DBOSS Faster than any BTA,XTC,Autotech, Nizpro and Tunehouse car Member 3,918 Member For: 21y 7m 6d Location: D SHIRE! Posted 04/12/06 04:39 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 04:39 AM I'd love to put an engine oil cooler on, but just where to put it when you have a hefty PWR I/C and a dedicated trans cooler hanging up the front - there just isnt enough real estate!!!I know Ian has one down the back with a fan etc, but it all seems a bit tricky!!!←Do a search Stealth Xr did one and its a really good setup fits in underneath the drivers side headlight, its not tested at the track yet but has made a noticeable difference on the road thoughCYA JEFF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XR06T Silver Donating Members 4,146 Member For: 19y 7m 6d Gender: Male Posted 04/12/06 04:47 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 04:47 AM could reducing under bonnet temps be as simple as removing the rubber seal from the back of the bonnet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F6 UTE - Track Bound EVO III - Member 3,367 Member For: 20y 1m 13d Gender: Male Location: Strapped in and holding on Posted 04/12/06 05:06 AM Author Share Posted 04/12/06 05:06 AM could reducing under bonnet temps be as simple as removing the rubber seal from the back of the bonnet?←I have tried this but didn't log underbonnet temps, only intake temps.. No decrease whatsoever, but it makes the rear of the bonnet flap around, and at speed could do some damage.. ?? I only have the thin Nizpro cooler, maybe some redirected airflow might do well under there.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZAP No boost, no bottle, just my foot on the throttle! Lifetime Members 7,935 Member For: 20y 11m 14d Gender: Male Location: Sydney Posted 04/12/06 05:07 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 05:07 AM Guys I have had the front bar off a few times and there is heaps of room behind the foglights.If you remove both foglights, you could put a trans cooler on one side and the oil cooler on the other. You would need to put some exit holes on the plastic inner guard, but it will mean you can hide it nicely. Remove the foglights and you have a large intake with pleanty of cool air.As for the removal of the rubber seal at the firewall, I think it is a good idea, but I remember reading somewhere that if you do this it can cause pressure problems under the bonnet. Apparently the seal creats a high pressure void under the bonnet and the heat escapes under the car. Removing the seal upsets this flow of air and can lead to overheating.I guess you could also try what the ricers do and put a few washers on the bonnet bolts to lift the bonnet up a few mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F6 UTE - Track Bound EVO III - Member 3,367 Member For: 20y 1m 13d Gender: Male Location: Strapped in and holding on Posted 04/12/06 05:14 AM Author Share Posted 04/12/06 05:14 AM I suppose the Ute and cooling system was engineered for 550nm and 270fwkws and as such probably works reasonably well in high ambient conditions.Allowing for a 15% engineering margin still doesn’t get us anywhere near what your running @ 750nm and 470fwkws so I suppose running a bit warm after some punishment is to be expected!!!! All in all I think these things are built tuff as nails and to take what you have dished out over the last 70k is testament to that! Steve is right it would not be out of place in the Ford Museum. Mmm I wounder how I would go in the dinosaur section? ←lol.. I don't 'flog' the car ( Not that you implied that ).. To me there's a distinct difference between 'flogging' a car and driving it hard..One anyone can do, and the other takes a bit of decorum and 'finess' to extract the best from the car without venturing into wasted energy...... Agreed, with what it has put up with, it's a credit to FoMoCo considering the amount of factory parts ( The absolute majority of the vehicle ) retained.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F6 UTE - Track Bound EVO III - Member 3,367 Member For: 20y 1m 13d Gender: Male Location: Strapped in and holding on Posted 04/12/06 05:16 AM Author Share Posted 04/12/06 05:16 AM I guess you could also try what the ricers do and put a few washers on the bonnet bolts to lift the bonnet up a few mm.←Or remove the front rubber seal??Anything that can be done for track days etc that will help is a good thing, wouldn't make it a permanent arrangement though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOLDIE My new toy Lifetime Members 5,344 Member For: 21y 9m 6d Gender: Male Location: stanthorpe wine capital of qld. Posted 04/12/06 05:35 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 05:35 AM As most know I have the repliclar el gt bonnt vents fitted to mine but it still did not do anything to the cooler of the engine when driven hard.It lets a lot of hot air out at the traffic lights.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo6man Lifetime Members 4,084 Member For: 22y 3m 18d Gender: Male Location: South Coast NSW Posted 04/12/06 06:16 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 06:16 AM 937> Actually there is another even more important area where dissipation of engine heat occurs - up to 1/3 of it. That's the exhaust system. And there is also radiated heat directly from the engine itself into the engine bay.F6ute> Some people have already touched on the causes of your overheating. But here's the full list...1/ The standard radiator and cooling system is designed for standard power only. If you increase power you must increase cooling capacity accordingly.2/ The capacity of the standard radiator takes into account the AC condensor and the IC which are placed in front of it and get the first benefit of airflow. If the IC is increased in efficiency (and more heat is dissipated into the airstream) the radiator will lose some of it's effectiveness. Similarly if a transmission cooler is placed in front of it.3/ If boost is increased this places more heat EVERYWHERE in the cooling systems of the vehicle - the radiated heat from the engine, the heat into the oil, the heat into the water jackets and heat into the exhaust. As you try to accommodate this increase in heat from one area you must be aware of not increasing the heat into another - as in the IC example above.When I first turboed my ZL I had some concerms about how to control the heat. I attacked the issue in two ways ...Firstly I used a top mount IC instead of one in front of the radiator - by doing this I may have limited to some extent the maximum efficiency of the IC but it ensured that at no time was any superheated air passed over my radiator. This way I was able to achieve the same power run after run without suffering heat sink at all - the biggest killer of turbo performance.Secondly I have a positive displacement exhaust air fan which operates at all times to move air from the engine bay to the atmosphere (through the OSF guard into the rear of the front wheel well.)The engine can operate all day at full boost and the water temp stays constant. However the oil temp does increase slightly but never to a point where it can effect the oils's integrity. I've never found the need to fit an oil cooler but if I ever did it would NOT be placed in front of the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hsv eater Member 21 Member For: 18y 8m 15d Posted 04/12/06 06:56 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 06:56 AM Guys I have had the front bar off a few times and there is heaps of room behind the foglights.If you remove both foglights, you could put a trans cooler on one side and the oil cooler on the other. You would need to put some exit holes on the plastic inner guard, but it will mean you can hide it nicely. Remove the foglights and you have a large intake with pleanty of cool air.As for the removal of the rubber seal at the firewall, I think it is a good idea, but I remember reading somewhere that if you do this it can cause pressure problems under the bonnet. Apparently the seal creats a high pressure void under the bonnet and the heat escapes under the car. Removing the seal upsets this flow of air and can lead to overheating.I guess you could also try what the ricers do and put a few washers on the bonnet bolts to lift the bonnet up a few mm.←isnt putting washers on the bonnet same as removing the back rubber seal? you are playing with that high pressure void under the hood? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberley Scott www.australianflag.org.au Donating Members 6,763 Member For: 19y 6m 11d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 04/12/06 06:58 AM Share Posted 04/12/06 06:58 AM Awesome post.To Keep it really simple, what would your cooling solution be? As I dont rekon a top mount IC, would be really feasable on these things. Maybe Geeas car.Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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