Turbo Oil Supply Screen Cleaning

[farnzy]

Great will be doing it ASAP just had an oil change so I didn want to do it again, but if its only a few ml should be fine thanks again

[farnzy]

Hey again guys just been uder the hood and have removed the screen all went smooth found the best way to get the circlip out was a scribe in one of the holes and pry it off the side came out first go.

[IBOO57]

Good stuff it isnt as hard as some people have said.

Easier if you cut down a spanner to suit and remove the oil filter.

[austcro]

I had a look at doing this Monday as it was a public holiday in Canberra. To say that this job is a PITA is a gross understatement.

Removed the airbox. This made it easy to get in there without getting under the car.

I bought a cheap 15/16 spanner and chopped it in half after reading in this thread that it was required. Used a large spark plug socket with the rubber removed from the inside so I could get it over the sender socket.

Half of the fitting came off right there and then; no probs.

Removed the banjo fitting and all I had to remove was the last part of the fitting. Used the chopped spanner but couldn't get it off FFS, no leverage after chopping the spanner in half. Stood there for about an hour trying figure out how I was gonna get it off without damaging something else. A nice deep 15/16 inch socket would have been perfect, alas, I didn't have one. <scratch head/>

So I ended up using a very long 1/2 inch drive extension bar and the half spanner; poked it down between the fuel rail and the head. Put the drive end of the extension bar on the end of the spanner which was positioned on the fitting. Got the hammer out and belted the top of the extension bar and inched the fitting to the point where I could get my hands in there and use some muscle to turn it out with the spanner. If you use this technique, be mindful that there is a fitting right below the end of the spanner that you could easily belt off. There's not much room to move in there. It came off eventually without killing something else

You don't need circlip pliers to get the filter out, I used a sharp nail and bent the circlip to the point where I could get a small pair of needle-nosed pliers to rip the circlip the rest of the way out. If you're pulling the filter out for good, you won't be needing the circlip after doing this.

The filter just dropped out from there.

Now I'm glad that I did this because the filter was almost completely blocked. I'm praying that the turbo wasn't starved of oil.

I have owned many turbocharged cars in the past and this stupid filter was never an issue; I've never had a turbo fail on me without the filter. As others have said it should have probably been removed after the first or second service, third service at the outside.

Recommendation: Get rid of it if you haven't already, seriously.

Lessons learned: You really can't do this without decent tools. And I'm kicking myself I didn't remove the POS earlier...

Tools required:

• One 15/16 inch spanner, cut in half
  
• A ratchet (3/8 or 1/2 inch drive)
  
• A few different length extension bars
  
• A large spark plug socket
  
• A deep 15/16 inch socket
  
• A long sharp nail to remove the circlip
  
• Small needle-nosed pliers like the ones jewelers use
  

The filter is really tiny; I really would like to tear up the engineering degree of whoever decided that the filter should be left in place.

[20pounds]

I took mine out yesterday not to hard. 90k k,s on it and I couldnt see daylight through it just hope it aint done damage to the turbo bearing.. done a full service in the process including tighting the bolts around the turbo and manifold some were loose again.. checked the play in the turbo bearing and it has a little movement up and down and in and out buy nothing is rubbing on the housing.. how much play should there be on the bearing anyway.. anyone????

[Wenier]

Just did mine 30mins ago. Job took about 30mins total to complete. I removed the airbox and line to the crossover so plenty of room to play in and happen to have a pair of japenese nutfukers that on full extension were perfect for the job (all my spanners were no good). I have a BF2 ute just coming up 35k on the clock and light could hardly pass through this stupid little filter so it was blocking some flow for sure. So it is now removed, as mentioned earlier if the oil after the main filter is good enough for my crank bearings and so forth its good enough for the turbo.

I was almost beaten by the length of my wrench for undoing the union that contains the filter as austcro mention but I just managed to get it.

[DaKing]

Removed the screen last night and did full service - air filter, oil filter and Penrite SIN 15-40 synthetic oil. All up a bit of a bugger of a job to do but cetainly in the realms of normal people.

I followed the instructions in first post and didn't need to cut down my 24mm spanner and didn't need a long 24mm socket to get the screen holder from the block - just patiently used 24mm open ender with 24mm ring on other end. Fiddly but can be done with 1 x large spark plug socket (rubber removed), 1 x 24mm socket, 1 x 24mm open-ender/ring-ender and lots of patience. I got the patience by promising myself a beer if I didn't lose my temper at any time doing the job!

Removed air box and oil filter to get access.

Threw the screen in the bin.

All happy now with some peace of mind that the turbo is getting plenty of good oil.

btw - the screen was getting pretty blcked. Car has done 80K's

[nathen]

think I will also be doing thisnext oil change

[bjcrown]

Hmmm I think in my next oil change I'll be removing the turbo oil screen/filter.

While I'm at it, I'll replace the turbo oil supply tube/pipe as a precaution.

The people you have done this, is it a good idea to do this?

And what motor oil filters are you using? Is is the ford genuine filter for a BA MKII any good?

I've read elsewhere that these are crap just like the Ryco equivalent. People are using P/N: D9AZ6731A What do you guys think?

[DaKing]

BJ

I use Ryco cos they are easy to comeby and have a reasonable name. I change oil less than every 10,000klms so oil is always pretty good. Oh, I only use Penrite Synthetric atm but may change to a brand that is easier to comeby - gotta travel to get Penrite.

I didn't change the pipe as I guessed it was a little bigger that the screnn and should be ok given clean oil regularly changed - where do you stop I suppose?

Any way - do the screen as soon as you can as this is wot will cause the turbo to blow.

You may wanna lube the Turbo Actuatiuon Solenoid while you are at it - made va small difference in mine and car now goes like the clappers from stand still. Yeh !!! :-)

Kenny