BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE

[discostig]

Hmmm that's interesting. I want to upgrade some suspension components and Pat/Senna suggested doing some bushes at the same time, are these the ones? Pretty promising results.

[Anchor]

SteveR - Mine were screwed and I have only 87,000km. Although I think it made it 10x worse when I had 9.5" on the front with hubcentric adapters. Extra load and all.

[JGP]

would this issue affect 05 territories?

anything above 70kms,apply half brake pedal and I can feel a 'shudder' through the steering wheel.

[Wenier]

I would imagine its possible, as far as I know the brake are of similar setup, someone correct me otherwise.

I find with mine it is only at extremely high speed or when you heat the discs up alot.

[Boosted_BF]

would this issue affect 05 territories?

anything above 70kms,apply half brake pedal and I can feel a 'shudder' through the steering wheel.

yes, same basic front end, all be the the teretory (and bf mkII) got 322mm brake rather than the earlier BA 298mm

[arkcavaliea]

I have a O5 BA XR6

ever since ive owned it its always had brake shudder

had front bearings done, new roters(done twice under warrenty), new pads, and new tyres and plenty of wheel balances, last service the mechanic spun the front wheels when it was hoisted up and noticed the wheels didnt spin freely so they took apart the calipers and freed them up. But this also did not fix the problem. Im now considering selling it and buying a import cause its costing me to much money to fix with no results and im that fed up with the sudder.

if anybody has an idea whats the problem please tell me

[aiboart]

If the shudder occurs immediately after:

- removing the disc

- scrubbing the hub and disc free from all rust to ensure a flat mating surface

- fitting brand new, not skimmed discs

- following the required disc and pad bedding in procedures

Then I am afraid I have no idea.

If however the shudder occurs after some time after following the above procedure, especially after some spirited driving, then the matter is likely straightforward.

The fact is that the standard brakes in these cars are known for shudder. There are threads in this forum that run forever on this issue. Replacing the discs in your car with the standard discs and pads or with low grade cheap discs and pads will not cure the problem, nor will resurfacing the discs and pads any number of times.

The sheer refinement of these engines and the shape of the torque delivery means that these are exceedingly quick vehicles point to point, even in everyday driving. The fact that the chassis is at least up to the capability of the engine and the fact that these are large load carrying cars means that the braking systems work very very hard indeed, and the issue is, the standard grade braking components are not up to the standard of the rest of the car.

Simply put, to effect a solution you need to fit your car with much higher grade discs and pads, otherwise you will continue to suffer from overheated rotors and pads, haphazard pad transfer, coning and the sundry other nasties that occur by operating brakes outside the temperature specifications.

High end direct replacements for your discs are available in the form of DBA4000 slotted. Many people on the forum have reported on the effectiveness of this solution. It would be a good idea to review that information for yourself.

Alternatively you can upgrade to one of the high end Factory braking solutions for this model. Unlike the standard brakes the Factory upgrades were all brilliant.

It is a total pain when a problem does not respond to numberous fix attempts, however, in this instance there may be a solution.

Good luck.

Regards,

aa

Edited 04/12/10 09:15 AM by aiboart

[Benny]

Get rid of the factory Ford rotors and pads and as above replace with good quality after market gear and that will fix your problems. I did that in my BA with great success.

Benny

[discostig]

It's worth noting I had shudder, fitted new DBA400 slotted rotors with new QFM HP-X pads and it eventually returned. It can be due to worn bushes at the front (I forget which ones, it's in one of the threads), and I've done over 110,000kms. Also if you get them skimmed it should be done while they are still mounted to the car, not taken off the hub.

Perhaps I didn't scrub hard enough with the wire brush when fitting the new front rotors. Sure does piss me off.

[aiboart]

I imagine that with 400++ kW at the flywheel the standard system configuration is most unlikely to cope even with high quality hardware. That however is a guess.

As noted above, one way to check with the high DBA4000/5000 series at least is to refer to the thermo chromic latching paint on the edge of the disc. This is a ten minute job and will quickly indicate there and then if you are operating the disc and pad system out outside of its permissible temperature range.

If you have not been operating the disc system outside of its operating range, then check the pads to see if they are compatible with the range indicated by the thermo chromic marks.

If all reports good then it is possible that there is a problem elsewhere in the system.

If however the investigation reveals that you are operating outside of the temperature range of the discs or the pads then you will need to upgrade the system; in essence the system needs to be able to absorb more heat and to pump heat faster.

An option is is to go with the existing Factory solutions (refer to the RTA (NSW) web site): the best Factory solution currently available for this model of car is the Brembo 6/4 pot option. Adding upgraded discs to such a system DBA5000 f, DBA4000 rear might also be prudent.

Even then, depending on condutions, it is not clear that such a system could cope with 400++kW.

Regards,

aa