BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE

[Vivasanti]

Hey mate, thanks for ya input.

Nah the car is standard. its got 18inch FPV wheels on it, new bushes all round top and botton (I havent driven the car since these have been fitted) now its getting new front rotors/pads fitted :D

Will investigate the drive shaft now that you mention the do through weights, is it a pricey job?

Have to just laugh all this off at this stage :D

[ratter]

Genuine wheels and good tyres or aftermarket copies and cheap tyres?

[RBpower]

Agree 100% mate. OP conveniently ignoring good (including my) advice.

Still can't believe a "Caldina" was mentioned on here without apologies

....... (LOL )

Lulz...comming from someone that owned a "clubbie", I wouldn't be so quick to throw comments like that around after saying that dude

[RBpower]

Well I'm calling this case closed!!.. after pulling the master cylinder off and screwing the adjusting blot in to give abit of clearance between the piston and master cylinder valve.

literally a 5 minute job..

it makes sense as it seems to me that the brakes were dragging from the begining, and going for a trip to sydney the other day I had a interesting thing happen, I had the brake pedal go to the floor when trying to brake after cruising for awhile, after pulling over thinking that maybe there was air in the system or sumthing, (thought I may of been leaking fluid) I checked the fluid, all good, and then I noticed that the right rear wheel was smoking, hence confirming that the brakes were indeed dragging.. so when I got home I did the above^ and it's been a few good drives now and no random shuddering, so fingerz crossed!

Edited 04/12/11 07:27 AM by RBpower

[XR6menace]

I suggested this on another forum many years ago , I even took pics and I got personally attacked for trying to kill people !!

Biggest critisism I copped was from a brake shop sponsor and the fact I was mucking around with a factory safety product..

Now they are charging $350 for a change over booster ...

Hmmmm I wonder what the difference is

Edited 04/12/11 07:58 AM by dazzler

[RBpower]

I suggested this on another forum many years ago , I even took pics and I got personally attacked for trying to kill people !!

Biggest critisism I copped was from a brake shop sponsor and the fact I was mucking around with a factory safety product..

Now they are charging $350 for a change over booster ...

Hmmmm I wonder what the difference is

Man ive had lots of problems with my vlt over the years that ive had to fix but this had me stuffed, but in the end it's a five minute job to fix. I really feel sorry for the people that have had to spend countless dollars on other suspension & brake changes to only have the problem persist.

I wouldn't mind betting that criticism from the brake shop sponsor was because they charge and arm and a leg to fix sh!t like this when all you need is a spanner or two and a will to think about how stuff works and the problems that might be caused. My advice to people with problems like this or any other is to at least research on the net to see if others have experienced the same troubles.

[Vivasanti]

Thought id post my follow up

Just taken the car away for Christmas doing about 1000km of open road driving between citys to see my family, the car is going great - no more SHUDDER!!

I had the following done in end....

New superpro lower control arm bush kits.

New upper bush kits replace.

New front rotors and bendix pads.

Wheels rebalance + aligned etc

He said the was ALOT of adjustment in the steering rack which has been adjusted almost completely out but to completely eliminate it a new rack will need to be fitted, which I will not be doing.

thanks to all the helpful people who assisted

Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year.

[LazyBrennan]

Well I'm calling this case closed!!.. after pulling the master cylinder off and screwing the adjusting blot in to give abit of clearance between the piston and master cylinder valve.

literally a 5 minute job..

it makes sense as it seems to me that the brakes were dragging from the begining, and going for a trip to sydney the other day I had a interesting thing happen, I had the brake pedal go to the floor when trying to brake after cruising for awhile, after pulling over thinking that maybe there was air in the system or sumthing, (thought I may of been leaking fluid) I checked the fluid, all good, and then I noticed that the right rear wheel was smoking, hence confirming that the brakes were indeed dragging.. so when I got home I did the above^ and it's been a few good drives now and no random shuddering, so fingerz crossed!

Did you take any pics or get any instructions?

I went to get my lower control arm bushes looked at and was told there fine, I was told the shudder was caused by the master cylinder.

I did get a proper wheel alignment done and most of the shudder went ( just 2 weeks after getting it aligned) But once the brakes get warm they shudder really bad.

[LazyBrennan]

I suggested this on another forum many years ago , I even took pics and I got personally attacked for trying to kill people !!

Biggest critisism I copped was from a brake shop sponsor and the fact I was mucking around with a factory safety product..

Now they are charging $350 for a change over booster ...

Hmmmm I wonder what the difference is

I bet I know what forum it was too haha.

Still got the pics?

[Bulletime]

Sorry to flog a dead horse but I thought after reading so many of these posts on the brake shudder issue I'd document my story, since for me it is just beginning. I've got a late 09 FG XR6T Sedan with 53k kms, been getting break shudder at freeway speeds for a few thousand k's now. The dealer reckons the only cause for brake shudder is warped rotors that need machining, and they would have done if for free before 50k kms but after that they charge $140, funny how they didn't do it at the 45k service , since it was happening back then even.

Anyway back at the 45k service they replaced the diff bushes because they'd had it and it was a known fault. So I asked the guy if since the bushes in the diff were inferior whether they are in the front and if they're going to have had it and he said they've never replaced any bushes in the front, and that they can't cause brake shudder, only thing the bushes in the front will do is clunk over bumps, hmm rightio sure sure. We all no how much dealers love to avoid really fixing things.

My plan is to get a proper place to check the car out, getting a wheel alignment and balance done because it's due, but going to get them to check if the rotors are warped and get them to inspect the lower control arm bushes, going to see if I can chat to the mechanic and make sure he has a real good look at the bushes for me. Has anyone been able to get the dealer to replace these given they're substandard and causing brake shudder, and wrecking everyone's rotors? No one here has said that they have but I'm wondering if most people were out of warranty at the time? I want to get proof from a real mechanic that they're gone and then get the dealer under warranty to fix them, since I've read on here it's pretty pricey work getting the bushes replaced. I'm planning on some DBA4000 slotted rotors up front so I won't be paying to get the rotors machined, but as it's been said in this thread many times that changing the rotors won't fix it, I want to make sure the real cause is actually fixed before I do the brakes.

Cars going in Monday so here's hoping it works out, I don't know how I'll feel if the mechanic says he can't see any problems with the bushes, even when pressed to give them a good look, if that is even possible I suppose? Can't afford circa $1k to replace the bushes, especially if it's not easy to tell they've had it :wacko: If anyone has any advice for me I'd be keen to hear it.

Cheers.

Edited 15/06/12 06:58 AM by Bulletime