Bf Auto Vs Manual Transmission

[Turbo6man]

Well I resisted as long as I could ...

The ZF is the best auto ever put into a Ford, or a lot of other cars for that matter.

The driving experience is far and away better than any other auto I've ever driven.

Yes, finally we have an auto that will change gears quicker than a manual and, in a turbo car will allow the engine to hold full boost on upshifts. If I was ONLY interested in getting the fastest car for the first 400m of straight road I would buy a 6-speed auto turboed car (like a BF XR6T or Typhoon).

However where I do most of my driving there are bends, lots of bends, and I like driving swiftly and in total control of what gear I am in AND WHEN. The ZF is still left wanting on fast uphill and fast downhill approaches under heavy braking into slow corners. And there was a (ever so slight) delay in picking up the throttle on exit of said corners. Simply put, as good as the ZF is, it will still never be equal to a manual in the conditions where it REALLY matters.

I really like driving FOR FUN - it will always be a manual for me because that is where I get most fun - total control over all things. No automatic rain-sensing windscreen wipers for me - forfuksake I even hate self-cancelling indicators!

[tab]

This really hurts, but

If I drove to work through mountainous ranges every day manual would be the choice

[Mildman]

  F6 UTE said:

There's your problem right there.

You over rev.

The end of 2nd gear is at 80-85kph. Not 100kph.

I can flat change 2nd - 3rd and not get any engine over rev by dropping shift points, and I also don't get out of peak torque.  ( I also don't have an in-gear limiter set either ) The F6 clutch helps this a great deal too.

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I went for a drive checking the speed and revs in changes. I assume the FPV diff ratio is different as 80-85 kph for me is 4500rpm. If I short shift at 4500rpm it's pretty dissapointing way to far from peak power. I must admit the gearbox shifts quite easily into first at that rpm, but not quite as sastisfying as shift whilst under some serious (stock) boost.

I'll have to drive an F6 one day to see what you mean.

For me in stock form peak power is 245kW @ 5350rpm - so I'd need to be above this on shifting gears to make the most of the drivetrain.

Edited 25/10/06 10:24 AM by Mildman

[F6 UTE]

  Mildman said:

  F6 UTE said:

There's your problem right there.

You over rev.

The end of 2nd gear is at 80-85kph. Not 100kph.

I can flat change 2nd - 3rd and not get any engine over rev by dropping shift points, and I also don't get out of peak torque.  ( I also don't have an in-gear limiter set either ) The F6 clutch helps this a great deal too.

←

I went for a drive checking the speed and revs in changes. I assume the FPV diff ratio is different as 80-85 kph for me is 4500rpm. If I short shift at 4500rpm it's pretty dissapointing way to far from peak power. I must admit the gearbox shifts quite easily into first at that rpm, but not quite as sastisfying as shift whilst under some serious (stock) boost.

I'll have to drive an F6 one day to see what you mean.

For me in stock form peak power is 245kW @ 5350rpm - so I'd need to be above this on shifting gears to make the most of the drivetrain.

←

It feels slower, because you are moving more smoothly

You feel as though you go quicker when you rev, because the car looses momentum, and when you upshift, off she goes again..

It's deceiving, but trust me..

I use 4500rpm as an example. Shift AT peak torque. You will have to get on a dyno to find that on your car..

I promise it's better..

[Kimberley Scott]

F6 Ute

I have been giving this some thought. I have been thinking about putting a digital tacho? shift light in one of the hole of the tripod when it all comes to fruition.

I am thinking of setting the shift light to say 300 rpm below peak tourque, so I can shift at the optimal time.

Add in a short shifter, and I think it will work well

Would be nice thought o have a double light, say blue to shift and orange just before redline.

Scotty

[Mildman]

So peak torque? Not peak horsepower?

Because technically peak torque in a stocker BF is 480Nm @ 2000rpm - so I wouldn't shift there obviously....

[SavageF6]

  Mildman said:

Also forget the notion that the manual has less drive train loss than the auto....it doesn't anymore. With torque lockup the auto looses less in the drivetrain than the manual.

Big thread

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In lockup sure, but WOT is a different story.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Yes peak torque is a 2000 through to 4500 rpm....then it starts to drop off. What F6_ute is saying is correct. but you would need to put the car on a dyno and find out when torque drops off in YOUR car because there all different...

[Mildman]

But horsepower continues to rise after torque starts dropping off, and hp means acceleration right?

I have always thought changing after the hp peak gave maximum acceleration.

I'll have to go down the 1/4 and see for myself - as all the motor racing you watch in TV the change pretty much at the rev limiter, they don't short shift when they want to accelerate as quickly as possible.

[ZAP]

Torque= push

HP= the noise

I got 2/10th's over the 1/4 by chaning at 5,000rpm when before I was chaning at 5,800rpm.

F6 is correct in what he is saying, you want to keep the car at the top of the torque curve