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BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE


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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 6m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Cairns Qld

I was told by a local tuning shop that if I get my brakes done (skimming), the shudder will stop for a while but it WILL come back. At least they were honest about it. They did an excellent job on my car for a service so I respect their opinion. Two of the people who work there have XR6 T's.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 6m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney, NSW

my BFt brakes were machined at around 40k and the shudder hasnt come back so far at 60k. Id say the fix you are after is replacing the disks with a better quality aftermarket disk.

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 10m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Dianella, West Oz

AFAIK if you replace the discs with DBA 4000's and a good pad, the shudder should subside...

Havent had shudder myself so have not had to replace my disks yet but will be soon anyway.

Look in the rotor/DBA/replacement disk threads in the Wheels and Handling subforum, they will tell you what you need. Topics have been posted fairly recently.

Hope this answers your Q. Good luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 27d

the shudder is caused by the disc being uneven, on its surface, most commonly being warped. warping occurs with excessive heat, if you get the disc machined it will be flat but the disc will stil be warped so it is likly to come back again.

Could be just low quality metal used in the discs ??

If you feel the shudder in the brake pedal, your rear discs are scrwed, if its in the steering wheel, your front discs are screwed.

I would say this would be more common to highway driving because of more force being exerted on the discs at higher speeds, causing more heat, and making it alot more probable to warping.

im getting sloted front n back rotors in the comming week so will be interesting on how they hold up

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  • Member For: 17y 8m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Slip Sliding Away
I would say this would be more common to highway driving because of more force being exerted on the discs at higher speeds, causing more heat, and making it alot more probable to warping.

I would say heavy braking in stop start traffic would do it more than constant highway driving.

What happens, I thought, is the disc and pad heats up and when you stop the hot pad sits at one place on the disc and warps that one area.

So you do that all the way to work and the discs get HOT SPOTS on it that cause the warping.

Driving at 100kph and coming to a complete stop would do the same thing but slowing down from 100-80 and continueing along will cause the disc to uniformly heat up all over and cool down the same way.

I stil lthink those stupid dust sheilds cause alot of heat buildup in there so I would start by removing them.

I have the PBR brakes on my car and they are awsome. Not Brembo like of course but for spirited driving now and then they piss all over the stockies.

Edited by Maximus
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  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 7m 23d
  • Gender: Male

My experience as follows

BA Fairmont. Shudder under normal driving. Discs machined twice. Same thing. Replace front bearing hubs and fixed the problem. Using original discs and pads.

VT Commode. THey have a disc shudder problem. Had them machined, replaced disc to slotted rotors DBA and agressive pads in the hope they would keep them true. Still shuddered. Changed front bearing hubs to an aftermarket brand that had just came out. Same DBA discs and pads and no shudder.

So if you have a persistant shudder I suggest changing the front bearing hubs.

I think these style of bearing hubs have run out issues if not manufactured spot on.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Gents,

I have just replaced the front rotors on my '04 T with DBA 4000 Series 6x6 slotted and Bendix Ultimate pads and are very happy so far. A simple job to do and the pedal feels a little more "solid" and less spongy. Stopping power seems to be a bit better too (not yet run in though)

I got the rotors and pads from Hi Tek Brakes in Moorabbin with the rotors being $290 for both and $125 for the pads - ask for Cam. Those guys did a great job of looking after me.

I will stick with the standard rear rotors and get the Ultimate pads for the rear when needed.

Regards

Ken

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • My engine bay is Bionic
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 8m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Freeways

My DBA 4000, fronts 2 months old, back 2 days old, gave me a one off massive shudder on the snowies cruise while braking hard yesterday. The steering wheel nearly fell off. A quick stop to let them cool and they were fine again, though I didnt expect the DBA 4000 series slotted to do this ever.

I.B.

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