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BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE


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  • DavoXT
  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 11m 4d
  • Location: 1500km north of Perth

My XT V8 has now done 11000km with 80% out-back driving with no sign of brake shudder at all with the standed brakes.

I had taken the dust spacer off the disc from new , the way I look at it is if it helps to stop the flow of brake dust it must stop some heat if only a little.

post-3-1056534003.jpg

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Guest dbasteve
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dbasteve,

why dont you do a comparision of your discs against the ford ones,

for example standard ford discs and pads against your longlife solids, then slotted and then the gold or crossdrilled.

Then change the pads to aftermarket ones and measure stopping distances to see whether you product performs better in stopping. As for the disc shudder I don't know how to test for that.

At least if we have figures on how much better your product is, we can make our own choice.

PS what do you think of the new kevlar pads eg EBC Steet and greenstuff :idea:

I'm waiting on pads, then we will do some more benchmark testing.

Bendix are due in a week or so and Ferodo about 4 to 6 weeks. I'm having a set of Ferodo Racing pads cut down too for a bit of spirited fun. :nod:

The best way (we think) to test shudder is to closely monitor street vehicles used in different driving environments. Dyno's don't do left foot braking, tow boats/caravans, or club track days.

EBC sent me info on the new Green Stuff release for Australian cars. Hopefully it will end the battle between us on rotor/pad compatability. I thought it was a bit funny that after all the denials about resin problems that we now have Green compound version 5 (Ultra) for Australian cars. Good luck to them. At least they are putting in the effort and we will support them 100% if the results are good. :unsure:

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  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 10m 25d
  • Location: Brooklyn
dbasteve,

why dont you do a comparision of your discs against the ford ones,

for example standard ford discs and pads against your longlife solids, then slotted and then the gold or crossdrilled.

Then change the pads to aftermarket ones and measure stopping distances to see whether you product performs better in stopping. As for the disc shudder I don't know how to test for that.

At least if we have figures on how much better your product is, we can make our own choice.

PS what do you think of the new kevlar pads eg EBC Steet and greenstuff :idea:

I'm waiting on pads, then we will do some more benchmark testing.

Bendix are due in a week or so and Ferodo about 4 to 6 weeks. I'm having a set of Ferodo Racing pads cut down too for a bit of spirited fun. :nod:

The best way (we think) to test shudder is to closely monitor street vehicles used in different driving environments. Dyno's don't do left foot braking, tow boats/caravans, or club track days.

EBC sent me info on the new Green Stuff release for Australian cars. Hopefully it will end the battle between us on rotor/pad compatability. I thought it was a bit funny that after all the denials about resin problems that we now have Green compound version 5 (Ultra) for Australian cars. Good luck to them. At least they are putting in the effort and we will support them 100% if the results are good. :unsure:

DBASTEVE.

Bit the bullit yesterday and bought some of your companies crossed drilled front discs as going back to the dealer again for a 2nd machine job was not going to happen.Most of my driving is done around around the city but have just returned from a trip to Victoria.I would nearlly class the shudder to be dangerous specially trying to slow from 115kmh.Shudder came back under 2000km from 1st machine job.

You are most welcome to the discs if you desire.I was contemplating useing them for pot plant holders in my garden but dont no if the pot would sit flat on the surfuce.

Will comment next week on how they go after the weekend.

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Guest ricthewheelie
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Dbasteve,

Do you use a dyno to test your rotors ? If so why and why not just test them on cars so we can see the measured improvement in stopping distance ?

I know it'll be expensive and require a lot of control factors eg tyres and thir pressure etc but I think it'll give us all a basis on quality and value for money.

Regards Ric.

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  • Bored Member
  • Administrator
  • Member For: 22y 1m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Dé·jà vu
Do you use a dyno to test your rotors ?
The best way (we think) to test shudder is to closely monitor street vehicles used in different driving environments. Dyno's don't do left foot braking, tow boats/caravans, or club track days.
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Guest ricthewheelie
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Do you use a dyno to test your rotors ?
The best way (we think) to test shudder is to closely monitor street vehicles used in different driving environments. Dyno's don't do left foot braking, tow boats/caravans, or club track days.

Dagabond ,

the reason that I asked is that I want to know what tests and what the regimen of the tests that they do on a dyno.

Edited by Cro
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Guest dbasteve
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We do have a Dyno for testing rotors. We don't set this up for every rotor we make though. It's mainly used for proving new designs and materials. Brake Dynos are ideal for very controlled conditions in which specific attributes can be monitored such as materials reaction to heat input ect.

Most of our final testing/verification is done on the track or a skid pan and on designated street vehicles.

Our position in the market is quite different to O.E manufacturing though as a great deal of the hard work is done for us by the car companies and we just add our own herbs and spices so to speak to enhance a product. Our advantage is that we work with hundreds of different vehicles from around the globe and pick the good points from each design and put it into our own product.

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Guest ricthewheelie
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dbasteve,

Whens the comparisions on disks/ pads etc going to be finnished as I'll have to get new pads/rotors on my AU soon ?

Regards

Ric.

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Guest dbasteve
  • Guests
dbasteve,

Whens the comparisions on disks/ pads etc going to be finnished as I'll have to get new pads/rotors on my AU soon ?

Regards

Ric.

If you drive hard, Slotted rotors (preferably 4000 series on the AU Series 1) with Formula Ferodo pads work well, otherwise Ultimates, then Lucas for easier driving.

It's just as important not to put a high performance pad in a car that's driven easy as it is not to put a light duty pad in a car driven hard.

If that makes sense!

Unfortunately we don't have too many pad choices on the BA yet. :thumbsup:

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