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Manual Bleeder Offers Cheap Performance


xlnt6

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Well some time ago I upgraded the stock turbo for a larger compressor unit and while the power goal was pretty much achieved, the resultant turbo lag was a bit of a downside. Not that it was bad, just it wasn’t as good as the factory turbo. For more info on my original thread see here:

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...opic=26190&st=0

So I ended up trying one of cheap bleeds on ebay which cost the princely sum of $30 delivered. It is said to improve spool up time, cause its meant to be different from the old style bleeds I used to play around with years ago. Yeah I was sceptical too !!!

So while I was at the recent Nizpro dyno day I did a test to see what the difference in boost response was and certainly by the seat of the pants it felt much more responsive. Well after I got the data from the dyno I graphed up the results in excel and well …. see for yourself !!!! Basically it boosts much earlier than either the upgraded turbo or stock turbo alone and the peak boost now comes in at the same RPM as the stock turbo. Hello Dolly, the change in mid range torque is nice, real nice.

I figure the advantage for my configuration is probably more than can be realised in a stock turbo (no bleed) vs stock turbo (with bleed), but for $30 in conjunction with a suitable tune it should be worth the effort. By the way the back to back upgraded turbo with bleed vs upgraded turbo no bleed were done several months apart but without any change in tuning.

When trying to run high boost the stock wastegate solenoid causes some dramas (it’s difficult to control boost over about 20 psi). Basically the duty cycle is maxed out in edit, but no more boost is realised. This bleed didn’t seem to help that problem, which tends to make sense as the limitation is more to do with the turbine flow capability.

Now I guess an electronic boost controller will work at least as well, but for $30 you can’t go wrong.

Anyway have a play, and let me know how you go. Caveat Emptor (I offer no guarantees against engine damage if you are stupid …. Obviously !!!!)

Cheers

Robin.

post-5353-1163322962_thumb.jpg

Boost_Bleed.pdf

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All though it wouldnt be anodised if you wanted one cheaper still you could get one of our tee pieces: http://www.rycohydraulics.com/AdaptorDetail.aspx?id=21 a couple of hose adaptors and a nut and bolt.

probable cost about $5 but it wouldnt be chrome and anodised.

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All though it wouldnt be anodised if you wanted one cheaper still you could get one of our tee pieces: http://www.rycohydraulics.com/AdaptorDetail.aspx?id=21 a couple of hose adaptors and a nut and bolt.

probable cost about $5 but it wouldnt be chrome and anodised.

Bleed valves are more than just a screw... Though the one xlnt6 has appears to be just that... :blink:

Primitive, but it obviously works.

"The boost valve works using a spring and check ball, by screwing the adjusting screw into the boost controller you put more pressure on the spring which reduces the amount of airflow through the boost controller and into the boost controller port. Less airflow means less pressure will be assisting the spring to keep the wastegate plunger shut."

I've been thinking about whether to try one out myself. You've made up my mind. But I think I'll spend a little more and source a Turbosmart jobbie.

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Bleed valves are more than just a screw... Though the one xlnt6 has appears to be just that... 

Primitive, but it obviously works.

Nope, it is not just a simple bleed, according to the manufacturer, Turbotech.

Heres' some info from them "PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS NOT JUST A BLEED VALVE – This is a quality engineered precision instrument for fine tuning boost pressure. Some backyard mechanics like to think that a bleed valve is a ‘boost control valve’, however, all a bleed valve does is restrict pressure flow. This is NOT controlling boost pressure as it is not a one way valve, a bleed valve allows pressure flow both ways and out to atmosphere. They allow back pressure which hinders fast spool up and causes excessive turbo lag because much of the unused pressure gets sucked back toward the turbo during negative boost and tries to slow down the turbine- much like having someone pulling on your shirt while trying to run. This problem creates what is known as TURBO LAG, a condition where bleed valves or mass produced and badly engineered boost controllers can’t control the boost, which can and will cause expensive damage to your engine- avoid this at all costs. "

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How would I go about fiting one of these bleed values?

It just goes in-line with the wastegate vacuum hose. Normally the vacuum line goes from the boost control solenoid to the wastegate actuator. All you need is another piece of vacuum tube, ie disconnect the hose from the solenoid (the one going to the wastegate, not the turbo compressor cover) at the solenoid end, connect it to valve outlet, then add another piece of tube from the valve inlet back to the solenoid. Instructions are supplied with the unit as well.

Cheers

Robin.

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How would I go about fiting one of these bleed values?

It just goes in-line with the wastegate vacuum hose. Normally the vacuum line goes from the boost control solenoid to the wastegate actuator. All you need is another piece of vacuum tube, ie disconnect the hose from the solenoid (the one going to the wastegate, not the turbo compressor cover) at the solenoid end, connect it to valve outlet, then add another piece of tube from the valve inlet back to the solenoid. Instructions are supplied with the unit as well.

Cheers

Robin.

Cheers Robin I might give this ago do you have the link to the ebay site with

the bleed I cant seem to find it.

Carlos. :stupid:

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Cheers Robin I might give this ago do you have the link to the ebay site with

the bleed I cant seem to find it.

Carlos, ebay links are a no no, but just use the ebay search "boost controller".

Cheers

Robin.

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