoccur a few thousands km after on car machining either.

B ) Too much compressability or flex in the pad

c ) Caliper flex

d ) Inadequate piston retraction.

The last three won't be fixed by the rotors. A better rotor may last longer before the problem occurs.

The last two problems are common knowledge world wide.

That's my opinion anyway.... :)

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  • TEAM BLUEPRINT
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  • Member For: 22y 10d
  • Location: Perth W.A.

thanks steve

do you think if the disks,clipars and pads are changed,

would this fix the problem.

if so we know to use dba disks, but what calipars and pads do we use.

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