Torque

[LightningXR6T]

What is the maximum torque the auto's in the BA's have been designed to handle?

[Trough Lolly]

not alot!

[BOZZTURBO]

not a lot , ask envy-t his auto is

[jordak]

My 2003 auto has been running around with about 750nm of torque for over a year and the auto was given a clean bill of health as recent as a month ago.

Only trans mods are a decent size cooler and an electronic shift kit (provides instant shifts when wanting to keep the foot flat through all shifts).

Once in gear I don't believe this level of torque is an issue however flat to the floor up a hill with three people in the car is a different story.

What the magic number is I'm not sure but I think Marcus and others that have had failures would have more torque than this, without even a cooler, as well as beating up on the car moreso than I do.

[LightningXR6T]

Thanx Jordak. So if you let the car get going before you stick the boot in, it would help.

What brand of shift kit do you have?

Edited 11/10/06 04:50 AM by LightningXR6T

[bugster70]

I'm not sure that anybody would be able to come up with an absolutely definitive number for you. IMHO, the way you drive is far more important than the amount of torque anyway, to a point of course. I mean, if your car is putting out 700Nm of torque but you thrash it regularly, lots of burnouts, kickdowns to 1st gear at 40km/h, etc, etc, I'd feel certain that your box would die a LOT quicker than the guy with 800Nm of torque who drives really conservatively and only puts the boot in occasionally.

As jordak has also said, there are other factors such as whether you have a tranny cooler, what type of oil you're running, etc.

From a power perspective, I think a lot of people reckon the 280rwkw mark to be about the limit of a stock 4 speed auto, but again this would be very dependant on the way you drive the car. And a tranny cooler is pretty much a 'must' at that power level anyway. Hope that helps a bit?

EDIT - Firming up the shift via Edit is also supposed to help, although I have heard that the only 'proper' way to do this is by modding your valve body? And, no offecne to jordak, I think the Shiftkit results in a VERY firm shift, but if you can live with that, then why not?!

[ZAP]

The stock 4spd is 450nm

The stock ZF6sp is 600nm

These are factory figures

[LightningXR6T]

Thanx guys, all good food for thought. My T has only done 1200k's this year (yes 1200k's) and when I do drive it, I only give it a squirt now and again, no burnouts, no going around corners with both feet on the load pedal. I bought it for the appearance aswell, hence why I've put BF GT body kit on it. Thanx again!

[jordak]

  LightningXR6T said:

Thanx Jordak. So if you let the car get going before you stick the boot in, it would help.

Yes!

What brand of shift kit do you have?

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Shiftkit is an electonic one from Shiftkits Australia for $70. Takes about an hour to install yourself.

As Bugster has said the shifts become very firm (almost instant) and as such are absolutely no good for driving normally. This is why the kit comes with a switch (which I've positioned under the tissue box holder) which allows you to flick to the firm shifts when required I.e drags / traffic lights / spirited drive.

Under full acceleration the shifts become super smooth whilst at the same time minimising the risk of slippage between changes.

Shiftkits

[Trough Lolly]

  LightningXR6T said:

Thanx guys, all good food for thought. My T has only done 1200k's this year (yes 1200k's) and when I do drive it, I only give it a squirt now and again, no burnouts, no going around corners with both feet on the load pedal. I bought it for the appearance aswell, hence why I've put BF GT body kit on it. Thanx again!

←

if your worried about it put in some Castrol Transmax Z oil and a decent size trans cooler. your auto will love u for it