BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE

[ASNU]

[iMO all this fix does is keep the pads further away from the rotor to stop it from overheating... very dodgy. I agree with you, the plot is definitely thickening

The other difference I notice since 'the fix' is that the brakes don't have the bite that they used to have . I reckon this is because they are a whole lot cooler at application due to being so far away from the rotors and as a result, aren't up to temp. They feel like they do when the brakes are cold. Talk about robbing Peter to pay Paul. After a couple of applications, they are pretty much right, just that initial one is a problem. I'm still seriously considering the DBA rotors and bendix pads, but will wait to see if anything else eventuates about new calipers.

Al.

AXW01.

Thanks for that info mate.So the new clip has been designed to keep the pads away from the disc but making the first brake application lower.Very interesting.Way to much heat been generated from our brakes under braking so I would say this fix will last maybe 5-10000km if your lucky.Back to square one again.

The new slotted and crossed drilled rotor plus new pads of different 2 compounds has not worked,I should say it did for 9-10000km but back again so same problem.Thought the cross drilled rotors would of cooled things down consideraby but maybe not.Another point to put into prospective though as I tow quite heavy loads so maybe that's why I am seeing early than other people.

56Mainline.

I would like to offer you a warm welcome in joining all of us to the shudder club.

Jimmyboy.

Keep on posting mate regarding your good news as the door is always open to the club.I am sure you will be joining us soon.

[Guest cul08r]

umm, AXW01, I think that there's a problem. If you say your pedal feels like it goes down further than before, it should have nothing to do with a gap between the pads and rotors. If you have a gap of more than 0.1 - 0.3mm then there's a problem too.. Your pads ride with basically a layer of air between them and the rotor. Any other setting/set is wrong, and should be rectified.

BTW, does anyone know if this problem exists in late model (read Oct 03 build) cars?

Andrew

[HellionXR6T]

just a question guys.. with the poll results, does that purely reflect the fact that most cars are autos city driven or is there actually a higher ratio of shudder happening to those cars driven in that manner.

then again, it could be the rums talking!!!

Hey Whizzer, you'll have to come over for a rumbo sometime

Well before "Harry" (the POS `84 Honda Accord shopping trolley and workhorse), the XR was travelling to Ipswich and back on a daily basis. Hence getting up to 20,000 since Jan 29th. So I wouldn't really class it as 'city driving'. 110kms per day.

[GOLDIE]

umm, AXW01, I think that there's a problem. If you say your pedal feels like it goes down further than before, it should have nothing to do with a gap between the pads and rotors. If you have a gap of more than 0.1 - 0.3mm then there's a problem too.. Your pads ride with basically a layer of air between them and the rotor. Any other setting/set is wrong, and should be rectified.

BTW, does anyone know if this problem exists in late model (read Oct 03 build) cars?

Andrew

If the clips are designed to retract the pads further off the disc the brake pedal well feel lower and travel further before it starts to work. This is actraully what happens as the pads wear down and the piston seal pulls the pistons back further.

After 32000 km we replaced the pads in our car to day just by doing this the pedal is harder even before driving the car.

Ian.

[Guest cul08r]

Ian, I hope you are not saying that each time you pull your foot off the pedal the pads retract into their "home" position? Have you ever seen the V8 supercars changing pads? They need to squeeze the pistons back to fit the new pads in. And I change all my own brake pads so I know it's the same on road cars (all that I have owned). Your pedal might feel better de to the following:

- new fluid

- fluid level increase leaving less air space in resivoir.

- better pads than fitted at the factory.

I know what I'm saying is true, and I believe what you are saying too, as I got the same results when I changed the pads on my 4WD last week...

Andrew

[GOLDIE]

No andew I am not saying they go right back home but they do retract further than when they are new.

Ian

[FORDTECH]

Just a quick question guys, to save me reading through every post in this topic, has anyone actually posted the real reason for the brake shudder or is everyone just guessing about what they think might be the problem?

[ktford]

Fordtech,

I believe were all guessing.

Scotty

[ASNU]

, has anyone actually posted the real reason for the brake shudder or is everyone just guessing about what they think might be the problem?

FORDTECH.

Are you suggesting you no what is the cause of this?.Please enlighten us all.

The beauty of this discussion is everybody has or is getting different mods to remedy a fault as the dealers seem to be abit in the dark.We have all been back several times for the machine job plus another couple of guys have just had new clips fitted with a suss brake take up point so I would not really call this a fix.Rotors have even been replaced only to have the problem come back.Do you have a conclusion or fix that maybe is new that will fix this?.Any constructive feedback would be most welcome.

[Henry]

Here is the latest explanation I have got for this shudder issue.

With the BA Ford wanted a firmer feel to the brakes compared to an AU, so the calipers and mounting brackets were designed with far less flex. With less flex, something has to give and eventually its the rotors.

This is consistent with some of those who changed to DBA rotors finding that the shudder reappears after a longer period. I.e. the DBAs are better quality and hence harder.

What I have been told is that from 1 October 2003 the calipers and mounting brackets for new BAs have been redesigned with more flex, to give a pedal feel that moves back closer to the AU.

I also believe that pre October 1 owners have a 100,000km warranty on rotors.

Does anyone know if the master cylinder on the premium brakes is different to the one on the standard brakes? Just trying to cost an upgrade. I know that the front calipers, rotors and pads are different and with the rear its just the rotors.