Hybrid Cooler Installed

[ExAreSix]

Thought I'd post up my Hybrid cooler install and show how I went about doing the plumbing.

I brought the Hybrid cooler kit with plans to install it as per the instructions. But then when I sat down and looked at it, I realized I'd be adding another meter plus to the already too lengthy factory plumbing, and that the intercooler's inlet and outlet were just perfect for a custom plumbing job. So, the thinking began.

The intake side wouldn't be a problem. The IC intake would be in the same place as the factory cooler. Use the factory piping from the turbo to the cooler. Just had to step it up from 2.5 inch to the 3 inch inlet of the cooler. Done.

Looking at the kit, I thought to myself I may be able to use the piping supplied to dodgy it all up. Swap the battery and intake over then I'd just have to get the plumbing to the throttle body. To do this I thought I'd use a NA intake resonator. Sourced one nice and cheap on the Ford Forums. I had a brass fitting tapped into the intake resonator for the BOV to mount to. Then I made some modifications of my own to get the joiner on, then onto the T/B. I just used the factory rubber joiner and clamps.

Also sourced an AVO airbox kit for the drivers side (Thanks DMN 23Q). Got given a battery tray for the passenger side (Thanks Kent) and I was just about set.

3 inch to 2.5 inch reducer and 2.5 inch 180 degree bend from the kit would come off the IC outlet and under the headlight, coming out in front of the battery. Like so:

Then I'd need a 90 degree bend to meet the 2.5 inch piping from the kit, it would bend up over the battery and up to the flexi pipe. (as it turned out, I used a 3 inch 45 degree bend) Like so:

Then step up the 3 inch into the flexi pipe, then into the intake resonator.

In my mind it all fitted together perfect. Whether it would in practice was to be seen. (At this time the car was at the paintshop getting the front bar and bonnet fitted and painted, so I couldn't start work on it)

So, while waiting for the car to come back I thought Instead of using the 2 1/2 inch plumbing that came with the kit, I may as well do it in 3 inch. Plan B.

So, sourced some 3 inch stainless and some silicon joiners. This was the result,

Was just a dummy fit to see how it would all go. Looked promising. But joining it to the 2.5 inch pipe in front of the battery looked like a problem.

As it turned out, there just wasn't enough room in front of the battery to do it. So, back to plan A.

So, finally got the car back and started work. Took a while of cursing and much blood from nuckles was spilt. But, it all worked... JUST. I couldn't believe it. Just how I pictured it in my mind.

So, I mounted the boost solenoid to the pipe that went under the headlight... Like so:

Bought a metre length of pipe for the BOV and mounted it down under the coolant reservoir. A brass fitting will be tapped into the AVO intake pipe and the BOV will be plumbed back into it...

Then tightened all the clamps... and voila:

Then started it up... All sounded good. Took it for a strap. Went quite well, but something was amiss. And the intake sounded a lot noisier than I thought it would. Wait, that sounds like a leak. Turns out in my haste I failed to tighten the piping on the IC inlet. Front bar came back off, tighten and adjust. Then off I went again.

WOAH, boost aplenty. (running CAPA 8 psi generic, showing 10+ psi)

Then BOOF! Throttle body pipe blew off the intake resonator. I thought that might happen... So, cut an inch wide piece of 3 inch stainless and shoved into the outlet of the intake resonator, to give it some strength. (The clamps were just crushing the plastic, not giving a tight and secure seal. Hasn't blown off since.)

So, off I went again. BOOF!! Damnit I thought, same pipe has blown off, sh*t!!

Open the hood and the throttle body piping is fine. Then I look at the flexi hose...

Haha. Well, duh! Shoulda known that wouldn't be up to the task.

So, luckily had enough 2.5 inch and clamps left, came up with this:

The 3 inch stainless that feeds the intake resonator is also shoved into the end of it, providing strength for the clamps onto the plastic. From previous lessons learnt.

So anyway, that's where it stands. Plumbing done with just Silicon joiners, a foot of 3 inch stainless and the 2.5 inch aluminium pipes supplied with the cooler. Oh, and the iNA intake resonator.

How does it go?

With just,

- X-Force 3.5 inch exhaust (Full Turbo back system, fitted by myself)

- Hybrid Cooler and home job plumbing. (Fitted by myself)

- Iridium plugs gapped to .8mm (Fitted by myself)

- Edit with generic tunes.

8psi generic:

10psi generic:

Yes, I know they're lean. The 10psi tune was never loaded before the power run on the dyno, and never will be again.

The 8psi isn't too bad. Safe, just.

I'm moving to Sydney in a couple of weeks, so I'm waiting till I get down there to finish my work on the car, then get it tuned.

Things sitting waiting to go on,

- 3.5 inch metal cat

- Atomic Valve Springs

- Injectors

- Mal Woods Option 3 clutch

- RipShift

- Custom Tune

As it stands, it's looking very promising. Should make some good power when all put together.

Anyway, just thought I'd share my plumbing. Show another way of skinning the lag cat.

Cheers

Edited 11/12/06 06:11 AM by Turbo6man

[F6 UTE]

Nice job mate, well done

but eeek at those afr's.

I wouldn't even deem them 'just' safe.

[Paradoxx]

Even my AFRs are better than that

Nice thinking on the plumbing. Are you going to replace the NA resonator with a pipe? From other people's experiences I hear they tend to pop also... the plastic just isnt strong enough.

[ExAreSix]

Even my AFRs are better than that

Nice thinking on the plumbing. Are you going to replace the NA resonator with a pipe? From other people's experiences I hear they tend to pop also... the plastic just isnt strong enough.

←

I will, if what I've got fails. The only other person that I know of to try the NA intake resonator is 'macka'sxr6t'. (I know some NA boys on another forums who have done Turbo conversions with the same results as macka'sxr6t.)

The problem he had was the T/B join blowing off at 8psi. I've overcome this problem quite simply, and I'm running about 12psi through it without any movement.

Once it's tuned I hope to be running about the same boost, so pretty confident it'll cope. If not, then we all learn

[RAP1D]

Looks good, the plastic pipe should be fine as long as its not getting too hot... my volvo 850R had plastic IC pipes and they lasted years, until I took them off lol

high 13s man that's dangerously lean, atleast your intake temps arnt as hot with the bigger IC, but Id be flashing it back to stock until it gets tuned

Hows it feel on road?

[Fat-Tony]

So your still running that squashed pitiful pipe under the headlight from turbo to cooler?

If so, seems like a waste of time IMO

[saleen]

Is that flywheel kw?

300rwkw is where you want to be.

[Fat-Tony]

Is that flywheel kw?

300rwkw is where you want to be.

←

Your a dick Rob, how would you test flywheel KW on a dyno dynamics CHASSIS dyno. What he do pull the engine out and connect it up directly to the rollers

[Headsex]

So your still running that squashed pitiful pipe under the headlight from turbo to cooler?

If so, seems like a waste of time IMO

←

Actually, the pipe that goes under the headlight and battery tray is the intercooler return to the throttle body

the turbo pipe is rubber and runs down low, you can hardly see it

Dan

[Fat-Tony]

So your still running that squashed pitiful pipe under the headlight from turbo to cooler?

If so, seems like a waste of time IMO

←

Actually, the pipe that goes under the headlight and battery tray is the intercooler return to the throttle body

the turbo pipe is rubber and runs down low, you can hardly see it

Dan

←

Ok Dan the man, ive never pulled the ic pipe work apart that far so I wouldnt know which section it was in, seen it outside the car and that's how I know how sh*tful it is. Knowing this, means that the section is replaced with the above pipework

Edited 12/12/06 11:54 AM by Fat-Tony