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Boost Solenoid Maintenance


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  • Ford Nub
  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 7m 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast

I wouldnt have a clue. It has an after market intercooler , brakes ,growler induction and the actuator looks newer than everything else under there, All this was there before I bought it.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Better give you the usual advice and say take it to a dyno so they can log AFRs and other bits and pieces. Fun might not last long otherwise!

Might have been done on the cheap by previous owner and not custom tuned. Some get away with it though.

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  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
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  • Member For: 15y 10m 27d
  • Gender: Male

are you sure it now stops boosting at 10psi, or will it go higher if you keep the boot in? I'm assuming you have a boost gauge.

normally with any boost control solenoid system the actuator is rated to the lowest boost you run, and the solenoid 'tricks' it into allowing higher boost. So if you ran only 5psi before, I'd be guessing its a 5psi actuator.

perhaps the car was modified previously but returned to a stock tune? what colour are the injectors?

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

I mean without having the car's ECU fiddled (custom tuned) after fitting the parts.

Knowing the brand of mods done is always good though, helps compare results. Your intercooler could be a monza which are barely an improvement (so I read) or a top quality one like Process West/Plasmaman/Nizpro. It will affect results a fair bit and reliability somewhat.

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  • Ford Nub
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  • Member For: 13y 7m 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast

Jc807 the boost hits 10 and stops there no matter how hard I push (yes boost gauge fitted).The injectors are a dark blue.steveR, I am not sure on the brand of the intercooler it covers most of the radiator and looks like the stock pipe work is still fitted. So if the ECU isnt modded I could get overboost,that doesnt seem to be a problem as it holds steady at 10psi

Before the hose from the front of the turbo went straight to the actuator bypassing the soleniod. has this some how limited the operation of the actuator?

Edited by Gasman
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  • Ford Nub
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  • Member For: 13y 7m 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast

Ok I went down the highway this morning and gave it everything. It actually boosted to 15psi and tapered back to 10psi. I was at 200kph before I knew it. The boost came on real strong at around 3000rpm.

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 13y 6m 3d

Hey guys I did this today and you can definately feel the difference in response, felt like a really cold night. The hose is a *beep* to get off but I gently levered it off using my pliers and the solinoid to get it started then it comes off pretty easy. My fg is only 25000k old and the difference is still noticeable.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Ok I went down the highway this morning and gave it everything. It actually boosted to 15psi and tapered back to 10psi. I was at 200kph before I knew it. The boost came on real strong at around 3000rpm.

Your private highway :)

PS at least get to a dyno man!! If not a tuner who knows what's what.

94363d1204373264-v6-strong-modification-bent-rod.jpgscrp_0805_07_z+engine_failure+broken_rod.jpgcon-rods-broken-rod.jpg

MGA+Block+Hole.jpg

Edited by -SteveR-
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