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Help With Mods....


bjcrown

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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 5m
  • Gender: Male

I'd say you would be fine with just a pad shange if your already happy with the brakes stock..

edit with tune is good idea and will get you all the power you want for now :)

I have installed a rear swaybar only and am happy with the way it changed the cars handling, but doing both is the best option by far, and their not to expensive..

edit can change line pressures in the auto, much like a shift kit, and with a trans cooler it shouldn't take too much of a hammering.

like others have said the technical forum is a wealth of knowledge,have a flick through :spoton:

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  • Member For: 18y 11d

Iv seen good results with the dba slotted rotors and green stuff pads, the slots help with the initial brake application as they disperse brake dust from the rotor, when the rotors covered in dust it gives it a low co-efficient of friction and wont work as well. Plus they don't tend to warp as easy as the factory ones. Trans oil cooler would be a worthy investment even just for peace of mind for the trans. Swar bar would be a good idea. And as stated the plugs and stuff will be fine.

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  • Member For: 19y 1m 4d

Guys,

Thanks for your input. By they way the only non-stock item I use is the engine oil - Mobil1 5W-50 full synthetic.

Is this oil ok? What are your thoughts?

Looks like I'll be doing the following:

1. Custom Tune / Edit.

2. Front whiteline swaybar 27mm

not rears - see:

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...opic=26098&st=0

3. Probably still stick with K&N and not Typhoon CAI. That way I can revert back to stock quite easily. I might even stick with the factory filter only. Has anyone had any problems with the K&N filter?

4. Brakes / rotors: I'll replace the rotors to slotted DBA's if required. Until then I'll change the pads to Feredo Formula 2000 series. Can someone please advise that if I change the front pads do I need to change the rears to Feredo's at the same time or can I leave the stocks?

5. Spark Plugs: I have read (somewhere) CAPA recommend changing plugs and that NGK BKR6E is the way to go as they are gapped from factory to .8mm. Does anyone see any problems with these type of spark plugs?

6. Transmission: Does anyone know the cost to add a trans cooler?

Can someone please advise what type of Trans oil to use on a 4sp Auto?

I've heard people of strengthening their auto's. I don't want to spend too much money. Is this really required for just an cutome tune/edit only?

I am not looking to adding bigger injectors / valve springs etc... I'm sure I'll be stocked with power of a custome tune/edit.

Thanks heaps everyone.

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  • www.australianflag.org.au
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  • Member For: 19y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

Mate I know I am going to cop some flak for this, but here goes anyway.

For about $800.00, you can get a gold 98 powerchip. I have one on my BA MKII manual. Have had my car dynoed and RDP, and the AFR were great, 219.8 rwkw, with excellent drivability. The only problem is, if you end up getting the Mod bug, you cannot get more unless you then fork out more and go down the edit route. That takes care of power.

Brakes, Next year I am going to see Ferntree autosalvage, and buy there BF Calipors, pads and largerv slotted rotors for $650.00, I will change there rear rotors to slotted, but only for asthetics. Will change paids to PBR Reds when needed. Brakes taken care off.

Handling, I have whiteline sway bars front and rear. They are an excellent modification,,and make an amazing amount of difference. Should cost about $350.00 to $400.00 fitted. Handling taken care off.

Mate, for some decent mods that wont cost the earth, this is what I suggest.

Good luck with your decision making, and happy motoring.

Scotty

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  • Member For: 19y 3m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: brisbane
Mate I know I am going to cop some flak for this, but here goes anyway.

For about $800.00, you can get a gold 98 powerchip. I have one on my BA MKII manual. Have had my car dynoed and RDP, and the AFR were great, 219.8 rwkw, with excellent drivability. The only problem is, if you end up getting the Mod bug, you cannot get more unless you then fork out more and go down the edit route. That takes care of power.

Brakes, Next year I am going to see Ferntree autosalvage, and buy there BF Calipors, pads and largerv slotted rotors for $650.00, I will change there rear rotors to slotted, but only for asthetics. Will change paids to PBR Reds when needed. Brakes taken care off.

Handling, I have whiteline sway bars front and rear. They are an excellent modification,,and make an amazing amount of difference. Should cost about $350.00 to $400.00 fitted. Handling taken care off.

Mate, for some decent mods that wont cost the earth, this is what I suggest.

Good luck with your decision making, and happy motoring.

Scotty

I have to say I give thumbs up to the sway bars, ive been in scottys and its amazing how well it handles the mountains even with the 17s on, just awsome....

about your power mods ect, ive always said unless you have to the money there to rebuild you motor or gear box or whatever dont do mods....but you just have to way it up..... oh lol and once you get teh mods bug well it doesnt stop :spoton:

have fun

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  • 2 months later...
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  • Member For: 18y 9m 1d
  • Location: Perth

hey guys,

The company powerchip selling a $800 product called the 98 gold upgrade destroyed my BA 03 XR6T engine. If my expensive mistake 12 months ago can avoid someone else doing the same please don't do it. Go to a recommended and proven tuner like HPF or Nizpro instead.

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